Double Bass NS EUB megathread

[FMartin]

While my gut tells me to go for the full-scale instrument if possible [...]
For those of you who double on BG and EUB - especially those who started on 34-inch scale BG - how easy/difficult was it to become comfortable with the longer scale? How much time did that process take?

I'd say go for the 41"

As for your second question, I guess that it's different for every player, but anyway it's always directly related to the number of playing hours. Approaching it with a "just do it" attitude surely helps.

I think you should get some lessons with a double bass teacher.

The tone you get out of the instrument is dependant on whether you approach it more like a double or a bass guitar.

+1

I'd just add this: besides your lessons, taking time to 'explore' your new instrument is a sure bet.

Try some different models and share your thoughts once you take the plunge. peace,
R

+1 One of the most interesting things abou EUB is the multiplicity of models around. I've found that those differences can be really big.

Once you get comfortable on the EUB, you should be able to switch back and forth without too much trouble. I double, and I can go between upright, EUB and EB pretty seemlessly. It's just a matter of being comfortable on each

+1
I've just started to play again the EBG last year, after over a decade of not even being in possession of one, and it surprised me how quick I was able to pick back a good deal of what I left behind. I think the 'physical' aspect of playing double bass (acoustic double bass, I mean) can keep your hands well above the level of physical demand of EBG (I'm talking in very general terms here). So I think you shouldn't worry about doubling, it most probably won't be difficult at all for you, once you are on track with your EUB.

No interest in the acoustic upright. I want to stick to electric bass guitar, learn EUB - and pick up a Chapman Stick as well. That should keep me busy...

I bet it should!

Best luck, and keep us posted on your progress!

 

[FMartin]

Man, I love this multi-quote thing...

 

[NickyBass]

Thanks for the replies...

Yes, I can see the benefit of lessons. Since I'm self-taught on the bass guitar, lessons don't automatically occur to me. But upright bass is a whole other species of animal, so I reckon it would help to speed up my learning curve and get good and solid on technique, at the very least.

No interest in the acoustic upright. I want to stick to electric bass guitar, learn EUB - and pick up a Chapman Stick as well. That should keep me busy...

MM

Given your desires, I think an NS is the EUB for you. I think that it is a unique instrument that is capable of a wide array of tone. I view it as a different instrument than the EB and UB--with it's own voice and own set of benefits/limitations/etc. String choice is going to be a fun (and expensive) journey.

The reason that lessons were mentioned is that it is easy to develop bad habits---and it takes years to unlearn. Even a few lessons with a good teacher will be beneficial.

 

[Mystic Michael]

Given your desires, I think an NS is the EUB for you. I think that it is a unique instrument that is capable of a wide array of tone. I view it as a different instrument than the EB and UB--with it's own voice and own set of benefits/limitations/etc.

Good to know. Apparently my instincts are on-target.

Yes, I definitely mean to approach the EUB on its own terms, without trying to "make" it into something it is not, i.e. a substitute for an acoustic double bass, a "different" kind of bass guitar, etc.

My attraction to the instrument is based on its unique characteristics, its unique electric voice and its feel - in order to supplement the things I'm able to do already - not to try to substitute for them...

MM

 

[bonarabraham]

Hi
GrowlerBox..


thanks for the info and wil keep in mind for the spirocore.


Cheers

 

[Mystic Michael]

I'd say go for the 41"...

I think the 'physical' aspect of playing double bass (acoustic double bass, I mean) can keep your hands well above the level of physical demand of EBG (I'm talking in very general terms here). So I think you shouldn't worry about doubling, it most probably won't be difficult at all for you, once you are on track with your EUB.

Given your desires, I think an NS is the EUB for you. I think that it is a unique instrument that is capable of a wide array of tone. I view it as a different instrument than the EB and UB--with it's own voice and own set of benefits/limitations/etc. String choice is going to be a fun (and expensive) journey.

OK, so this afternoon I dropped by David Gage's shop in lower Manhattan - since I was in the neighborhood on some personal business anyway. Met for about 30 minutes with one of their sales guys, who happened to have a floor model of the CR4M out for me to play.

I have to say, I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable it felt. Of course, I hardly have any kind of handle on the 41+ inch scale just yet. But I was already able to get a decent tone on the thing, And other than the challenge of adapting to the new (and much longer) scale, the instrument as a whole felt quite natural to me.

The sales guy will be checking current availability of EUBs at NS Design, and will be providing me with a street price for a CR5M in slate gray. He also agreed to recommend a few teachers who have experience on five-string bass guitar as well EUB, who could help me make a smooth transition to EUB, as well as learn good technique right from the start.

That's one of the beauties of living in New York - no shortage of good musicians / good music teachers here...

MM

 

[babebambi]

Thanks for the help guys.


Imaginary Friend : "you are welcome"

 

[Hobby]

Is there any difference in neckshape/size/thickness between Ns WAW and
NS CR-M4 ?

If so, what/how?

I'm thinkin' of shift/upgrade my NS WAW (an about tree years old/ firste generation) to a used NS CR-M4

 

[coyoteboy]

Just a quick note, got a set of the stock flats back on and I really like!! Definitely snarly! And the B string actually works now. Now I just need to rehair the bow

 

[GrowlerBox]

Just took delivery of a pre-owned CR4M.

Can anybody please tell me how to adjust the height of the magnetic pick-up?

Hey there -- just saw this query (and your later post - now, now). In case you haven't worked it out in the interim, you'll see that each magnetic pickup has a smaller cylinder just below it with a small hex-key hole in it. Insert appropriate hex-key (I can't remember the size offhand), turn counter-clockwise -- this should loosen the adjacent pickup, which can be raised or lowered simply by grabbing it and pulling/pushing. While holding at the desired height, tighten the hex bolt and voila.

Just in case you also want to adjust the bridge, there are 2 hex-key holes in the back of the instrument corresponding to either end of the bridge -- just turn the key (a different size, just to keep it interesting) back and forth to raise and lower one end of the bridge.

The NS design website has pdf format instructions available.

Take it easy.

 

[Hobby]

I'm about to buy a used NS CR-4M (bought new in ca 2006) as I've got here to test
and... I really like it but there is some string buzz and when I
checked the neck relief there was a bit "back bow" so i checked the
trussrod but it was fully losen (all the way counterclockwise)and I
guess it just works "one way". (anyone who knows)

Is theere any other solution than to let a luthier sand down the
fretboard, then?

Wish radius has the NS CR-4M fretboard?

Can you recomend any "stuff" (oil or cleaning essence for ex.) to "refine" the (amber) finish?

 

[babebambi]

Thanks!

Hey there -- just saw this query (and your later post - now, now). In case you haven't worked it out in the interim, you'll see that each magnetic pickup has a smaller cylinder just below it with a small hex-key hole in it. Insert appropriate hex-key (I can't remember the size offhand), turn counter-clockwise -- this should loosen the adjacent pickup, which can be raised or lowered simply by grabbing it and pulling/pushing. While holding at the desired height, tighten the hex bolt and voila.

Just in case you also want to adjust the bridge, there are 2 hex-key holes in the back of the instrument corresponding to either end of the bridge -- just turn the key (a different size, just to keep it interesting) back and forth to raise and lower one end of the bridge.

The NS design website has pdf format instructions available.

Take it easy.

 

[Pat Harris]

I purchased a NS CR4M. The stock strings on it are the NS Light gauge strings. I like the sound of them, but I am wondering if NS makes any medium or heavy gauge strings for their EUB? I haven't been able to find anything other than light gauge.

I tried some worn in Helicore Pizz strings, and while I enjoyed the higher tension under my fingers, I didn't care for the sound. I know that D'addario and NS have a joint helicore string. Does anyone have any experience with these?

Ideally, I think I'd just like to get some NS medium or heavy gauge strings.

Thanks,
Pat

 

[MNAirHead]

I'm not qualified to debate strings.. do own a NS.. big upgrade with $$$$ strings.

Tim

I purchased a NS CR4M. The stock strings on it are the NS Light gauge strings. I like the sound of them, but I am wondering if NS makes any medium or heavy gauge strings for their EUB? I haven't been able to find anything other than light gauge.

I tried some worn in Helicore Pizz strings, and while I enjoyed the higher tension under my fingers, I didn't care for the sound. I know that D'addario and NS have a joint helicore string. Does anyone have any experience with these?

Ideally, I think I'd just like to get some NS medium or heavy gauge strings.

Thanks,
Pat

 

[Francois Blais]

I purchased a NS CR4M. The stock strings on it are the NS Light gauge strings. I like the sound of them, but I am wondering if NS makes any medium or heavy gauge strings for their EUB?

Invalid Link Removed

 

[Pat Harris]

Thanks for the link Francois. Do you have any personal experience with the D'Addario/NS strings? I ask only because I did not like the sound of my D'Addario Helicores on the CR4M, and I'm wondering if this is a totally different type of string, or basically the same thing with a shorter length?

 

[Francois Blais]

Thanks for the link Francois. Do you have any personal experience with the D'Addario/NS strings? I ask only because I did not like the sound of my D'Addario Helicores on the CR4M, and I'm wondering if this is a totally different type of string, or basically the same thing with a shorter length?

No sorry.
Given their very different price, I'd expect them to use a different construction though.
Which type of Helicore did you try? (arco, hybrid, pizzicato)

 

[Pat Harris]

I used a previously retired set of Helicore Medium Pizz strings on the NS. They were "ok" at best, but made the instrument sound like a P-bass. If I was in a Head Hunters tribute band, it would have been perfect, but it's not the sound I'm going for.

I'm really close to getting the Eberhard Weber sound that I want, and I like the stock NS strings fairly well, I just wish they came in a heavier gauge or a higher tension. The G string is my chief complaint. It's lighter than the G I currently have my 5 string electric bass guitar.

 

[Pat Harris]

I also wanted to add, that this is the first instrument I've used with active electronics. Is there a general protocol with active electronics? On all of my passive instruments, I just run everything wide open the entire time.

I've been keeping all of the EQ and general volume hovering around 12:00, I'm just wondering if there is any advantage to cranking the volume of the bass all the way up and then adjusting the overall volume/EQ with the amp, etc?

 

[BassBus]

Just experiment. Having an on-board active circuit just gives you more choice to tailor your tone the way you want it. If you want a heavy bottom end then crank up the bass. It's up to you to keep trying different settings until you find a tone you like.