Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
OFFICIAL ASHDOWN CLUB
- Thread starter Presto2112
- Start date
Yeah the grill mesh pattern matches the H too. I don't think theT is made anymore either.Ah, OK cool - I've learned something new... I wasn't aware that the T series (lightweight option) went back to the blue cones. Good to know
Let's see if I can help.
I've owned the head before, and it is outstanding - one of those "sheesh, why did I ever let that one go?" pieces of gear.... [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] The Gallery in London is selling one (2nd hand) so there is a ton of info to be found at that link.
That doesn't look like the 414T cab, but it does look like the ABM-410H-EVO IV CABINET. I say that just based on the naming standard, and speaker cone colour... but I could be wrong.
Because they are both outstanding chaps, I'd suggest emailing Dave Green and Guy Morel at Ashdown. They will soon set things straight
Good luck
Julian aka Glassmoon (Essex, UK)
Hey Julian, thanks for the email info. It’s definitely the 414T.
For future info. The 414T is approximately 83lbs. As per Ashdown.
As much as I love Ashdown, I’m 64yo, not sure I want to go back to that heavy lol. I have a big decision to make.
In your case I would look elsewhere. I have a darkglass 212 that handles 1000watts and weighs about 41lbs and any head I push it with sounds beautiful.
In a phone call to Ashdown on 11/09/2011 just before buying a 4x10 I asked about the difference between the H and T variants, and was told that H is horn, T is tweeter, and the difference is not significant. They designed the horn, so changes are probably noted in the model number to save time looking inside.
There are also small variations between the cabs, mine has the elliptical handles but has the later grille patterns and rear ports. I think a lot of Ashdown cabs probably have details that put them somewhere between particular established designs. I don't think they made sudden changes, so much as cautious ones that solved some specific thing they wanted to improve at the time.
There are also small variations between the cabs, mine has the elliptical handles but has the later grille patterns and rear ports. I think a lot of Ashdown cabs probably have details that put them somewhere between particular established designs. I don't think they made sudden changes, so much as cautious ones that solved some specific thing they wanted to improve at the time.
Picked up a dual VU ABM600 recently. Gigged the old ABM500C115 heavily way back when and forgot how much I missed that ash down sound!
This amp is just stupid loud into my little Bergantino NXV210.
This amp is just stupid loud into my little Bergantino NXV210.
Congrats and welcome back! You going to get that head a few more speakers to push?
I have a 15” I can add for any obnoxiously loud gigs. The 210 should be plenty for 90% of anything I’d do. I think about adding the NXV112, but $$$$!
forgot how easy it is to find a great sound with these amps. Even with the new sliders, it just seems to make sense. Doesn’t hurt that it looks awesome.
The big question is to rack or not to rack?
At the risk of asking a dumb question, I have an Ashdown OriginAL 300 watt head. With the shape button, Ashdown says pushing it in boosts the lows and highs-like putting a smiley face on a graphic EQ. It sounds to me that the lows and highs are boosted when the shape button is out. So am I confused, or is that the way Ashdown amps work?
Thanks!! I was beginning to think that maybe I wouldn’t be able to get along with this amp-which was sad, because I do like it.
So, I finally spent some time getting to really work the controls, and I’m happy to say, I think I got it now. I found what EQ settings work, and I found, that if I push the shape button in, it gives a much more straightforward sound. Put the shape button out, and it really gives a nice modern bass tone. The lows are fat, without getting mushy.
The cabs are a RM112T EVO II, and a RM115 EVO II. I was ready to give up, and sell this rig, but now-I’m gonna keep it.
Roger Hart (known on TB as hasbeen) said you can’t go wrong with Ashdown amps. Based on what I have, I agree with him.
So, I finally spent some time getting to really work the controls, and I’m happy to say, I think I got it now. I found what EQ settings work, and I found, that if I push the shape button in, it gives a much more straightforward sound. Put the shape button out, and it really gives a nice modern bass tone. The lows are fat, without getting mushy.
The cabs are a RM112T EVO II, and a RM115 EVO II. I was ready to give up, and sell this rig, but now-I’m gonna keep it.
Roger Hart (known on TB as hasbeen) said you can’t go wrong with Ashdown amps. Based on what I have, I agree with him.
Ashdown seems to have a bit of a penchant for building tone circuits that are counterintuitive, if not downright confusing. Also the way the circuit works is not necessarily consistent from model to model. My LB30 Mk1 and LB30Mk2 sound and behave quite different from each other.
Top image is the Mk1, bottom is the Mk2
Fiddle with the switches and knobs and figure out how to get the sound you want. If the voicing of the amp makes that impossible, get a different amp. (Best to try before you buy).
What I have found, is by putting the bass at noon, low mid about 2 o’clock, mid and high mid at noon, treble at 9 o’clock-all I have to do after that is use the shape button, plus the tone control on the bass, to make on the fly adjustments to my sound. Shape in for standard rock type tones, shape out for more modern type of tone.
