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OFFICIAL ASHDOWN CLUB
- Thread starter Presto2112
- Start date
Another issue that you may not have noticed. The function of the input jacks seems the same on the Mk1 and M2, but I believe the labels on the input jacks are backwards on the Mk2. Ashdown normally uses reverse logic with the naming. "High" seems to mean high attenuation. It's not that big of a deal, but it bugs me because all of my other Ashdown tube amps are labeled and function the other way.
When I had the Mk2 open, I did not see any easy way to move or center the labels. It may be possible if you pull all of the controls, jacks, and meter off the front panel, but that's a lot of work that may not bear fruit. Also, I think the red plastic part with the labels is one solid piece (could be wrong). So if the printing is not perfectly matched to the holes in the metal facade, not much you can do, unless you want to mill and print your own part.
The reversed labels bother me more than the alignment issue. I had hoped it was a matter of rewiring the jacks. But the jacks are mounted directly to the circuit board, so it would be rather invasive to rewire the jacks.
Rather than looking at the labels, I just try to remember that I typically use the second input jack on all of my Ashdowns.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,002
- 1
- 31,690
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Provided rig at my last show. I used to gig with an EVO II like this one and an ABM EVO IV 410 cab. It was the best rig I ever had.
Pretty awesome to show up to a gig and have something you already know very well. I miss my 4x10 cab a lot. I think when it comes to my main amplifier, I'm always going to lean towards an Ashdown
I’m glad I stuck with my Ashdown setup. Was thinking of getting rid of it, and sticking with Fender Rumble. Now I’m looking in the opposite direction! The Rumble is nice, but the Ashdown to me has a lot more clarity to it.
Hello Ashdown members - I was hoping y’all might have some ideas on what I could try before having to pack up my amp to send off to the tech. I bought a Little Bastard on Reverb that worked before it was shipping, but now doesn’t work. It powers up, I can see the tubes glow, but no sound. Any ideas on something I could check? I live in the middle of nowhere, so my only option really is to send it somewhere.
If I do have to send it somewhere, any suggestions? I live in Mississippi. Thanks!!
If I do have to send it somewhere, any suggestions? I live in Mississippi. Thanks!!
Try each input and output configuration. Check return and send find a path that works and trouble shoot from there
Did you try the mute switch?
The Effects Loop has switching contacts. If the contacts are dirty or damaged, the signal may not pass the Effects Loop. Try plugging your bass into the Return. You can also try running a short cable between the Send and Return.
It's possible a preamp tube is not seated properly. One of the LB30s I bought had sort of a low signal with distortion. I opened it up and one of the preamp tubes was barely in the socket. I was surprised it passed signal. Weird since the preamp tubes have shields with spring retainers. When I removed the shield, the tube was totally loose. I reseated the tube and now it sounds fine. If you open the amp, reseat all of the tubes.
It's also possible a preamp tube is bad/dead. The amp will continue to play if some of the output tubes quit working...as long as they don't blow the HT fuse.
The LB30 has two fuses. The mains fuse is for the AC. If it's good, the amp will turn on. The second fuse is for the high voltage (HT) power supply. If this fuse is blown, the amp will turn on, but it will not operate. You can inspect the HT fuse. If it's bad, replace with proper fuse. If it blows a second time, the amp needs to see a tech.
The Schematic shows T650mA. The back panel shows 630mA H.
T means the fuse is a time delay (slow blow)
H mean the fuse has high break capacity. I believe this means the fuse can handle transient current spikes significantly over its rating.
There is probably some distinction between T and H, but H appears to imply time delay.
Damn, sorry for your experience. I would jump over to bass chat UK there's a few guys there who might be able to help get contact or she some light.
Mine (#2) didn't have either of those items. Nor the foot controller. Sweetwater sent #3 for me to check out, it too was missing all those items. I returned #3, let SW they may need to get with Ashdown. SW stepped up and sent me a foot controller (with a messa swag as well - tip of the hat to Luke Herian). I emailed Ashdown and got a brief reply (fairly quickly) that they were aware and SW had contacted them as well. I took it as they're a smaller company, it is what it is, shrugged my shoulders and moved on. And clicked "buy" on the Interstellar Guy Pratt head as well.
All to say, imho it's sometimes the merchant vs. the manufacturer that defines the experience. I've had a few issues in the past with other pieces of gear and SW has consistently helped me out. Had SW not helped out, I'd likely not have ordered any more Ashdown gear.
Which would be a shame (for me) as they're killer amps!
Glad it worked out for you!
Seems to me, If manufacturer experience alone determined future purchases, there are number of companies that wouldn’t be around (most of the direct ones succeed or fail based on this). I could write a small essay on direct experiences with manufacturers. My one experience with Ashdown? Ashdown did good, their repair center not so much. Ashdown went the distance to fix things and I really appreciated it. This was probably 17 years ago so probably not relevant today.
Seems most companies do it right but are eclipsed here on Talkbass by a few companies that have active members or even company owners represented here. So they really get to the bottom of things and at the same time create a super loyal base of players.
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Personally I'd be pissed if I paid ahead premium price and was told I'd get the letter, the video, and whatever else was advertised and got none of it and a shrug when confronted? I give sellers a lot of slack and I'll even let them blow some smoke up my butt the first time I ask for them to fix something. But do it twice and gloves come off.
The comparison no one asked for…
had a chance to compare my V2 Terror Bass to my ABM600. both great, powerful amps. Still have to test it out with some loud people. So far, The moral of the story, I can get the Ashdown to sound like the Orange but can’t get the Ashdown sound out of the Orange. Ashdown has the advantage for flexibility and power. Orange has the Ashdown beat on portability. So really no surprises. I really like both and will likely use both once I’m functional enough to play out again.
Now I need to pick the perfect rack for the Ashdown.
had a chance to compare my V2 Terror Bass to my ABM600. both great, powerful amps. Still have to test it out with some loud people. So far, The moral of the story, I can get the Ashdown to sound like the Orange but can’t get the Ashdown sound out of the Orange. Ashdown has the advantage for flexibility and power. Orange has the Ashdown beat on portability. So really no surprises. I really like both and will likely use both once I’m functional enough to play out again.
Now I need to pick the perfect rack for the Ashdown.
You just need to turn the orange into the new black.
I'm looking at the gator vintage 3u rack when ever indecied I need one. I like the red and don't travel with it so no need yet.
Many times I almost bought one of those LB550’s. Many times. Just never pulled the trigger. How do you like it?
At this point I think I’ll gig the Ashdown. I guess my Ashdown plus case will weigh about as much or more than my 2x10, so it should be a balanced load. Doubt I’d get rid of the Orange. Front end acts more like a tube amp than anything else I’ve used.
Casesmith customs over on Etsy can build a similar case to the gator customized for a little less$$$. He built me a custom 3u a few years back and it was a top notch experience.
Nice! I'll check him out, I prefer to support small business when I can.
