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OFFICIAL ASHDOWN CLUB
- Thread starter Presto2112
- Start date
JeezyMcNuggles
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- Feb 23, 2018
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- I suck, but nobody really notices
Fair point on the shipping.
Email them both I say. And post on the Farcebook page. As others have said, Mark G. is a true gent.
JeezyMcNuggles
Inactive
- Feb 23, 2018
- 14,723
- 20,970
- Disclosures
- I suck, but nobody really notices
Okay, so I've got it figured out.
It's not any sort of limiter problem. It's not even any sort of input problem at all.
So, the Green LED is just introducing noise in to the signal.
Dave got back to me today, and he told me that Guy and George were making me a video to show me how to use the amp. I mentioned the possible input limiter, and he said that there is no limter in the system. He didn't even acknowledge what I said about a possible return.
So...
I made another video. While making the video, and having the new knowledge that there is no limiter on the input, I noticed that he's right. My signal doesn't sound like its being compressed at all. Or, that it's dropping in volume in any way. What I noticed was that everytime the green light comes on, what I'm getting is an audiable "tick"
The more intense the light shines, the more intense the noise.
Check it out.
Last edited:
Just got a pretty good deal on a used ABM 500. Going to try it at reggae practice this evening. Cabs are two Mesa Subway 15s. Hoping it sounds as heavy as it is.
JeezyMcNuggles
Inactive
- Feb 23, 2018
- 14,723
- 20,970
- Disclosures
- I suck, but nobody really notices
Well, here's the update.
Dave watched that last video I made, and he experimented with another rm head. He's found the same issue in that one. He said he's going to revamp the rm range, and he's going to handle my return as well.
Gotta say, I am very happy to hear that.
I also told him to use a more linear output pot when he updates the line up.
Dave watched that last video I made, and he experimented with another rm head. He's found the same issue in that one. He said he's going to revamp the rm range, and he's going to handle my return as well.
Gotta say, I am very happy to hear that.
I also told him to use a more linear output pot when he updates the line up.
My RM 300 doesn't behave that way. I never get the limiter to kick in and my normal volumes and the vol is only on the second click. I can't imagine how loud it would be at noon.
Congrats! Those are great looking heads--which I considered at one time. I have three Ampeg all tube heads and will not be giving them up. Hard to kick the tube habit. However, I do love the warmth of my SS RM300 for something a little different.
Just bought me a Studio 15 combo. The older I get the lighter my gear gets. Currently using a GK 500w rig but only ever use a fraction of its potential, and last night I giged with a backline provided combo of another brand. I decided then and there a combo was going to replace my rig, and I settled on the Ashdown. I have my own PA system so it will cover any situation I will come across. Looking forward to it arriving.
I’m new to the idea of Ashdown, but not tubes in general. I’m currently using a Genzler Magellan 800 through one or two Bergantino Reference 112 cabs. I love the sound but want a warmer tube sound. Would the CTM 100 through an Ashdown ABM 210 HC EVO IV be a good combo? We do run stage volume up a bit, but only using 1/4-1/3 power on the Magellan. Also, does the 100 have decent tone? It’s between that and an Ampeg V4-B. Also, we bleed all instruments through the PA system for reinforcement.
I own a CTM 300 which uses the same preamp as the CTM 100. It's capable of producing a variety of very usable tones and does preamp drive well. The tone stack can be frustrating and confounding. But it seems to be intuitive and work well if you start with the rotaries at about 9:00 and then constrain your adjustment to the range between 7:00 and about 11:00.
I would say CTM 100 and 300 are a bit warmer and darker than most tube amps. I would put SVTs and V4Bs in this category as well.
A few years back there was a thread that compared and contrasted the V4B and CTM 100. I believe the V4B was a bit louder and the tone stack is definitely more intuitive. My understanding is the CTM 300 output section is setup to produce max clean power and the CTM 100 output section is setup to distort a easier and more eloquently. This is an interpretation of what the designer of these amps told me. Hopefully I clearly translated his intent.
Here is my post in the V4B VS CTM 100 thread: Anyone played both an Ashdown CTM100 and an Ampeg V4b?
Consider reading the entire thread. Also note that there are conflicting opinions. So, if possible demo the amps and decide for yourself.
I have gigged with an 85W amp in a cover band. Normally I want 150W or more. I you are really wanting an Ashdown, I believe the CTM 200 also uses the same preamp as the CTM 300 and 100. You could also consider an Orange AD200B or Traynor YBA200
When using an amp with limited power, you can make up for it by choosing a cab that is more efficient. Look for the cab's sensitivity rating which may look like this 97dB 1W/1m. The means 1 Watt is applied and the cab produces 97 decibels measured at a distance of 1 meter.
You may also see something like 97dB 2.83V/1m. This means 2.83 V is applied and the SPL is measure at a distance of 1m. You need to know the impedance with this sort of Sensitivity spec. 2.83V at 8 ohms is 1W. 97dB 2.83V/1m at 8 ohms is the same as 97dB 1W/1m.
But 2.83V at 4 ohms is 2W. To convert the 4 ohm rating to 1W simply subtract 3dB. For example, if the rating is 100dB 2.83V/1m at 4 ohm, it's the same as 97dB 1W/1m.
If you have a cab rated 97dB 1W/1m and another cab rated 100dB 1W/1m, the first cab will need twice as much power to hit the same SPL as the second cab.
100W with 97dB 1W/1m cab = 117dB
100W with 100dB 1W/1m cab = 120dB
200W with 97dB 1W/1m cab = 120dB
The idea to remember is doubling the power results in +3db and cutting the power in half results in -3dB. A 3dB change is generally considered the smallest change we can hear clearly.
If I only had 100W, I would want a cab with at least 104dB 1W/1m sensitivity rating. This is a very high sensitivity rating.
100W with 104dB 1W/1m = 124dB. While this is my desired target for headroom, I can make 118dB work, although it can make it difficult to hear well enough.
The Ashdown ABM 210 HC EVO IV has a sensitivity rating of 98dB 1W/1m
With 100W the calculated SPL is 118dB.
If you add a matching cab, the combined sensitivity goes up 3dB to 101dB, the power handling doubles to 600W, and the impedance is cut in half (4 ohms total). With 100W the calculated SPL with both cabs would be 121dB.
I don't think it would be worth getting the ABM cabs if you're already in possession of Bergs. You wouldn't really gain anything but a much heavier cab.
The Bergs also have a 98dB 1W/1m sensitivity rating. Keep in mind there is no standard way of doing the measurement...so consider ratings from different companies as ballpark comparisons.
Which is best could depend on the tone you want. I would probably prefer the Bergs, but @Keithunem may prefer the Ashdowns.
Thanks to both of you for your input. I would definitely buy the head first, and try it with the Bergs. I like the specs on the CTM 200, but like the enclosed head design of the 300 and 100. I have a couple hybrids with cladd D and MOSFET power, but even with my Noble I’m wanting full tube sound. Once again, I really appreciate your input!
@Keithunem
The CTM is my favourite amplifier ever…but INO definitely try before buy if possible
The CTM is my favourite amplifier ever…but INO definitely try before buy if possible
On another subject, how’s the music scene in New Zealand?Beautiful country… I’ve always wanted to go and explore areas of NZ…maybe someday!
