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Official Elrick Club Thread!

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im getting mine from glenn at bass specialties...he seems to be giving me a fair price from what ive been qouted so ( at least compared to the prices on elricks website ) ....is there room usually to talk them down in price? if so what is a fair discount for both him and I ?
 
i just went on their site...very close to what im looking for....it says they are evo models but they look like classic to me....man they are close in body style

It's pretty easy to tell those are e-volutions once you know the differences between the two. The quickest way to tell is by looking at the lower left-hand corner of the bass; the e-vos have a curved line of the topwood as it meets the bass body, and the Classics have a straight line where the top meets the body, and it shows a little more of the body wood.


im getting mine from glenn at bass specialties...he seems to be giving me a fair price from what ive been qouted so ( at least compared to the prices on elricks website ) ....is there room usually to talk them down in price? if so what is a fair discount for both him and I ?

The prices on the Elrick site are the list prices. Elrick dealers have a set maximum that they're allowed to discount- it's something like up to 20 or 25%, maybe up to 30% off the list price (don't remember for certain which it is). Add up the list price of the bass with all the options you want, then take 20 or 25% off of it and see if it's close to the sale price you were offered.
 
My old fretless! You still have that one, Bryan? I was the one who originally ordered it from Rob back in 98 or so.

Nah, sold it years ago when I decided the Classic body style wasn't for me. Last I saw it, it was owned by a young woman up in Canada.

What's up with the 12th fret markers?

The person who I bought it from had put their own fret markers made of white-out at all of the "proper" fret positions up to the 12th fret. Most lined fretlesses have the side dots located in-between the frets- the same place they are on a fretted. They're useless there though as they only give a visual reference to where you DON'T want to fret- the proper spot for intonating the note though is directly under the fretline, so that's where he made his marks. I'm in full agreement- the three fretlesses I've had custom made for myself have all had the side dots placed below the fretlines rather than in-between them.
 
the buckeye burl top bolt on was definitly 2999 i dont remember the price on the maple topped one. i am guessing it was 2999 cause it was a bookmatched top. i know i paid quite a bit extra for it on mine.


both of them at rudys are evo's. i couldnt resist when i got there. i had to play them!! but thank god they had an extra string or i would have had a third.....
 
I was discussing tops with Rob Elrick and he showed me a pic of a badass bass he recently completed- a seven-string with extra frets and a Ghost MIDI system:
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I decided to get a buckeye top for it last night as it's my favorite wood and it'll be the last custom I get for a long time. Other than that and slightly tighter string spacing (18mm instead of 19mm), it should be identical to my zircote fretted. Should be done sometime in April as well- I'm psyched.
 
They're onto the body of the bass at that point though, so they aren't nearly as easy to fret for most people. The MIDI system is what looks awesome to me. If it worked better with the lower bass strings, I'd love a MIDI setup.
 
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