Official Highway One Club

[13ftHand]

Where I am talking about is the shoulder of the key shaft, right where the face of it bears on the outer pressed half-cylinder of the plate...area bears the entire load of the string tension, pulling the key shaft inward against it...get a drop of oil in there..."

"This cleared up 100% of the "rock crushing" sensation on the last "worn out" set of Standard machines on which I tried it.

"

Ah ha! I've wondered where the real friction point was--that makes sense! I've convinced my wife that Hipshot EB7's are a good investment so I'll lube the shoulder/half-cylinder area in the meantime. I don't really need the "finest tuner money can buy" -- just wanted to get some kind of tuner upgrade, and preferably keep my first P bass as American as possible.

Re: lubrication product (a whole other thread, I'm sure, but) 3-n-1, white lithium, graphite -- I'm interested in your preference, Bongolation...and thanks for the benifit of your experience.

 

[TMart99]

Okay, silly question.

How do I know if a P bass I'm looking at is a Highway One? Does it have "Highway One " stenciled some where on the headstock? Somewhere else?

 

[Sleeq]

Nope... no decal per se.

Just have to check by the tuners (same as MIM) and the finish (matte / satin).

If it's the newer version, it will have a 70's logo on the headstock and a BAII bridge.

 

[Engine207]

Okay, silly question.

How do I know if a P bass I'm looking at is a Highway One? Does it have "Highway One " stenciled some where on the headstock? Somewhere else?

I think the quickest way is if it says "Made in USA" but isn't strung through...it's probably a Highway One/1

 

[SlingBass4]

bump for some new pics maybe?

NO problem

Both with Warmoth necks, Hipshot 'lollipop' tuners, brass nut on on the P-Bass, and new guts plus Fender '62's (P-Bass) & '60's Custom Shop (J-Bass). Rosewood FB on the P, and Pau Ferro FB on the J

 

[Bongolation]

Re: lubrication product (a whole other thread, I'm sure, but) 3-n-1, white lithium, graphite -- I'm interested in your preference, Bongolation...and thanks for the benifit of your experience.

Whatever's closest.

Seriously, don't be obsessed with this stuff. It doesn't matter that much. I avoid greases because they squelch out of pressure points and make a mess all over everything. Industrially, the grease they use on most guitar stuff when they use it at all is nothing but common petroleum jelly.

About the most demanding lubrication I can think of in instruments is a guitar B-bender mechanism. I read a lot about maintenance of these things and the most persuasive case for a lubricant was for simple motor oil -- which is not a simple lubricant. It sticks like crazy, it has incredible persistence and good surfactance, it doesn't break down, etc. There was nothing better. Motor oil applied sparingly with a toothpick will work as well as anything fancier and better than almost everything else.

 

[portaflexer]

Does the Highway 2 Bass get me into the Highway 1 club?

 

[Engine207]

Does the Highway 2 Bass get me into the Highway 1 club?

I motion that the Highway 2 is grounds for admission. Do we have a second?

 

[OlSkewl56]

I second it, that looks great!

 

[Wannaflea]

Hi all, heard a while back that the HW-1 line was going to be stopped. Has this happenned or is this happenning? Thanks.

 

[Bongolation]

Hi all, heard a while back that the HW-1 line was going to be stopped. Has this happenned or is this happenning?

Groundless rumor based on idle supposition due to the introduction of the American Special and occasional deep sales of the Highway Ones.

 

[Wannaflea]

Groundless rumor based on idle supposition due to the introduction of the American Special and occasional deep sales of the Highway Ones.

Are you sure? Its not on the USA or GB fender websites

 

[Bongolation]

Are you sure? Its not on the USA or GB fender websites

Strange, it's not, but they are still making them and Fender dealers are still getting them and selling them at in-production pricing. I have one on the bench that was made just a few weeks ago and I personally know of production that's more recent than that.

Whether this is some recent site error Brad hasn't cleared up (how many can you count?) or what, I don't know, but FMIC always keeps discontinued models on the websites for at least a year to support remaining stocks at retailers.

So, something's screwed up and I couldn't say what.

 

[Wannaflea]

Strange, it's not, but they are still making them and Fender dealers are still getting them and selling them at in-production pricing. I have one on the bench that was made just a few weeks ago and I personally know of production that's more recent than that.

Whether this is some recent site error Brad hasn't cleared up (how many can you count?) or what, I don't know, but FMIC always keeps discontinued models on the websites for at least a year to support remaining stocks at retailers.

So, something's screwed up and I couldn't say what.

Thanks for clearing that up, maybe the screw up is associated with the adding of the blacktops?

Whats the difference between the RWs and HW-1 jazzes? Recently played and loved a RW jazz, but the factory wear seems a bit fake, I want to do it myself.

Also, what pups do these have? Standard vintage?

One last one: would putting in a switch that could bypass the Greasebucket be a major project for a luthier?

Really gassing for a HW-1 jazz in 3TB with a tort guard!

 

[Bongolation]

Thanks for clearing that up, maybe the screw up is associated with the adding of the blacktops?

I think it's mainly just Brad Traweek being too stressed out to keep all of FMIC's websites updated and accurate. That's a huge job. Think of all their brands.

Whats the difference between the RWs and HW-1 jazzes?

Currently? Bunch of stuff: Dimensions, graphite neck reinforcement, machines, BAII bridge, etc., etc.

Also, what pups do these have? Standard vintage?

Jazzes have MIM 58358/9 set, same as Roadworn & Classic. The Precisions have the new 61276/7 MIA set used in the American Standards, which are also in the RW and Classics.`

The "vintage" part seems pretty notional to me. Usual plastic bobbins with a more vertical coil than a real vintage pickup.

What makes these "vintage," I don't know. Perhaps the do-nothing shielding plates on the Jazz set.

One last one: would putting in a switch that could bypass the Greasebucket be a major project for a luthier?

A switch is a bad idea. If you want to get rid of it, just do it, it's an easy fix. I don't care enough one way or the other.

Not all of the recent HOs even have the Greasebucket for some reason.

I had two Ps made on the same day apart on the bench. One had the Greasebucket and the other didn't and they had different pickups, one with a scrounged set that didn't match. It also had a bad fretboard. Terrible bass that went back. Other one was fine. 2011 production/QC is chaotic.

Really gassing for a HW-1 jazz in 3TB with a tort guard!

I have one sitting right next to me as I write this. Nice two-piece body better than my American Standard's three-piece. Unfortunately, I can't play it for a couple of more months due to hand surgery.

Got the pickguard from Amazon.

 

[Wannaflea]

I think it's mainly just Brad Traweek being too stressed out to keep all of FMIC's websites updated and accurate. That's a huge job. Think of all their brands.

Currently? Bunch of stuff: Dimensions, graphite neck reinforcement, machines, BAII bridge, etc., etc.

Jazzes have MIM 58358/9 set, same as Roadworn & Classic. The Precisions have the new 61276/7 MIA set used in the American Standards, which are also in the RW and Classics.`

The "vintage" part seems pretty notional to me. Usual plastic bobbins with a more vertical coil than a real vintage pickup.

What makes these "vintage," I don't know. Perhaps the do-nothing shielding plates on the Jazz set.

A switch is a bad idea. If you want to get rid of it, just do it, it's an easy fix. I don't care enough one way or the other.

Not all of the recent HOs even have the Greasebucket for some reason.

I had two Ps made on the same day apart on the bench. One had the Greasebucket and the other didn't and they had different pickups, one with a scrounged set that didn't match. It also had a bad fretboard. Terrible bass that went back. Other one was fine. 2011 production/QC is chaotic.

I have one sitting right next to me as I write this. Nice two-piece body better than my American Standard's three-piece. Unfortunately, I can't play it for a couple of more months due to hand surgery.

Got the pickguard from Amazon.

Firstly, assume Im talking about Js, not Ps

I recently played a RW jazz and loved the tone, so that was the reason for my question regarding the diferences.

Sorry, why is a switch a bad idea? Excuse my ignorance please!


Ooh you lucky git! WANT!

 

[Bongolation]

Firstly, assume Im talking about Js, not Ps

I know.

I recently played a RW jazz and loved the tone, so that was the reason for my question regarding the diferences.

Different neck, bridge and body (the RW has a thinner body for some reason), each of which are significantly different enough to actually affect sound to some degree. I got rid of the BAII on mine and switched to the vintage toploader low-mass bridge (as on the RW and early H1s). I sold two of these BAII pulls for $300 to a local dealer, which made the switch-out even more attractive.

But...another RW might have sounded completely different to you, though. [shrug]

Sorry, why is a switch a bad idea? Excuse my ignorance please!

It's a visible, irreversible mod (unless you do it with a push/pull switched pot), which is virtually always a bad idea unless you're resigned to having it undone and buying a new control plate when you sell/trade the instrument. Mods are death on resale!

Secondly, the Greasebucket is a non-issue not worth the hassle to switch in/out, and certainly not worth drilling a hole in your bass for. If you really don't like it, it's easy to remove. It's just less than one cent's worth of electronic components -- a resistor and a capacitor -- added differently to the basic circuit.

On my own instruments, I'm too indifferent to it to take the trouble to take it off the ones that have it or add it to the ones that don't.

 

[Wannaflea]

I know.

Different neck, bridge and body (the RW has a thinner body for some reason), each of which are significantly different enough to actually affect sound to some degree. I got rid of the BAII on mine and switched to the vintage toploader low-mass bridge (as on the RW and early H1s). I sold two of these BAII pulls for $300 to a local dealer, which made the switch-out even more attractive.

But...another RW might have sounded completely different to you, though. [shrug]

It's a visible, irreversible mod (unless you do it with a push/pull switched pot), which is virtually always a bad idea unless you're resigned to having it undone and buying a new control plate when you sell/trade the instrument. Mods are death on resale!

Secondly, the Greasebucket is a non-issue not worth the hassle to switch in/out, and certainly not worth drilling a hole in your bass for. If you really don't like it, it's easy to remove. It's just less than one cent's worth of electronic components -- a resistor and a capacitor -- added differently to the basic circuit.

On my own instruments, I'm too indifferent to it to take the trouble to take it off the ones that have it or add it to the ones that don't.

Thanks for your help, thats given me a lot to think about!

 

[Wannaflea]

Dude I think you might be wrong, a threads just come up and it seems they are being replaced with American Specials

 

[Bongolation]

Dude I think you might be wrong, a threads just come up and it seems they are being replaced with American Specials

I know, I saw it, but I don't think it's so for the reasons I've stated above.

This rumor was going on since before the HOs I've seen were even made. You don't manufacture "discontinued" models.

If they get the info from FMIC saying it's true, then I'll believe it. So far nobody has, and FMIC was shipping new HOs as recently as four weeks ago.