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Official Joyo Club Part 2: Beyond Thunderclone

When I was putting it back together, I thought about replacing the plastic washer on the switch to a metal one to make it look better, but then I realized that since all the other washers were metal there might be an electrical reason joyo put a plastic one there. Anyone know?
 
When I was putting it back together, I thought about replacing the plastic washer on the switch to a metal one to make it look better, but then I realized that since all the other washers were metal there might be an electrical reason joyo put a plastic one there. Anyone know?
Electronics are mostly beyond me, but I do notice that Earthquaker Devices also have a plastic washer under the stomp switch(es) on their pedals. (and I remember seeing it on many others, too). This leads me to believe that the plastic is there for some isolation reason, and not because they were to cheap to use a metal one.
 
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When I was putting it back together, I thought about replacing the plastic washer on the switch to a metal one to make it look better, but then I realized that since all the other washers were metal there might be an electrical reason joyo put a plastic one there. Anyone know?
Mostly because the plastic can relieve a little stress. It, to an extent absorbs a little pressure when the switch is stepped on.
 
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If you're talking about running a high gain od into a low gain American, that's exactly what I do with my blower box. Quite happy with the result. The American is pretty much my amp sim before the DI.
So do you run the american (relatively) clean as a preamp? I've already decided to use the American as my preamp (and unfortunately basically ditch the British for now) but I was going to run it at the beginning of my chain. Bass -- American -- Wah -- MXR BFD -- Bass Big Muff Pi -- Blower Box -- UD -- Phaser -- Dispatch Master Delay/Reverb -- Amp. I have been thinking about moving it in the middle before the Blower Box, or even at the very end of the chain. While I use an amp live, the DI out on it is pre-eq and pre-volume. I guess I'll just leave it at the beginning for now and see how it goes at my next gig on friday.
 
So do you run the american (relatively) clean as a preamp? I've already decided to use the American as my preamp (and unfortunately basically ditch the British for now) but I was going to run it at the beginning of my chain. Bass -- American -- Wah -- MXR BFD -- Bass Big Muff Pi -- Blower Box -- UD -- Phaser -- Dispatch Master Delay/Reverb -- Amp. I have been thinking about moving it in the middle before the Blower Box, or even at the very end of the chain. While I use an amp live, the DI out on it is pre-eq and pre-volume. I guess I'll just leave it at the beginning for now and see how it goes at my next gig on friday.
Yes, I run the American with just enough gain to color the clean tone in a way I like. It also cuts some of the more unpleasant highs from the blower, much like a tweeterless cab would.
 
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It's hilarious because when they had their Point-to-Point construction Fender Deluxe and Dual Reverb clones on their site, which are not there anymore so probably discontinued, everybody on the gear page (telecaster forum, etc) was crying foul over JOYO ripping off other companies.

But, they were doing exactly what Valve Train and a bunch of other boutique amp makers do and get lauded for.
 
as I was putting my UD back together after sanding, I tightened the high gain-low gain switch a bit too much and it came apart. I now have a little metal stick with a black plastic piece on the end(which fits into the place on the circuit board), the casing, and the switch with a ball and a hole on one end that fits into the first stick. does anyone know if/how this could be fixed? maybe with some solder?


Parts:
IMG_2571.JPG

Circuit:
 

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Also, I have a gig tonight, so do you think I could just put it back together and use whatever mode the switch is on until I can fix the switch?

This has happened to me on other pedals. If you do not want to do soldering, the easiest way to fix it is to buy a switch like that one at an electronics component place and just unclip the folded sheet of metal on top of the switch. This will expose the inner parts (usually a plastic piece that moves around metal pieces) and just replace everything from the new switch you bought. Just make sure you replace it in the right orientation. Basically, you are changing the whole top part of the switch. I know it's not the most recommended way of fixing it but it will change everything BUT the base of the switch that is soldered to the board.
 
This has happened to me on other pedals. If you do not want to do soldering, the easiest way to fix it is to buy a switch like that one at an electronics component place and just unclip the folded sheet of metal on top of the switch. This will expose the inner parts (usually a plastic piece that moves around metal pieces) and just replace everything from the new switch you bought. Just make sure you replace it in the right orientation. Basically, you are changing the whole top part of the switch. I know it's not the most recommended way of fixing it but it will change everything BUT the base of the switch that is soldered to the board.
hmm, not sure I fully understand you. what is the folded sheet of metal on top of the switch
 
You want to remove the full top part, it's just clipped onto the plastic housing:

eDW3I1i.jpg


Be careful, The shaft shearing/coming out may have broken the insides, you will have to replace that from your new switch as well. This one is empty, normally you'd have tiny pieces of metal and a plastic lever that attaches to the switch shaft.

c7S5O3f.jpg
 
I am really impressed about the American sound. I am using it as always on od / preamp along with my Fishman pro eq and not only the bass sound got a lot closer to what I want it to be, all the dirt before the American sounds smoother and nicer too. So I dont need my MS60B to do the dirt smoothing and I can use it as something else.