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Official Tobias Club
- Thread starter magneezius
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that's possible.. but why remove only the provenance text and leave the actual serial number completely intact?
^exactly. My guess is that the owner was planning on passing it off as a US Tobias. I'm taking it tomorrow to a local luthier (Alex Jones) to see what can be done about the scars. Chances are that I'll have to leave things the way they are.
I think it's a lovely bass I remember Mike saying it was a great concept aswell, you have an early one with a schaller bridge... Woods are nice on these too ash plus rosewood board maple neck... Some advise it's prolly best to leave everything as is.. The color of this bass sets it apart, as it is not very common, or rare even, as I havent seen it before.. reds I have seen a couple, black once and a white one slso only once most are clear... doing something to it will only make it less in value... Remember 400 were made thats not much, and ths one is an early one...
If you decide not to stick with it and sell it down the road the color will make it more desirable then anything else... There is one modification still on this bass and that is they have drillend a hole and put the mid pot thru the body, these had 3 band preamps but only treble and bass had knobs (stacked) the mid was only accesable thru the control cavity.. So normally not accessable
Much luck tho, don't know what you paid for it, but it's still a great find!
Thanks Brams!
This keeps getting from bad to worse! LOL I didn't know about the MID knob modification!
Is this bass really collectible in anyone's eyes anymore? I know they made few of these, but from the other comments I've read it seems like these and the Model Ts are Kind of the "black sheep" of the family--overseen/finished by Mike but not really desirable compared to those fully made by him. And now not only is my bass scratched-up and chiseled-up, but also drilled-up
--that's all right though, I appreciate THIS particular mod
BTW, I wouldn't refinish the bass...I love the color too much to do that! I am hoping though that my tech can "touch up" the sanded area (or is this a no-no?)
This keeps getting from bad to worse! LOL
I didn't know about the MID knob modification!Is this bass really collectible in anyone's eyes anymore? I know they made few of these, but from the other comments I've read it seems like these and the Model Ts are Kind of the "black sheep" of the family--overseen/finished by Mike but not really desirable compared to those fully made by him. And now not only is my bass scratched-up and chiseled-up, but also drilled-up
--that's all right though, I appreciate THIS particular mod
BTW, I wouldn't refinish the bass...I love the color too much to do that! I am hoping though that my tech can "touch up" the sanded area (or is this a no-no?)
I believe the Japanese one is 100% Michaels design as he made prototypes that are fully US made... Its pretty simple if you want to keep it co's it sounds and plays good, which it prolly does, then iTS alright to touchup and while you at that iTS prolly even better to change the whole knob layout to the american spec in total that means 5 single knobs instead of 4 and 1 stacked now.. There are actually quite alot of std basses that have this done.. Look at the used basses from thelowend.net there is a std 6 that has that preamp mod I mention.
If your not planning to keep it don't invest in it you'll never get the investment out... But you can make it in a better State and enjoy it more iTS up to you
A few months back I had a shot at a black 5er, altho I'm happy with the classic 6 I own, I still regret not buying it when I had the chance it was however in better shape.. The classic is the most sickest bass ive have ever owned but not something I can take everywhere, iTS too dear and special...
Funny thing it was listed on ebay from someone in Miami
If your not planning to keep it don't invest in it you'll never get the investment out... But you can make it in a better State and enjoy it more iTS up to you
A few months back I had a shot at a black 5er, altho I'm happy with the classic 6 I own, I still regret not buying it when I had the chance it was however in better shape.. The classic is the most sickest bass ive have ever owned but not something I can take everywhere, iTS too dear and special...
Funny thing it was listed on ebay from someone in Miami
- Oct 23, 2005
- 1,439
- 1,378
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: MTD Basses, Bartolini, Genzler Amplification, GHS, Tsunami Cables, Sonic Nuance
Looks like I may be joining this club again, as of tomorrow afternoon! Have a possible deal in the works. If any of you have a 6 string to sell that you've been on the fence about, now's the time to let me know!
This would be my fourth Tobias
More tomorrow...
This would be my fourth Tobias
More tomorrow...
I wouldn't consider them a "black sheep" necessarily. They're nice instruments. The problem is most people don't know the true history behind these basses and a lot of people (Wrongly) associate all Asian guitar craftsmanship as being "not as good as built in USA"...
Whatever preamp upgrade you have on there might be a nice advantage. The one thing I remember about mine is that it was never as loud nor had the sound presence of the US models that have true Bart' pu's and pre's. The stock pre-amp in the Japanese Tobias' almost sounds passive in comparison. But again - not a bad thing. Just depends on the sound you're going for.
Whatever preamp upgrade you have on there might be a nice advantage. The one thing I remember about mine is that it was never as loud nor had the sound presence of the US models that have true Bart' pu's and pre's. The stock pre-amp in the Japanese Tobias' almost sounds passive in comparison. But again - not a bad thing. Just depends on the sound you're going for.
Thanks Brams!
This keeps getting from bad to worse! LOL
Is this bass really collectible in anyone's eyes anymore? I know they made few of these, but from the other comments I've read it seems like these and the Model Ts are Kind of the "black sheep" of the family--overseen/finished by Mike but not really desirable compared to those fully made by him. And now not only is my bass scratched-up and chiseled-up, but also drilled-up
--that's all right though, I appreciate THIS particular mod
BTW, I wouldn't refinish the bass...I love the color too much to do that! I am hoping though that my tech can "touch up" the sanded area (or is this a no-no?)
The preamp is pretty good! At least I'm happy with it so far....at rehearsal it was nice. It has an old Bartolini TCT preamp with the Mid module. I have no idea what model the pups are though.
It cut through the band really well yet had a smooth, fat tone. I was honestly surprised since I didn't think it was going to cut it when I practiced at home with my headphones. The B string especially sounded muddy through my headphones, but at rehearsal it was TIGHT! And that's with some old cruddy strings. I'll be replacing them with some DR Lowriders tomorrow (God willing).
I'll see this Sunday if it sounds good through the house PA--probably bring my Guild with me just in case
...And I just have to say, the Tobias in your avatar looks amazing!
It cut through the band really well yet had a smooth, fat tone. I was honestly surprised since I didn't think it was going to cut it when I practiced at home with my headphones. The B string especially sounded muddy through my headphones, but at rehearsal it was TIGHT! And that's with some old cruddy strings. I'll be replacing them with some DR Lowriders tomorrow (God willing).
I'll see this Sunday if it sounds good through the house PA--probably bring my Guild with me just in case
...And I just have to say, the Tobias in your avatar looks amazing!
It's the same circuit, only the mid normally isn't reachable as it's in the cavity...
Or atleast the one I 've seen.
The pickups are different tho, they are dual coils with a flat top, like so many other basses with Bart soapbar pickups, not curved like the US made tobiasses (those follow the radius of you fingerboard) which are split or reversed split coils what I understood from Mike.
So they do sound different then the duals, and sound a little different from the US made tobiasses but not in a bad way...
The basses were crafted and maybe painted overseas but assembled and specd and setup in Burbank... So also installment of pickups and preamp was done in the US.
These are not cheaply made knockoffs...
Great info! Thanks Brams
BTW, were you referring to the US Tobias pups or the Standard pups when you mentioned that they were split/rev coil?
These pups have been a mystery to me since I could find no info on them in the Bart website: 70BC5T. They sounded like single coils without hum...not so much dual coils. If they are, they have very even sounding mids; in contrast my Mbass M3 had duals and that was an angry mid heavy bass (really miss it!).
This morning though, I got nothing but praise from the team. The sound guy said it really cut through the mix but sounded nice and full. So it sounds like a keeper! Im going to change the strings to some DR Lowriders and give it another whirl before I comitt. The B string felt floppy and lacked sustain, but I think the culprit is the old string (which came with the bass) rather than the bass.
I might be asking for a number soon! Thanks to all for the help and info
BTW, were you referring to the US Tobias pups or the Standard pups when you mentioned that they were split/rev coil?
These pups have been a mystery to me since I could find no info on them in the Bart website: 70BC5T. They sounded like single coils without hum...not so much dual coils. If they are, they have very even sounding mids; in contrast my Mbass M3 had duals and that was an angry mid heavy bass (really miss it!).
This morning though, I got nothing but praise from the team. The sound guy said it really cut through the mix but sounded nice and full. So it sounds like a keeper! Im going to change the strings to some DR Lowriders and give it another whirl before I comitt. The B string felt floppy and lacked sustain, but I think the culprit is the old string (which came with the bass) rather than the bass.
I might be asking for a number soon! Thanks to all for the help and info
Actually a dual coil Bart pickup (which you have) should sound slightly darker then a reversed split coil, that should be a growly more agressive...
But don't forget a pickup is just a component in the chain, there are other factors that make the tone of a bass a certain way...
Ofcourse getting a good setup and some good new strings is gonna change everything... Hopefully for the good I use string with a tapered core makes the low b even more thight.
Labella and dean markley make such strings... I use the dean markley sr2000 but then I play gospel rnb tunes on that bass most gospel players with these basses use that brand of string works really well, but DR is absolutely top shelf so...
But don't forget a pickup is just a component in the chain, there are other factors that make the tone of a bass a certain way...
Ofcourse getting a good setup and some good new strings is gonna change everything... Hopefully for the good
I use string with a tapered core makes the low b even more thight.Labella and dean markley make such strings... I use the dean markley sr2000 but then I play gospel rnb tunes on that bass most gospel players with these basses use that brand of string works really well, but DR is absolutely top shelf so...
ive been given a bass which I as a novice ,thought well lets look up this bass and see what it really is ,ive been reading all pages on these bass's and it seems like someone was working overtime and they were being made all over the world ,and the more I read I was still not able to see or understand yr of manufacture or is this not real ,but I own instrument it looks same as only 1 ive seen on here ,so I joined this forum hoping to get the oil on instrument ,the numbers on back of neck in gold say U0407 3430 I have no understanding of what or where this bass was made ,it is all one piece 5 laminate reddish zebra 4 string black knobs ,4 adjustment knobs 24fret and at top of neck a little plastic cover that say's toby pro and a bolt underneath cover ,it looks absolutely stunning camera broken so cant do pictures ,after looking at site I can see lots of others wondering what have I really got here ,is this real or some imitation and I just have to know ,its the not knowing coz you cant say I own a tobias bass only to find out yes that's what label saz but not really a true tobias thought this would be easy but no ,like lots of things in this world nothings what it states or appears to be ,will try to get pictures on here soon regards Maralinga
Maralinga it sounds like you have a Toby Pro on your hands! Those are great basses and certainly a wonderful instrument to start out on Congrats
Does anyone know how the early three stacked-knob Tobiases were wired? I'm thinking of turning my Standard into a three stack bass with an active/pass. switch where the mid knob is now. The best arrangement I can think of is v/t (neck), v/t (bridge), tre./bass (mid pot in the control cavity like it was originally)
CongratsDoes anyone know how the early three stacked-knob Tobiases were wired? I'm thinking of turning my Standard into a three stack bass with an active/pass. switch where the mid knob is now. The best arrangement I can think of is v/t (neck), v/t (bridge), tre./bass (mid pot in the control cavity like it was originally)
Maralinga it sounds like you have a Toby Pro on your hands! Those are great basses and certainly a wonderful instrument to start out on
Does anyone know how the early three stacked-knob Tobiases were wired? I'm thinking of turning my Standard into a three stack bass with an active/pass. switch where the mid knob is now. The best arrangement I can think of is v/t (neck), v/t (bridge), tre./bass (mid pot in the control cavity like it was originally)
Thats almost impossible to get a hold of, what you have seen is the older tct without the mid module and it has a passive tone... I have sort of the same thing only I have one stacked knob that is bass and passive tone..
I have a schematic of my classic 6 and that doesnt have the mid module you have and I even question if the tct module is really the same as yours. But here it is... Maybe use full maybe not.. I made this myself as there isn't any info on these old circuits...
Attachments
I meant to ask about the FUNCTION of the knobs rather than an actual diagram. My bad! Hopefully someone here would know. And thanks for the diagram! It might come in handy when I'm deciding where to put the tone pots in the arrangement.
Ah, well the one I believe is was treble + vol neck pu then mid + vol bridge pu and then bass + passive tone. Circuit should be the same as my '86 bass on those early basses.
Yes, that sounds right. My '86 fretless has:
Top knobs, from neck to bridge - Neck vol, bridge vol, passive tone.
Lower knobs - Treble boost, mid-boost, bass boost.
I think mid is cut only, but bass and treble is boost and cut.
EG
Top knobs, from neck to bridge - Neck vol, bridge vol, passive tone.
Lower knobs - Treble boost, mid-boost, bass boost.
I think mid is cut only, but bass and treble is boost and cut.
EG
Great! Thanks guys
I'm wondering how Mike was able to wire the bridge vol. and MID boost on a concentric pot with the vol. needing 250k pot and MID requiring 50k
I'm wondering how Mike was able to wire the bridge vol. and MID boost on a concentric pot with the vol. needing 250k pot and MID requiring 50k
geezez how I ever even actually took piks and put on computer is a feat worthy of the highest order coz I not smartest or sharpest tool in shed ,now mind you all sorts of wrong buttons have been pushed an a lot of anguish despair not recieveing any assistance now all I gotta do is show an share these images on here ,that step unknown ive looked in all the wrong places or the right places just really don't understand what things mean and never will its just not there unfortunately redneck upbringing so whats next is in others hands coz certainly outa mine lostMaralinga it sounds like you have a Toby Pro on your hands! Those are great basses and certainly a wonderful instrument to start out on
Does anyone know how the early three stacked-knob Tobiases were wired? I'm thinking of turning my Standard into a three stack bass with an active/pass. switch where the mid knob is now. The best arrangement I can think of is v/t (neck), v/t (bridge), tre./bass (mid pot in the control cavity like it was originally)
