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PA system Help - ska/reggae/funk band
- Thread starter Carrot22
- Start date
I personally don't like it.
Bridged amps usually run a bit hot and 15's don't reproduce vocals well... And I've had some problems with Crown in the past.
I would go with this:
QSC GX7 Stereo Power Amplifier: Shop Pro Audio & Other Musical Instruments | Musician's Friend
And this:
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A drive core xls2000 is about a $100.00 cheaper than two of the drivecore xls1000.
Plus it will be a pretty neat trick to get 1100 watts out of those amps running a single 8 ohm speaker. Try 700.
I would suggest you look at powered speakers. something like the QSC K10s or 12s or the JBL Prx612ms. They cost a little more than the unpowered option you are looking at but will sound better. Less weight and no need for an amp rack are some other advantages.
Just telling you what I was told. I'd surely trust a respected local engineer more than an internet expert.And of course they know more than the real engineers that design amps for a living.
Just telling you what I was told. I'd surely trust a respected local engineer more than an internet expert.
You do know how to read don't you.
Do a search. You can start with that link from Peavey that I posted earlier.Most soundmen agree that anything between 0.5 to 2x of the speaker's RMS rating is fine. If you're using no limiting more than 2x can be dangerous. Some well respected folks will tell you that 1.5x is your max if you have no limiter...
Experienced guys run as much as 8x power without any problems, but "don't try this at home."
I agree with your post.
The problem is unless you know what you are doing it is easy to have an "accident" and toast your speakers. This is why powered speakers are a good option. Less chance of blowing speakers because the amps are the proper size and have limiters already set.I agree with your post.
That's correct. People sometimes see powered 1x12's rated at 1000W, but there's a lot of limiting going on and those speakers are not getting more than 150-200W.
I usually recommend passive mixers/powered speakers to beginners. That's what I use and works great, but some people are a bit scared of powered speakers.
Actually, a poorly constructed active speaker can really be a problem, since all the vibration can make a capacitor or resistor go loose, but better ones come with silicone glue holding the electronics together...
Why are you being such a d i c k? Go screw with someone else.You do know how to read don't you.
Nice PM pal.
If you ever own a PA then come back and post. Until then you should leave the posts for people who actually know something about the topic, not the so called local experts who told you something you probably didn't understand.thanks for all the input everybody, clearly i need the help here haha
Anyone know the exact differences between the crown xti and xls series? These specs confuse me...
And Ive definitely decided to use 12's now after doing further research on it. Either the Yamaha s112's, C112V, or Electro-Voice ELX112Pm sounds good. If I need more bass Ill upgrade the bass amp or add sub or something.
Also, any input on the Yamaha MG mixer series?
Anyone know the exact differences between the crown xti and xls series? These specs confuse me...
And Ive definitely decided to use 12's now after doing further research on it. Either the Yamaha s112's, C112V, or Electro-Voice ELX112Pm sounds good. If I need more bass Ill upgrade the bass amp or add sub or something.
Also, any input on the Yamaha MG mixer series?
The PM was as nice as you deserved. I do own a PA. I don't claim to be an expert. I won't give advice unless I've heard it from someone I trust. Take your stupid remarks elsewhere.Nice PM pal.
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"Ideally you should pick an amplifier that can deliver power equal to twice the speaker's continuous IEC power rating. This means that a speaker with a "nominal impedance" of 8 ohms and a continuous IEC power rating of 350 watts will require an amplifier that can produce 700 watts into an 8 ohm load. For a stereo pair of speakers, the amplifier should be rated at 700 watts per channel into 8 ohms."
Straight from JBL.
"Ideally you should pick an amplifier that can deliver power equal to twice the speaker's continuous IEC power rating. This means that a speaker with a "nominal impedance" of 8 ohms and a continuous IEC power rating of 350 watts will require an amplifier that can produce 700 watts into an 8 ohm load. For a stereo pair of speakers, the amplifier should be rated at 700 watts per channel into 8 ohms."
Straight from JBL.
And if you had read the Peavey link I posted they said the exact same thing.
The continous rating of the Yamaha speaker is 250 watts. The OP was wanting to use 1100 watts. BTW since you have been doing some internet searching look up 215 PA cabs on a live sound forum. Classic case of buying with your eyes instead of your ears.Did your local experts reccomend them also?Wrong again.
Power handling for the s115v is 500 watts program and 1000 watts peak. I have the manual right here.
I purchased my s215v cabs because they produce more useable low end and they handle 1000 watts continuous and 2000 watts peak. Stop being a schmuck.
Wrong again.
Power handling for the s115v is 500 watts program and 1000 watts peak. I have the manual right here.
I don't want to enter the argument, but it seems that you repeat what you read/listen without much understanding of it.
The thermal rating of the S115V is 250W but it can't even handle that continuously because the speaker's Xmax will limit it's power handling to something around 100W.
Program and peak figures are totally meaningless.
And I'm afraid most 2x15's in the market are a waste of money and space. They can't handle bass and kick properly anyway and lack clarity on vocals. Subs and 12" tops are a much better sounding combo.
So, back to the point:
A speaker will only produce what it can produce. If you keep throwing power on it, it will stop being louder and will only heat up, leading to failure, or maybe jump to far and get damaged.
So basically: Stick to something around the speakers RMS rating, let's say between 0.5 and 1.5 and you'll be fine. Go crazy on watts and you'll be searching google for reconing kits soon.
So you're telling me program power, or rated power, or constant power as advertized by all SPEAKER AND CABINET manufacturers is 1/2 what they tell you it is. WHO BENEFITS FROM THAT SORT OF FALSE INFORMATION?
Read post #35.
The RMS or program rating of the s115v is 500 watts PROGRAM and 1000 watts PEAK. I just looked it up to be sure.
Until someone who positively knows his @$$ from Adam's comments in this thread, this is what I'll believe.
You're getting it wrong.
Program = 2xRMS
Peak = 2xProgram
You should look at the RMS power handling of speakers. The s115v happens to be 250W and you shouldn't be using much more than that.
So, every time you see PROGRAM power, cut that in half and that's the continuous THERMAL rating of that particular speaker. Manufacturers won't tell you about excursion because you wouldn't buy their speakers if you knew.
And who benefits from false information? Their CEO's pockets mostly.
