A company that sells a product isn't going to give you operating information that will destroy the product. That won't benefit the CEO at all.
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A company that sells a product isn't going to give you operating information that will destroy the product. That won't benefit the CEO at all.
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"Ideally you should pick an amplifier that can deliver power equal to twice the speaker's continuous IEC power rating. This means that a speaker with a "nominal impedance" of 8 ohms and a continuous IEC power rating of 350 watts will require an amplifier that can produce 700 watts into an 8 ohm load. For a stereo pair of speakers, the amplifier should be rated at 700 watts per channel into 8 ohms."
Straight from JBL.
Wrong again.
Power handling for the s115v is 500 watts program and 1000 watts peak. I have the manual right here.I purchased my s215v cabs because they produce more useable low end and they handle 1000 watts continuous and 2000 watts peak.
Stop being a schmuck.
BTW you are worried about blowing up power amps IIRC it is harder on an amp to run in bridge mode. It also doesn't matter where the gain knob is set on the amp you can still get full power if you boost the signal going into the amp. You have owned a PA for a week. I have 3 PAs and have ran sound for my bands and others for 25 years.And of course they know more than the real engineers that design amps for a living.![]()
I agree with your post.The problem is unless you know what you are doing it is easy to have an "accident" and toast your speakers. This is why powered speakers are a good option. Less chance of blowing speakers because the amps are the proper size and have limiters already set.
The PM was as nice as you deserved. I do own a PA. I don't claim to be an expert. I won't give advice unless I've heard it from someone I trust. Take your stupid remarks elsewhere.
You're getting it wrong.
Program = 2xRMS
Peak = 2xProgram
You should look at the RMS power handling of speakers. The s115v happens to be 250W and you shouldn't be using much more than that.
So, every time you see PROGRAM power, cut that in half and that's the continuous THERMAL rating of that particular speaker. Manufacturers won't tell you about excursion because you wouldn't buy their speakers if you knew.
And who benefits from false information? Their CEO's pockets mostly.
Okay. I give. I was of the impression that continuous and program were the same. It seems I have misunderstood how the speakers are rated. The information related to the wattage is misleading.
thanks for all the input everybody, clearly i need the help here haha
Anyone know the exact differences between the crown xti and xls series? These specs confuse me...
And Ive definitely decided to use 12's now after doing further research on it. Either the Yamaha s112's, C112V, or Electro-Voice ELX112Pm sounds good. If I need more bass Ill upgrade the bass amp or add sub or something.
Also, any input on the Yamaha MG mixer series?
Well, on the plus side, I have a spare amp, now. Honestly, I don't know what to do amp wise. I'm not sure if I should keep one the amps I have and run it stereo @ 525watts per side, or get a little bit larger amp.
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Well, on the plus side, I have a spare amp, now. Honestly, I don't know what to do amp wise. I'm not sure if I should keep one the amps I have and run it stereo @ 525watts per side, or get a little bit larger amp.
I'm glad I posted here, even though I made myself look stupid. It saved me.
Modulusman, your info was good. Your way of handling it was $#!+.
I'll keep it for a spare. I'm sending the aux sends to in ear monitors.You could use the spare amp for monitors. It is always a good idea to have spare equipment in case something fails.
1)assuming i go with the powered speakers, will I notice a large difference in the volume between the active 112 and 115? I understand that bass requires more wattage but as for the highs and lows, what will the main difference be?
No large difference volume wise, but the 12" will reproduce vocals better, while the 15" may be better for the lower notes of the keyboard and/or guitar.
2) assuming i go with the passive speakers for budget reasons
what amp would ya'll recommend i match for each one?
QSC GX5. Sounds great, very reliable and has a built in crossover if you get subs later.
I install PA systems for a living, and this is how I do it:
I always make sure the amp is capable of delivering more power than is needed for the speakers in question. I then find the "max" level that I can use with the desk faders at full, and adjust the amp levels to make sure it never goes beyond this point! You will find that many higher end brands com with protection plates that you can screw over the volume controls on the amp, I highly reccomend these are used.
REASON FOR THIS: A speaker can with stand a surge that is over it capabilities as long as this is not constant, that´s why manufacturers offer the RMS and peak. It is far more harmful for the speakers to constantly send a "clipped" signal from the amp, this will destroy speakers very quickly!
One important factor to consider though, is that this set up has no "bright red lights" to show you that you are over doing it, and you must judge the capability of the speakers by ear. A 500w amp does not mean it will always produce 250w @ 50% power.
One final reccomendation, if you want 2000w (for example) I would go with 4x500w rather than one big effort! You can always add more!!!!
The sad thing is you install PA systems for a living.And another guy who thinks the knobs on an amp are volume controls.The sad thing is you install PA systems for a living.
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Modulusman, do you have any idea at all how to give your opinion without being condescending? Around here, you'd get your @$$ kicked pretty regularly.And another guy who thinks the knobs on an amp are volume controls.The sad thing is you install PA systems for a living.
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