• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Pairing 1000W amp with 400W cab

Status
Not open for further replies.
I owned both the tube and mosfet. I thought the mosfet sounded better than the tube but I decided to get rid of it. Brhringer devices always have had a habit of dying on me. I’ll still k with Mesa, GK or I want to try a FormFactor Audio head sometime.

"How many who are taking potshots at the Bugera have actually tried one?".

I'd be willing to bet that most of the potshots aren't based on owning the models in question. Just the same general Behringer bashing. Did your Bugeras die? Mine didn't.
:D
 
Behringer is hit or miss. Had a VAmp Bass Pro for home recording for a time, not only was that a pretty damn nice bass pre, it was an incredible guitar pre as well. Killed it by dropping a screwdriver into it while changing the battery. That was probably eight years after buying it. Not Behringers fault. And their “tube amp emulator” guitar dirt box is one of the best sounding stomp boxes I have ever used. But it’s not terribly well made, none of their stuff really is, and that gives me a lot of pause with a bass amp, something that has to handle heat, a lot of electricity and vibration.

I bet it sounds better than the Peavey, as most things do. But I doubt it would last as long.

I think that the track record with the Veyrons might disagree. Mine seemed to be very well built and had a nice warranty which I never used.
 
I have a 4ohm 600watt rms 4x10 Marshall cab I paired to my peavey minimax that is rated at 500watt rms therefore I should be able to turn my amp near full without any issues.

You'd think so! But please allow me to shed some light on manufacturer's published wattage ratings for bass cabs.

Most consumer-grade cab manufacturers publish wattage ratings based on what amount of power will melt the voice coils (known as the "thermal" rating). Those manufacturers love to publish those ratings because the number sounds so impressive, especially to unsuspecting buyers. The real limiting factor with bass cabs isn't the thermal rating, but rather the *mechanical* rating (the limit of cone excursion). You won't find consumer-grade cab manufacturers publishing those wattage numbers! Goodness no! They want to keep those numbers hush hush! A safe rule of thumb to use is, the mechanical rating for consumer-grade cabs is about *half* of their thermal rating. So for a cab rated for 600 watts, you can expect to safely run 300 watts through it without much concern. Beyond that, the user is entering a higher risk scenario.

When I say "consumer-grade", I am referring to those commonly mass-produced cabs of various brands that you find all over the place. Their published wattage ratings are thermal, not mechanical. However, there are a few boutique cab builders that don't play that sneaky game. You can actually trust their published wattage ratings because they are more representative of what their cabs can actually handle. A few examples of those cab builders are Jim Bergantino, Alex Claber (Barefaced cabs), Duke LeJeune (Audiokinesis), and Greenboy (fEarful, fEarless).

That is why MDBass said what he said in post #17.

Hope that info helps! :thumbsup:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mili and krovx
Cabs are only up to Class C at the moment. So make sure when you go to Guitar Center or wherever to ask for a class c cab to go with your class d head.

As far as the Bugera Veyron, I bought an amp, not a name with a pre-conceived result.

Good, because the name is effing stupid.

B word LLC has a number of decent products, mainly since they bought up a bunch of formerly great companies and raided their IP. But the reason people don't OWN their stuff is because it's shoddily built, sounds like crap more often than not, and is about as unsexy as can be. I mean, I'm all for a nice simple utilitarian look, but the *b word* stuff mostly just looks like it was designed by someone with absolutely no sense of aesthetics whatsoever. So then you wonder what else they overlooked or cheaped out on, which usually happens to be just about everything.

OP, if you want a decent cheap head to go with your hartke cab, the ones to look at would be the TX600, The new Acoustic class Ds (there's a 300w and a 600w), or you may try to find some used SWR or Genz Benz stuff. Even an old Ampeg B3R or something would be better than the ones you're looking at. The Trace Elf is pretty cool for a small and simple head. Guitar Center used section always has TONS of cheap bass amp stuff online. And then you get 45 days to return it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mili
When I say "consumer-grade", I am referring to those commonly mass-produced cabs of various brands that you find all over the place. Their published wattage ratings are thermal, not mechanical. However, there are a few boutique cab builders that don't play that sneaky game. You can actually trust their published wattage ratings because they are more representative of what their cabs can actually handle. A few examples of those cab builders are Jim Bergantino, Alex Claber (Barefaced cabs), Duke LeJeune (Audiokinesis), and Greenboy (fEarful, fEarless).

That is why MDBass said what he said in post #17.

Hope that info helps! :thumbsup:

To clarify, we publish mechanical and thermal power handling specs on the Subway speakers, as was suggested by some TB members.
 
How exactly do you raid the IP of a company you bought? Sorry, your bias is showing... hard. And the thing about people not owning Veyrons is silly... because people obviously do own them.
:D

And I couldn't care less what the model name is... I care about how well it works for me. Then again I can understand if some folks stare at their amps... mine are usually behind me.

OP, if you want a very affordable head with nice features, better than average power and you've been on the internet recently the Veyrons are a good options. And while this may be someone's idea of no sense of aesthetics whatsoever, I disagree...

Veyron.jpg

I've definitely seen worse. Granted I don't want to have sex with it but that's not on my wishlist anyway.
;)
 
I'd say get the peavey minimax as opposed to the minimega it's 500@4ohm and u could crank it, any reason in particular you need 1000 watts if you do need 1000 I'd go all out whole new rig and never worry

the guy said the burgera is 1000w @8ohm
Famous last words:
“The guy said...”

It is possible to blow speakers with a amp that has a max rating less than that of the speakers.
I have a Rumble 200 combo so you’d think that the amp and speaker are well matched and the speaker will take whatever you throw at it. Not so. The amp is rated for 160 watts and the speaker, 300 watts. Under certain conditions of stupid EQ l can make the speaker fart out. So even if you are using the same type of watts measurement, and on paper the cab has a higher rating than the amp, there are no guarantees. Caution is always advised. If things don’t sound right, you need to back off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris76
Call me crazy, and I'm no fan of Behringers pro audio devices, but the aesthetics of the Veyron don't really seem offensive, at all. And I'm REAL shallow about aesthetics lol
 
Although its hard to hate on Behrninger now that they're using Midas design pre's in some of the new gear. The new X series stuff is undeniably kinda good.
 
Famous last words:
“The guy said...”

It is possible to blow speakers with a amp that has a max rating less than that of the speakers.
I have a Rumble 200 combo so you’d think that the amp and speaker are well matched and the speaker will take whatever you throw at it. Not so. The amp is rated for 160 watts and the speaker, 300 watts. Under certain conditions of stupid EQ l can make the speaker fart out. So even if you are using the same type of watts measurement, and on paper the cab has a higher rating than the amp, there are no guarantees. Caution is always advised. If things don’t sound right, you need to back off.

I get what you guys are saying I'm not arguing it, my point was and still is if someone says I'm going to run a 1000 watt amp in to a 400watt cab for headroom for the amp is not the right theory and that usually most people try and go the other way with cab having the higher rating. And I was just quoting the potential buyer I didn't know he was talking peak not rms.
 
^ I'm fine with massively overpowering a cabinet- If you use you ears, and a bit of common sense. My outdoor rig is 2400 REAL watts. My cabs might be 500. I never worry.

So far I've heard to be safe Your cab should double your amp, now ur saying ram 2400 watts through a 500 watt cab. I get there's no definitive answer as everyone has their own opinion. Mine is I try not to overpower my cab with my amp to be safe.
 
A few what... Veyrons?
:D

If not, like many, the critique lacks relevance. I personally know lots of folks with long term, trouble-free service from their Veyrons... including myself. It can happen, yet people perpetuate negative info for some strange reason. Why?

Veyrons can sound nice on gigs too. BTDT.

I have not tried the Veyron model, but I just don't trust Behringer enough to give them $500. And there are other options out there.
 
My experience is that many players do not have reasonable expectations and often damage speakers when powered beyond their ratings and even in some cases where they think they are within the ratings. Then there are the unfortunate accidents where something gets unplugged or causes loud pops and/or noises. With a speaker that's connected to a larger amp, the opportunity for damage is much higher.

This is my experience across many brands over several decades in this industry, which is why I am generally more conservative than others in my recommendations.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.