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Peavey Classic 400 - Mega Thread - Part II

SO- I'm taking the plunge and picking up one of these beasts tomorrow form a local seller. I have a question about using it with the speaker cabs I currently own, though. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
I'm fine with either very technical feedback (i.e.: 'ohms' "dampening" etc. ) or just general advice based on a player's experience. Both are useful.
I own a variety of cabs, but I'm expecting to use the Peavey 400 Classic with either one or both of my Epifani UL310 series one cabs. these are the biggest cabs I own and I've always appreciated the portability. These cabs are 5.3 ohms each, which is the issue. I read and re-read the sticky threads on matching and mismatching impedance with tube amps, and I think i know what to do, but I want to make sure I don't screw anything up and I'd like real-world advice from someone who is experienced with this particular amp.
I'm guessing that I should try to use one of my 5.3 ohm cabs with the 8 ohm speaker output or run both from the 4 ohm output. My logic is that with tube amps running below the intended impedence rating is safer than running above it.
I'd like to know what I'm risking and what the effect might be to power, sound quality and the life of the components in the amp.
Also- do you think these Epifani series I drivers in a ported box take this kind of punishment?
Thanks to all!
-Greg
(P.S. I'm also looking to hire a roadie now! Does anybody want to schlep this amp to my gig at Double door in Chicago? I'll buy you drinks... : ) )
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread. I was hoping for a little clarification on which preamp tubes are located where. On one of the early pages of the first thread, someone posted a diagram. But the diagram was different than what was actually in my amp. I basically want to know which tubes are V1 and V2.

Any help is appreciated.

If looking at the amp chassis from above, with the controls at the bottom, the preamps look something like this:

xxx
xxx

are they

123
456

321
654

or what?
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread. I was hoping for a little clarification on which preamp tubes are located where. On one of the early pages of the first thread, someone posted a diagram. But the diagram was different than what was actually in my amp. I basically want to know which tubes are V1 and V2.

Any help is appreciated.

If looking at the amp chassis from above, with the controls at the bottom, the preamps look something like this:

xxx
xxx

are they

123
456

321
654

or what?

If you want, I can provide you with a pdf file of the schematic along with the owners manual. Just PM me and leave your email address. I'll forward them along shortly afterwards.

TD
 
I have the manual (and the service manual), but neither describes which preamp tube is which (just by looking at the valves from the top of the chassis). I don't want to trace the circuit to figure it out, I'm just asking for a quick answer if anyone knows.
 
@ mofeezy; it's neither of the arrangements you used.

What it is:
456
123
X

Where X is your input jack. So V1 is the one closest to the input, and V6 is your phase inverter. When retubing the amp, spring for the money to get a BALANCED and gain-matched tube in V6; it really cleans up the power section and allows it to work efficiently.

I haven't heard a ton of tonal differences due to V3-V5, although V3 is susceptible to microphonics, so get a good non-microphonic tube there.

For V1 & V2, I've settled on the combination of a Tung Sol 12AX7A in V1 and a Sovtek 12AX7LPS in V2.

Bear in mind that I always use the amps with the channels combined, and I'm wanting a clean and clear sound out of my clean channel + smooth overdrive with subdued highs out of my crunch channel.
 
I'm playing just about anything and everything with this amp. Metal to classic rock, to pop or country. Yes it is a 810 tx. Initially I wasn't planning on keeping the cab, as it is a monster, but after playing through it for a while I will never get rid of it. The combo has low end for days. I have to dial it back at practice because the whole house shakes even at low volumes. It is incredibly warm and clean when I want it to be, but gritty and nasty when I dial it in. I really dig two channels, and being able to switch or combine the different sounds.
 
At one point I was using my Classic 400 with an 810TX and (yes, AND) a pair of Sunn 410H cabs from circa 1999. Nothing says "ROCK STAR" like sixteen 10" speakers barking at you. It also said "wildly impractical" and "befriend a chiropractor"...

I made a special speaker cable that ran all those cabs in series, so I could set the output transformer switch on 8 ohms and be safe.

The 810TX was cool sounding, but my pair of Sunns was even BIGGER sounding and much easier to haul around.

I definitely agree about the prodigious low end on this amp; it's the first amp EVER where I've had to cut lows!

I don't gig mine too often; I have a pre/power rig that's MUCH more portable -- but I'll bring the Classic out for big venues, when I've eaten my Wheaties/spinach, or when I want to impress people...
 
At one point I was using my Classic 400 with an 810TX and (yes, AND) a pair of Sunn 410H cabs from circa 1999....
I made a special speaker cable that ran all those cabs in series, so I could set the output transformer switch on 8 ohms and be safe.

How do you wire three cabinets to be 8 ohms? two 8ohm 410s in parallel, both of which are in series with the 4ohm 810?
 
How do you wire three cabinets to be 8 ohms? two 8ohm 410s in parallel, both of which are in series with the 4ohm 810?

Yes, exactly. The two Sunn's were run in parallel to present a 4-ohm load.

The cable connecting at the amp had + and -
+ went to one "stack"
- went to the other
Then + on one stack connected to - on the other

Bingo! Series connection.

I only used it for rehearsals because my band never played at Mile High, Pepsi Center or Red Rocks...
 
I dont think the stock tubes sound bad, but a lot of people have had good results with different brands. More to the point, that if the stock tubes are still in there and the head has seen a lot of time it may need a retube, which isnt cheap. So you might be able to use that as leverage on the price.

What do I need to look for? the brand I reckon? I think the pwr tubes are 6550's right?