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Peavey T-40 Club

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#422
MNAirHead said:
Nick.

Have you downloaded the manual and read it.

About 90% of folks haven't read how it's controlled... not like a PBass.

T.
Click to expand...

I know how it works. Over 8 on the tone it switches to a single coil.

What if you could split at will by just pushing and pulling the knob, then use the whole range of the pot for tone setting, whether you are in single or double coil mode?

What if you wanted to go single coils, but 0 on the tone?

With that type of setting it is possible.
 
#425
Nick.. you're probably on the right steps..

My T-40 takes HP to sound excellent.. OR I've gone direct to a recording board.

I've rarely needed the single/double controls.

A T-40 does take some playing to get used to.. the sound changes so quick..

Also takes a few string changes to find something you like.

T.
 
#426
NickInMesa said:
Eilif, on the T60 forum, they confirmed that plenty of owners replaced the tone pots with push / push or push / pull pots to do the splitting, so that they can have bright sound with double coils
Click to expand...

I'm sure you're right. My observation is not whether folks have switched them out, but rather whether the pot under the guard was anything more than a traditional potentiometer wired to take one coil in and out of the circut.

I've heard some speculation about special pots being used, but I've yet to see a picture of a t-40 with pots that are any different from any other bass, and I really don't want to open up my T-40.

Here's a diagram from SD showing the basic concept behind using a pot to fade out one coil. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I'm sure the t-40 circut is more complex, but it gets the idea across.
 
#427
I have to admit I am very confused by the T-40 wiring. I have never seen any passive guitar with that many wires and solder.

The soldering was also relatively amateurish. I don't think whoever was doing this was properly trained in how to solder. Quite a few blobs of solder in there.

If you unsolder, I would be careful, as there is probably lead in that solder.
 
#428
NickInMesa said:
I have to admit I am very confused by the T-40 wiring. I have never seen any passive guitar with that many wires and solder.

The soldering was also relatively amateurish. I don't think whoever was doing this was properly trained in how to solder. Quite a few blobs of solder in there.

If you unsolder, I would be careful, as there is probably lead in that solder.
Click to expand...


Almost if not all electrical solder from that (or any) era has lead in it.
 
#431
While the ad says swamp ash; I would be surprised if it were anything but northern ash - its heavier brother. The pieces are better matched than most T-40s. That truly is a pretty minty bass with a reasonable starting bid - it will be interesting to see where it ends up.
 
#432
This one should command top dollar. It's one of the rare 6 digit serial numbers, very early...though it doesn't have the tracing going around the truss rod cover. It also looks to have original strings noted by the light brown silk end windings. These were stock strings on the T-40. Wow. Wish I had the scratch for this.
 
#434
Scottpro1969 said:
This one should command top dollar. It's one of the rare 6 digit serial numbers, very early...though it doesn't have the tracing going around the truss rod cover. It also looks to have original strings noted by the light brown silk end windings. These were stock strings on the T-40. Wow. Wish I had the scratch for this.
Click to expand...

Yes, you can tell the strings are rusted. Note, if soaked in denatured alcohol for a few days, they may be saved and usable.

I have saved the strings that were on my Foundation for 10 years while the former owner had it in storage, and they play pretty awesome. I had to stretch them a little, though, but they had a bizarre growl.

If I were a collector full of cash I would probably buy it, and maybe just even play it.
 
#435
I just got my T-40 yesterday. It's simply beautiful. I put a new set of DR Highbeam .045's on it before I even plugged in. Playability is a 8.5 of a 10 in my opinion. The tone configurations can get confusing because there are so many configurations available. I was disapointed to find that the Pick up toggle had been changed from a 3 position to a 2 position switch. I can only play through the bridge or the neck pick ups. Im looking to get that changed quickly. When I was tuning Her up ,I noticed the intonation on the E and G strings were near perfect. LONG steady pitch. The A and D not so great.Also the tuner on the A is a little bent and needs retuning often. I could never gig with this till that is resolved. I actually feel more comfortable playing this bass than I did my Stingray.I found a copy of the T-40 owners manual on a site called retrievo.com. FREEEE!!!!! This is a very helpful when trying to figure out what freekin knob does what. Especially if modifications have been made such as on my bass. I can't wait to get off work and play it all night tonight.
 
#436
Bigbzbassline I too can only play one pickup at a time.

I will most certainly overhaul my electronics. I need to get this done right.

To the electronics expert: can capacitors go bad with time? I believe not, but I just want to be sure.

It's not the type of component that goes wrong over time. I got shocked by the flash capacitor of a disposable camera that was still in charge more than 10 years after it's last use.
 
#437
Capacitors can go bad over time. However, it is usually because of use over a long period of time. I took the back cover off my OLD big screen TV and there were HUGE warning stickers " HIGH VOLTAGE " stuck everywhere. I was told the capacitors deliver a big enough jolt to knock you out or even kill you. F that!! I will let somebody else mess with it.
 
#438
i recently bought a t-40 and within hours of having it i broke the pickup selector switch! been looking for a replacement for a while but can only find the flat type, mine is the later 80's model with the bat style switches, anyone got any idea where i can find one?

thanks
matt
 
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