Pork Loin mod

[gregmon79]

I’m sure either works. If I wasn’t so impatient I would do it properly, make it look like it was done at manufacturing, but as long as it works I don’t care what’s it looks like. Not having to de solder anything means I’m less likely to use too much heat on the PCB and possibly damaging something.
I will add that I’ve been playing with the PL a lot this weekend and don’t have an issue with the stock tone. I’m assuming I can dial some of the new brightness out if I don’t like/need it?

Yeah I hate desoldering too. Worst part for me. Not a good thing to not be good at.

Yeah you can dial that extra brightness in and out. I felt the mod had an overall effect on the sound as whole. It doesn’t make it too bright. It just makes it more clear. Or more presenced if that makes sense. But it still warms right up too.

 

[dave_bass5]

Cool, that sounds like something I will like. I’m going to try and get the cap tomorrow so hopefully ill have it done within the next 24 hours. I’m sooooo glad I got this pedal and decided to send the Darkglass Vintage ultra back. I never once felt the Ultra was worth the cost, even though it was nice. With the money I’ve saved ill probably get the Pork and Pickle as well.

 

[BadExample]

Thanks for the replies. Ill leave it in then.
John, that method was my first choice, thanks for confirming its ok to do that. Ive never de soldered anything on a PCB before so this way seems like the easiest option.

Since this is the first time for you solder on a board, I suggest getting a scrap about anything, taking a board out and doing some practice. A ceramic cap or a resistor is about the easiest thing to solder in. Desoldering is the harder part and where it's easy to damage the board. As you practice, look at the board with magnification and see if the traces are damaged, and look at the removed part to see if there is a tiny barrel looking thingy on one or both leads. That would be a feed through (AKA via), and it conducts between the top of the board and bottom (and sometimes inner layers, but I think not on the PL). Once you are able to desolder and resolder without damage, you're ready to go. If you snip the leads and solder onto the nubs, you don't need to be good at desoldering of course, but still do some practice soldering.

You want a fine tip soldering iron. I used a $20 tenma you can get from MCM, Parts Express, or allelectronics.com, the last being hit or miss for availability. Get lead flux core solder for electronics. Heat, flow and remove the heat quickly to avoid damage. On harder to reach two lead parts like this, there isn't anything to hold the part in. So what I do is just tack on one lead; just heat it, apply solder and just get a little puff of smoke from the flux. Maybe feed it 1/8" of solder. This just holds the part. Then solder the other side with enough solder to cover the pad well. Then go back to the tacked on side and add solder. This is done to ensure the cap stays still while solder solidifies, otherwise you get a cold solder joint which will fail later.

It's OK to leave the leads long on this one and have the cap stand 1/4" or even 1/2" off the board. That makes it easier to get to and solder from the top.

Maybe watch a few howto youtubes on board soldering.

THE BIGGER THE BLOB THE BETTER THE JOB does not apply here

It's not too hard, just takes a bit of practice. Old VCR, computer parts or about any junk electronics (avoid tube TVs and displays) that has a few caps on the board. If you don't have something goodwill or a neighbor will.

 

[mikeyjm2]

^^^
Solid advice

 

[dave_bass5]

Thanks, yes, very good advice.
Although its my first PCB I have done my own pup/pot changes for years, including adding in active electronics. I know its not quite the same but my point is I’m ok with soldering to an extent. I do have some very fine tips, and lead flux solder so I’m good to go.

 

[BadExample]

Ah, UK, no goodwill there. Maybe called a thrift store? You probably know what it is, but goodwill here is a charity and they take discarded stuff and sell it in their store to make revenue. I've heard of people scoring great bass amps and stuff... makes me stop by and look every week for a while before giving up

On the tone, I was actually thinking out loud about using a switch or even socketing the cap. I think it was John K himself who said you can get the original tone back by adjusting the inner pots. So I just went ahead and soldered it in and never looked back.

Good luck and let us know how it goes for you!

 

[gregmon79]

Cool, that sounds like something I will like. I’m going to try and get the cap tomorrow so hopefully ill have it done within the next 24 hours. I’m sooooo glad I got this pedal and decided to send the Darkglass Vintage ultra back. I never once felt the Ultra was worth the cost, even though it was nice. With the money I’ve saved ill probably get the Pork and Pickle as well.

Yeah I gotta admit, when I modded the pork loin I about slapped myself after I plugged it in and played it with the band. The pork loin has been here this whole time and I went through at least 30 to 40 different ODs, spend a ton, made some back, tried a few higher ends to the lowest. The PL ended up being the one for a bit. I still own and play it all the time and one day it could back as my primary OD. It’s great. On all fronts. And it sounds great with the band. I can use it with hard rock to Motown if I wanted. The only reason I’m not using it as my go-to atm is the MBD1. That pedal is just amazing imo. Got so much going for it. But the PL is up there with it imo. And it cost a hundo I think. The mod was like $4 and some time. But I know what you mean, it beats out most the higher end stuff I’ve played for different reasons. Not to say those other guys aren’t great too. But for what it is, the PL rules.

 

[gregmon79]

Ah, UK, no goodwill there. Maybe called a thrift store? You probably know what it is, but goodwill here is a charity and they take discarded stuff and sell it in their store to make revenue. I've heard of people scoring great bass amps and stuff... makes me stop by and look every week for a while before giving up

On the tone, I was actually thinking out loud about using a switch or even socketing the cap. I think it was John K himself who said you can get the original tone back by adjusting the inner pots. So I just went ahead and soldered it in and never looked back.

Good luck and let us know how it goes for you!

Somebody on here did that. Seemed pretty simple. I can’t remember who it was though....

 

[BadExample]

Then again, with my memory, it could have been @gregmon79 who said you can dial it back to stock sound

 

[gregmon79]

Then again, with my memory, it could have been @gregmon79 who said you can dial it back to stock sound

Yeah you can. At least I feel you can.

I was just searching for the mod someone here did with that switch. He actually wired both the caps to a 2 way switch I think it was and that’s how he went between stock and mod. I’ll keep looking

 

[gregmon79]

glad to hear that many of you have found the mod useful. I certainly like it much better with the top end mod and you can still get the original's tone by turning down the tone knob a little bit.

Here’s one thing John said anyway. Still looking for that pic he posted. The other guy I mean...

 

[gregmon79]

Well here is that switch mod that someone did to theirs to allow for the stock version and modded version. I'm sorry but I can't remember the specifics. Maybe someone here will be able to figure it out.....
View attachment 1054667

Here it is! I don’t even remember where I pulled this from now....dammit.

 

[dave_bass5]

Ah, UK, no goodwill there. Maybe called a thrift store? You probably know what it is, but goodwill here is a charity and they take discarded stuff and sell it in their store to make revenue. I've heard of people scoring great bass amps and stuff... makes me stop by and look every week for a while before giving up

On the tone, I was actually thinking out loud about using a switch or even socketing the cap. I think it was John K himself who said you can get the original tone back by adjusting the inner pots. So I just went ahead and soldered it in and never looked back.

Good luck and let us know how it goes for you!

I’m not sure if we have anything like that here, but I very rarely buy second hand so maybe we do.

Ive gone through the whole thread and it all seems clear what can be done, but I don’t think ill bother with a switch. The less I have to tweak the more life is easy.
As I’ve only had the PL for a few days I’m not yet attached to the tone, so a new, brighter one will be just as good. I play 99% with a pick so I just need to be careful of the top end ‘click’, I dont always like it, but I still like a bright tone.

I know for a fact ill be selling my DG VMT now.

 

[gregmon79]

I’m not sure if we have anything like that here, but I very rarely buy second hand so maybe we do.

Ive gone through the whole thread and it all seems clear what can be done, but I don’t think ill bother with a switch. The less I have to tweak the more life is easy.
As I’ve only had the PL for a few days I’m not yet attached to the tone, so a new, brighter one will be just as good. I play 99% with a pick so I just need to be careful of the top end ‘click’, I dont always like it, but I still like a bright tone.

I know for a fact ill be selling my DG VMT now.

I think you’ll be very happy with the results then. It’s not like it makes it this super bright. To me, I heard someone put it this way and thought it sounded pretty accurate, it’s like it removes the blanket from the overall tone. It gives it more presence. But it still remains nice and natural sounding. That’s what I like a lot about it. Most of the “natural” or “tubey” type drives like say the blueberry, get farty at a point. I love a little sag but there’s a point the blueberry got too saggy, too mushy for me. The PL stays strong and vibrant throughout. That’s a good word to use IME, it makes it more vibrant. The mod I mean.

 

[kleinenenten]

The Mods takes a great pedal and turns it into an absolutely fantastic one. Seriously, the only things I’ve heard that are even close after this mod are at least 2-3 times more expensive, and even then, not as versatile. This is the best all around OD I’ve ever played. I’ve said it many times, but this OD just works in so many different applications. It may not be “the” tone for a specific genre, but it will always sound dang good and always have a tone to get the job done. And when you dial in “your tone” on this thing, nothing can match it.

 

[dave_bass5]

Thanks guys.
Yeah, its a very natural sounding pedal. I was originally looking for something that didn’t sound as dark as my VMT, and while I found this in the VTBass DI and Joyo OJ neither seemed to work in tandem with the BDDI. I want ot leave the BDDI on all the time. The PL when it kicks in just seems to add a bit more body and dirt without me having to turn the BDDI off.
I do get the ‘blanket’ statement, and although it doesn’t bother me it’s nice to have the option of getting a bit more character out of it.
Ill post back later today once I’ve done the mod. I’m sure it will be all positive. Thanks for all the help.

 

[dave_bass5]

Me again.
Ive just done the most horrendous solder job I’ve ever seen, but its in lol. Being left handed I found it very awkward to do, but its in, tested and all put back together. I wil re do it at some point but for now I just want to play.
My thoughts are still on the fence at the moment, but I can definitely here the OD more, so that’s a good thing. I’m noticing a bit more hiss when using headphones, but I’m not worried about that too much. At least I have a use for that Tone knob now. So far I like it at about half way, where as before it was right up and never touched.

The only slight niggle I have is the new cap. I ordered the one I linked to yesterday, but what I got says 471K on it. Does this sound right? I cant find what out what that number means. I’m sure its the right one though.

Thanks again for all the help and encouragement.

 

[mikeyjm2]

what I got says 471K on it. Does this sound right?

Sounds right. The markings are generally in pF units with the last digit being the number of zeros. So 471 would be 4 and 7 with one zero after it, meaning 470pF.

Edit to add this link:

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[dave_bass5]

Sounds right. The markings are generally in pF units with the last digit being the number of zeros. So 471 would be 4 and 7 with one zero after it, meaning 470pF.

Edit to add this link:

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Thanks for the reply and link. Very helpful.

 

[ex-tension]

Thanks for the reply and link. Very helpful.

Also:
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