One major requirement for my tiny pedal board is everything self contained in one unit to grab & go, including power supply & all connections.
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Power supply on or off the pedalboard?
- Thread starter IvanDrummer
- Start date
There's another way to think about this problem -- starting from the top instead of underneath. While my pedalboard is simple, the main device is a Noble tube preamp/DI, which also has power plugs for five other devices. I always want Noble in the chain so the rest is easy!
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Or, if you are less competent with power tools and removing rivets, crazy glue works pretty well for securing the new feet! This is a PT Metro 16
I did this (plus a couple of washers for extra height) to my old Warwick rockboard (nano clone) as the feet weren’t tall enough. Works great now.I put some rubber feet from the local hardware store on my small board to get it high enough off the ground to get the power supply underneath
I’ve absolutely had venues that buzz like mad with a OneSpot, which are fine with the Cioks. Also if you’re running anything other than 9V it’s not suitable (I have both a THDI and Diamond comp which use higher voltages).
^^ @Fun Size Nick is right; the real benefit of the "big" supplies is dealing with bad/dirty electrical outlets mostly found at venues. At least in my experience. I also run sufficiently few pedals that I could get away with a OneSpot in most scenarios, but then those venues become a buzzy nightmare all night.
You don't have to spend millions, or buy a hulking beast though; there are lots of "overly engineered" power supplies in a decent variety of size and pricing. I mean, if one is gonna invest all that time and money into a nice board, why go and cheap out on the power supply that makes it all work? Seems an odd place to draw a line in the sand, given its importance, though I also get it's another investment one needs to make.
You don't have to spend millions, or buy a hulking beast though; there are lots of "overly engineered" power supplies in a decent variety of size and pricing. I mean, if one is gonna invest all that time and money into a nice board, why go and cheap out on the power supply that makes it all work? Seems an odd place to draw a line in the sand, given its importance, though I also get it's another investment one needs to make.
Thank you for repping Peppa
On the plus side, having the power supply separate gives you a chance at every gig to wire the power wrong, and blow up a pedal right before a gig. Hmmm - maybe that's not a plus....
For gigging, wall warts quickly get annoying. You often block the neighboring outlets with them. And when you do, you have that flimsy cable running on stage --- until someone steps on it, or trips and yanks it out.
I've started cheapest, then slowly worked my way up. When I arrived at a Cioks and all my problems disappeared and I stopped thinking about power supplies.
I've started cheapest, then slowly worked my way up. When I arrived at a Cioks and all my problems disappeared and I stopped thinking about power supplies.
To the Cioks users I want to say: put tape over those Voltage selector dip switches. They CAN shift by accident when packing or sliding over an uneven floor..('ask me how I know').
I'd say yes since this situation caused me to by a new pedalboard a month after my first one. Mounted under and Velcro on top I just add the pedals as needed for the gig. Most of the time it's just a wireless and a tuner ..other gigs I add a octave or a a di preamp when the casino demands no stage amps.
I know it looks sloppy, but I like to keep my power brick on top. I’m swapping pedals constantly, with different draws and voltages, and it’s just more convenient.
For my GTR pedal board, I have a small hammond enclosure with one mini jack and 1 barrel input and several outputs, which I connect to a 12v old laptop PS (with a mini jack or a barrel at the end). Inside is a 9V regulator 7809 that powers the outputs. Since it´s not a wall wart, it does not block other power outlets (which is a problem as mentioned by el murdoque). Laptop PS 12 to 20V are plenty at the local recycling.
I mentioned the isolating issue for some pedals. But I've used a 1spot for literally 20 years, built into a custom pedalboard with a standard removable power cable. Of course there are exceptions to every "rule".
I get that not everything runs at 9V. I've used a similar rig with a 1spot for literally 20 years. I've played all over the country in small clubs, outdoor festivals & concert stages. We've encountered all of the expected/unexpected power issues from improperly wired stages to generator power. I've never once had an issue.
Of course I just jinxed myself. lol
I think you have to go with whatever you trust. I've personally put mine to the test and have complete faith in it. We do carry a backup pedal board because we rarely use amps these days, so the pedal board is my life's blood. The only difference in the backup is there's an EH chorus pedal in place of the MXR.
I'm also using off the rack, easy to replace pedals. The boutique stuff is cool but they always seem to be less compatible with mass produced gear. Pros & cons of our preferences.
I'm also using off the rack, easy to replace pedals. The boutique stuff is cool but they always seem to be less compatible with mass produced gear. Pros & cons of our preferences.
With the Cioks DC-7 checking so many boxes in terms of low profile, a wide array of current draw and voltage options, and overall quality, I see no reason to upsize your board when you can stick a DC-7 under the Nano+.
That's what my board is.
I do like the BTPA lift kit just for a little more wiring room, but you don't NEED it.
That's what my board is.
I do like the BTPA lift kit just for a little more wiring room, but you don't NEED it.
If I had a Nano board, I would use pedals that worked without being isolated and use a 1-spot.
I used to have the same train of thought... then I bought a Radial BassBone. Whose bright idea was it to build an awesome bass centric pedal that needs 15v and is center positive? Plus the wallwart that came with it weighed more than the solid steel chassis of the BassBone.
That's how I ended up with a Cioks DC10, which I still have to this day (plus a DC5 and a DC7).
Sold the BassBone a few years ago.
I have a pretty nasty ground loop hum in my place exacerbated by a number of dimmers all on the same circuit. If I want to plug in any pedals, they need to be isolated. Lots of pops, crosstalk, and phantom wooshing when daisy chained. Fixing the root cause of the problem is going to be a big project.
