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Pre-Slotted/Pre-Radiused Fingerboards

#43
You can find the PSA stick on paper for less on ebay or amazon. I actually cheaped out and double-stick taped regular paper on my wood radius block. I used belt-sander belts cut into long strips for the coarse paper grades. I traded money for time, I guess. The hard part about radiusing is keeping it consistent. I made a simple jig just wider than the radius block, a trough the neck sat in so the radius block couldn't wander. I tried really hard to keep even strokes without pressing harder at any point along the way, which would "dish" the board, but still got a very slightly uneven cut. I've heard of people putting a weight on the block and pushing back and forth on the ends only, haven't tried that. Most of the more experienced builders use radius router jigs, haven't tried that yet either. I think the aluminum beam is good enough, no way you'll deflect that with ordinary hand pressure, and they put a nice consistent level on frets without the "facets" a straight beam leaves that have to be blended in.
 
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#44
To me, radius blocks are useful as roughing tools. A relatively short radius block with 80 grit paper on it will quickly rough off most of the wood and bring the surface down to close to the final shape. From there, it's straight flat sanding blocks of 100, 220, and 400 grit, a straight edge, and a radius gauge. The primary goal is to get the string paths straight and true, using the flat sanding blocks. Then you blend the areas between the string paths, rolling the straight blocks and checking regularly against the radius gauge.

A special routing fixture, like I use, takes the place of the radius block. It's faster and more accurate in getting the surface very close to the right shape. But the final truing is still done with flat blocks and a straight edge, concentrating on the string paths.
 
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#47
I've used it long enough that I feel good about recommending it (keep in mind I'm a real amateur.) The glue on it is even stickier than the 3M paper, but that's even better for removal and re-attaching. The only problem is that the store doesn't have anything finer than 320. I don't know if it comes any finer (say for fret leveling.)
 
#48
rwkeating said:
I've used it long enough that I feel good about recommending it (keep in mind I'm a real amateur.) The glue on it is even stickier than the 3M paper, but that's even better for removal and re-attaching. The only problem is that the store doesn't have anything finer than 320. I don't know if it comes any finer (say for fret leveling.)
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Thanks, I really appreciate it! I'm in the same amateur boat as you :).
 
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#51
Bruce Johnson said:
You bring up a good point. If you buy a pre-radiused pre-slotted fingerboard, and glue it onto your neck, it will probably still need to have the surface touched up. It's difficult (not impossible, but difficult) to glue a radiused fingerboard onto a neck and have it end up true and straight. Having it pre-radiused gets the shape close, but you should still lightly level it along the string paths to make sure that it doesn't have any lumps or dips. You can do that with a straight flat block; you don't need a radius block.
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Hi @Bruce Johnson, @Fender_Bender, or anyone else,

I'm going over my plan for next steps and I've ordered a pre-slotted / radiused board from LMI. Very stoked! it's #2 in the pic (nice Indian Rosewood I must say):

fretboard.jpg


Regarding next steps with pins either like the method @FunkyMan Modern 5 Strings Bass Build!

Or I've seen videos of folks nailing down on the neck itself, clipping off the heads, and using them to push the fretboard down...

When gluing it up, should I make a radiused caul to go on top for even pressure or will the flex of the clamp's rubber head do the trick? It'll be a 16" radius (if that detail matters).

Thanks for any advice you may have time for :)
 
#52
I made radiused cauls lined with sheet cork, so it didn't have to be perfect. I used clipped nails and it STILL crept a hair during glueup, so don't skimp on that. Oh, and don't forget to take the tape off the trussrod slot right AFTER you have all the clamps on, and then yank it all apart in a frenzy. Personal Experience!
 
#53
Gilmourisgod said:
I made radiused cauls lined with sheet cork, so it didn't have to be perfect. I used clipped nails and it STILL crept a hair during glueup, so don't skimp on that. Oh, and don't forget to take the tape off the trussrod slot right AFTER you have all the clamps on, and then yank it all apart in a frenzy. Personal Experience!
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Thanks for sharing G!

Wondering how to make these radius cauls.
Should they be perfectly at the radi?
I might be able to get cheaper wood radius blocks. You know me, it’s either hard to fab what’s needed due to lacking in experience and tools, and low budget.

I’m a bit confused by what you said:

“take the tape off the trussrod slot right AFTER you have all the clamps on”.

If I have it glued up and clamped with the tape over the slot, is the operation to remove it all then re-seat the fretboard and re-clamp after that quickly? Thanks :)
 
#54
I phrased that badly, what I meant to say was that I FORGOT to take the tape off right after this shot was taken, glued and clamped the FB on, remembered the tape was still on, and had to yank it all off in a foul-mouthed frenzy. Exciting! You can see my home-brew radius cauls and my wood radius sanding block with sheet cork double-stick taped to them. I got the radius close on the cauls an relied on the cork to make up the slop.
yxP3EO7.jpg
 
#55
Gilmourisgod said:
I phrased that badly, what I meant to say was that I FORGOT to take the tape off right after this shot was taken, glued and clamped the FB on, remembered the tape was still on, and had to yank it all off in a foul-mouthed frenzy. Exciting! You can see my home-brew radius cauls and my wood radius sanding block with sheet cork double-stick taped to them. I got the radius close on the cauls an relied on the cork to make up the slop.
View attachment 2772323
Click to expand...

Very good, no worries :)

I’m thinking I need at least one 16” radius sanding block now, but I’m not sure it’s 100% necessary for this neck since I’ll already have the fb radiused by LMI. I might b able to use the fretboard itself as a mold to make a caul out of some other material....hmmm. Off to the ponder hitherland - LOL!!!!

Also does everyone recommend I leave it clamped on for a few days, then install frets right after?

For this one I’m going back to the drawing board and the neck won’t be shaped, carved yet. Just flat and headstock angled on the top. Similar to the state that FunkyMan has it in my link above..
 
#56
That’s how I made my cauls, can’t make a 10” radius cove cut on a 10” saw, so I got close and then used some bondo infill, pressed onto the radiused board with wax paper to form the bondo to 10” radius. If you haven’t bought a sanding beam yet, consider a 24” beam, then that becomes your caul. The Stewmac aluminum ones are very nice, but $$$$. You can use them to level frets too. For all the time and hassle, wish I’d just Bit the bullet and bought one.
 
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#57
chinjazz said:
Very good, no worries :)

I’m thinking I need at least one 16” radius sanding block now, but I’m not sure it’s 100% necessary for this neck since I’ll already have the fb radiused by LMI. I might b able to use the fretboard itself as a mold to make a caul out of some other material....hmmm. Off to the ponder hitherland - LOL!!!!

Also does everyone recommend I leave it clamped on for a few days, then install frets right after?

For this one I’m going back to the drawing board and the neck won’t be shaped, carved yet. Just flat and headstock angled on the top. Similar to the state that FunkyMan has it in my link above..
Click to expand...


what are you doing for a truss rod?

random fwiw's:

-use some plastic or wood dowels to pin your board to your neck. if you or someone else ever has to plane off the fretboard, the oldschool "nail" tactic will dent a plane iron.

-use a non-water based glue. controversial for sure, but i just don't like introducing water into a neck.

-protect the truss rod slot from adhesive. i use .0025 x 1/2" Kapton tape and cut a little trench for it to lay in over the slot.
 
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#58
Gilmourisgod said:
That’s how I made my cauls, can’t make a 10” radius cove cut on a 10” saw, so I got close and then used some bondo infill, pressed onto the radiused board with wax paper to form the bondo to 10” radius. If you haven’t bought a sanding beam yet, consider a 24” beam, then that becomes your caul. The Stewmac aluminum ones are very nice, but $$$$. You can use them to level frets too. For all the time and hassle, wish I’d just Bit the bullet and bought one.
Click to expand...

I like that bondo idea! Didn’t you get a 24” sanding beam from some not so known on line source?
 
#59
16" radius is fairly flat. To get an idea of how flat, drive a small nail through a piece of scrap wood and drill a small hole 16" away from it for a pencil tip and draw out a decent sized arc. For a glue caul You may be able to get away with a cork lined flat board with a layer or two of duct tape strips underneath the outer sides to build them up a bit. Remember the steps mentioned before to keep the board from sliding around on the glue and I'm sure you'll have success.
 
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#60
Fender_Bender said:
16" radius is fairly flat. To get an idea of how flat, drive a small nail through a piece of scrap wood and drill a small hole 16" away from it for a pencil tip and draw out a decent sized arc. For a glue caul You may be able to get away with a cork lined flat board with a layer or two of duct tape strips underneath the outer sides to build them up a bit. Remember the steps mentioned before to keep the board from sliding around on the glue and I'm sure you'll have success.
Click to expand...

Awesome tip @Fender_Bender!

I’ll definitely look into that technique :)
 

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