Pre-Slotted/Pre-Radiused Fingerboards

[chinjazz]

what are you doing for a truss rod?

random fwiw's:

-use some plastic or wood dowels to pin your board to your neck. if you or someone else ever has to plane off the fretboard, the oldschool "nail" tactic will dent a plane iron.

-use a non-water based glue. controversial for sure, but i just don't like introducing water into a neck.

-protect the truss rod slot from adhesive. i use .0025 x 1/2" Kapton tape and cut a little trench for it to lay in over the slot.

Are you saying I could go the same route as is done with these LMI locating pins:

Locating Pins & Drills

But with plastic or wood dowels?

I was basically looking to copy the concept but with thin Brad nails.

I’ll be using LMI yellow glue for the FB.

Question in your truss rod Kapton tape method: Are you leaving that tape in?

Thanks for the insights

 

[Arie X]

Are you saying I could go the same route as is done with these LMI locating pins:

Locating Pins & Drills

But with plastic or wood dowels?

I was basically looking to copy the concept but with thin Brad nails.

I’ll be using LMI yellow glue for the FB.

Question in your truss rod Kapton tape method: Are you leaving that tape in?

Thanks for the insights

remember my post about your scarf joint? i basically use my template to place pins as described in the Flickr album.

sure the lmi/pin/brad thing will work as well -it's just not for me.

yep, the tape stays in. keeps adhesive from getting down into the truss rod slot and either robbing the joint of glue, or packing up the truss rod with epoxy/glue. i mill a .003~.005 deep channel for it.

 

[rwkeating]

There are folks that remove the tape over the truss rod before gluing on the fingerboard and those that leave it on. I've asked about this before and couldn't get a clear consensus on the "right way". Seems like they both may be correct.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I didn't want to have to route a channel the thickness of tape into the neck top, and figured leaving the tape in was a bad idea somehow. When you take the tape off, and tighten the fingerboard down, I figure it oozes a little closer to the trussrod slot for more glue area. That's my half-baked theory, anyway! At any rate, my trussrod shows no sign of being glued in, and the FB seems likes it's on there for good, so I'll call that a success. I've seen people on TB use toothpicks, no reason that shouldn't work too I guess. I used Titebond, figured I could steam it off again if I catastrophically effed-up.

 

[Arie X]

i've seen builds where people have packed the slot (with the tr installed) with paper, or aluminum foil, or RTV and -glued it up.

 

[chinjazz]

Thanks everyone for the reality check on to leave tape in or take it out. One of those things that seems to work either way. With the TR I’m going to use it’s got that blue seal around it so it would be fine.

And all the other tips and feedback, thanks so much!

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I bought my rod from BBG, same blue tape wrapping, so I assume one Chinese company is selling them through multiple vendors. Mine had a very sloppy fit 4mm hex key, try yours before you install. I probably just got a dud. I’ve been trying to find a 4.5mm hex I can file down a little for a tight fit.

 

[Fender_Bender]

I use the "brads in slots" technique and yankthem out afterward. The tape I remove if for no other reason than to maximize the glued down area. You just have to be judicious with how much glue you use (best to use a brush).The only time I encountered a problem was the one time I used epoxy. Since then I've just used good quality yellow glue. I understand the concern about introducing moisture but 99% of people use common water based glue.

 

[chinjazz]

I bought my rod from BBG, same blue tape wrapping, so I assume one Chinese company is selling them through multiple vendors. Mine had a very sloppy fit 4mm hex key, try yours before you install. I probably just got a dud. I’ve been trying to find a 4.5mm hex I can file down a little for a tight fit.

Thanks for that advice. Sorry about that issue! I checked this one out and it performs well. I actually have an SX neck with what I think is the same TR and at one point I cranked it with the wrong size hex and I felt like I did some stripping on it. I hadn’t realized that there was an inner part that was the right spot. Since at the time I didn’t have the right hex I brought it to a guy in town who showed me what was up.

 

[chinjazz]

I use the "brads in slots" technique and yankthem out afterward. The tape I remove if for no other reason than to maximize the glued down area. You just have to be judicious with how much glue you use (best to use a brush).The only time I encountered a problem was the one time I used epoxy. Since then I've just used good quality yellow glue. I understand the concern about introducing moisture but 99% of people use common water based glue.

That technique with brads you have sounds right up my alley! I have no worries with this LMI glued as it seems stronger than regular TB. Under a heat gun I held its ground like a rock when I was trying to separate a maple top. I doubt I’ll ever epoxy a FB on based on what I’ve heard.

Awesome thanks!

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Just so you know, I use epoxy (West Systems) to glue on all of the fingerboards on my basses, and most client necks with very hard fingerboards like ebony and cocobolo. On some of my clients' necks, like Mike Lipe's for example, I use the LMI glue. There are pros and cons and tradeoffs to either glue. The epoxy is stronger and more reliable, particularly on dense oily woods. But it's more expensive, difficult to un-glue, takes longer to cure, and leaves an amber glue line on light colored woods. The LMI glue is pretty strong, fast and easy to use, can be un-glued, and is invisible at the glue line on maple.

You'll be fine with the LMI glue for your project.

There are many techniques for pinning a fingerboard so it doesn't slip while clamped. I don't normally do it, because most of the time I'm gluing on a flat blank board; I usually do the radiusing and slotting after it's glued on. I leave the board slightly oversized and trim it to size as a last step.

But, if you need to pin it, another quick technique is to use staples. Use a staple gun to pop a staple into the neck top surface, one at either end. Then use your wire cutters to clip them off, leaving the two legs sticking up maybe 1/16", with sharp chisel points. Apply the glue and line them up carefully as you press them together. The staple legs will push into the fingerboard and keep them aligned while clamping.

 

[RBS_Johnson]

Just so you know, I use epoxy (West Systems) to glue on all of the fingerboards on my basses, and most client necks with very hard fingerboards like ebony and cocobolo.

Hey Bruce, is there anything you don't use West Systems Epoxy on? I see you see you recommend it often.

-Jake

 

[chinjazz]

Just so you know, I use epoxy (West Systems) to glue on all of the fingerboards on my basses, and most client necks with very hard fingerboards like ebony and cocobolo. On some of my clients' necks, like Mike Lipe's for example, I use the LMI glue. There are pros and cons and tradeoffs to either glue. The epoxy is stronger and more reliable, particularly on dense oily woods. But it's more expensive, difficult to un-glue, takes longer to cure, and leaves an amber glue line on light colored woods. The LMI glue is pretty strong, fast and easy to use, can be un-glued, and is invisible at the glue line on maple.

You'll be fine with the LMI glue for your project.

There are many techniques for pinning a fingerboard so it doesn't slip while clamped. I don't normally do it, because most of the time I'm gluing on a flat blank board; I usually do the radiusing and slotting after it's glued on. I leave the board slightly oversized and trim it to size as a last step.

But, if you need to pin it, another quick technique is to use staples. Use a staple gun to pop a staple into the neck top surface, one at either end. Then use your wire cutters to clip them off, leaving the two legs sticking up maybe 1/16", with sharp chisel points. Apply the glue and line them up carefully as you press them together. The staple legs will push into the fingerboard and keep them aligned while clamping.

Thanks For the insight on epoxy / LMI glue.

I venture to guess at some point I’ll figure Radiusing into my routine. That staple method seems pretty good too!

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Hey Bruce, is there anything you don't use West Systems Epoxy on? I see you see you recommend it often.

-Jake

Yeah, I know, I sound like a sales rep. I do use West Systems for almost all of the structural joints on my own basses. I also use it for filler repairs on vintage instruments, grain filling in some woods, and for some casting operations in making pickups and marker dots. I've been using it for over 25 years. I've tested its limits. But, yes, there are some jobs where I use LMI's glue and a few other types.

 

[rwkeating]

Is there an epoxy comparable to West Systems that is available in smaller quantities? I would love to find something locally. I've only seen West System epoxy available in sizes that I'd never use in my entire lifetime

 

[Arie X]

Is there an epoxy comparable to West Systems that is available in smaller quantities? I would love to find something locally. I've only seen West System epoxy available in sizes that I'd never use in my entire lifetime

BSI (Bob Smith) epoxy.

For when you just don't need to construct a boat hull...

 

[chinjazz]

Hey Folks,
I'm finally just getting ready to glue on the pre-radiused/slotted fretboard.

- Good to go on my pin locating technique (using some 3/32 brass rod material).
- Using a Bondo shaped, cork capped caul.​

Questions:

After glue up, and given it's pre-radiused with no frets in it yet is it advisable to let the neck sit free of clamps? For a few days before I would trim the neck to final width?
Have the truss rod keeping everything straight, or leave the truss rod loose?
Just wanting to not have un-wanted travel or things of that nature. The laminated neck blank is straight as a "board"now..
Also needing to know ahead of time so I wouldn't have to all of a sudden install frets right immediately after trimming to final width. I would make my fret bender jig now - ahead of time.
I see a lot of build threads but no mention of timing, waiting between steps..​

Thanks for any feedback

Cheers!

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Let it be free! Letting it sit for a few days before fretting it isn't a bad idea anyway. If it's going to move or bow or something, you want to know about it. So you can correct it before you go farther.

If you really want to do the job right, tighten the truss rod partway and let it sit for a few days. Then check it and see what it does. Leaving the truss rod partly tight, true up the fingerboard surface, making it flat. Then put in the frets and level them, still keeping the truss rod partly tight.

That's the formula for a stable neck that can be finely adjusted: With the strings off and the truss rod maybe halfway tight, the fingerboard should be flat and the frets level.

 

[chinjazz]

Let it be free! Letting it sit for a few days before fretting it isn't a bad idea anyway. If it's going to move or bow or something, you want to know about it. So you can correct it before you go farther.

If you really want to do the job right, tighten the truss rod partway and let it sit for a few days. Then check it and see what it does. Leaving the truss rod partly tight, true up the fingerboard surface, making it flat. Then put in the frets and level them, still keeping the truss rod partly tight.

That's the formula for a stable neck that can be finely adjusted: With the strings off and the truss rod maybe halfway tight, the fingerboard should be flat and the frets level.

Excellent, thanks!
It’s always a pleasure learning from your expert advise.
I’ll definitey tighten the tr part way and leter sit for a few days. This will also give me time to work on these other things
I definitely like to get a good plan in place before hand because I always try to avoid making irreversible mistakes. Even though making necks is more involved than solid bodies, I find the challenge more rewarding in a way.
Cheers!

 

[rwkeating]

If you really want to do the job right, tighten the truss rod partway and let it sit for a few days. Then check it and see what it does. Leaving the truss rod partly tight, true up the fingerboard surface, making it flat. Then put in the frets and level them, still keeping the truss rod partly tight.

Is that advice the same for both dual action and single action truss rods?