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Precision neck ... Suggestions

I know the Q is for the OP, but I have done that as a way to spread the cost and the fun over a long period of time. This one took nearly 5 years to go from Vintage Modified Squier to the version pictured below. The neck is Allparts by the way but I mostly use Warmoth parts now.

There was no reason to replace the body. The original neck had the truss rod pop through the fingerboard, so it needed to be changed (I use really high tension strings).

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drooldrool
Can we please have a thread about this bass?
 
So I don't know if I'm getting more confused or what LOL

So all of you agree with the high quality of the Warmoth necks , but other alternatives can be just as good with musickraft and USA custom guitars (never heard of the 2 up until today)

And Mighty Might is cheap, not AS good but good enough .....

I haveconsider had it not been such a cheap bass. I'm learning to do these things ...

But oil advise and finish is , I think, beyond my talent.

I want a neck that will feel as natural to me as my MM stingray neck ,maybe a little thinner (as per one of the warmoth options)

However there are some "options" on musickraft that are unknown to me (FB. Radius , fingerboard style - slub , FB EDGES) ... Not to mention the sized that I don't really know how to measure since I'm familiar with the metric system only.
 
Wow! That is pretty amazing. Probably has 2001 different tones! :)
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I know the Q is for the OP, but I have done that as a way to spread the cost and the fun over a long period of time. This one took nearly 5 years to go from Vintage Modified Squier to the version pictured below. The neck is Allparts by the way but I mostly use Warmoth parts now.

There was no reason to replace the body. The original neck had the truss rod pop through the fingerboard, so it needed to be changed (I use really high tension strings).

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That's one way to lighten a Squier body, but you need an FAA license to play it!
 
And Mighty Might is cheap, not AS good but good enough .....

IMO Mighty Mite is as good as any except for Warmoth and USACG. I thin they're better than Fender, WAY better than Squier. The reason I think is that Warmoth and USACG are much better is that they have stabilizing rods inside the neck. Those are nice, eliminate dead spots but add weight - sometimes as much as a pound. If you're not looking for top of the line, then Warmoth et al might not be for you.

But oil advise and finish is , I think, beyond my talent.

I use something called TruOil for neck finishes. It was developed for gunstocks, and is basically a wipe-on enamel/lacquer. It seals the neck. Look it up here. It's beautiful, durable, and feels almost like wood.

I want a neck that will feel as natural to me as my MM stingray neck ,maybe a little thinner (as per one of the warmoth options)

Yeah, the last MM neck I played was pretty chunky. I am not a fan, I prefer slim.

FB. Radius

That is the "flatness" of the fingerboard. The higher the radius number, the flatter the fingerboard. Old Fenders used a very round 7.5" radius. Modern Fenders use a 9.5" radius. I can't tell the diff between 9.5" and 10" that Warmoth et al use . I believe Squiers are in the 10" range. As I recall, MM uses a 12" radius, which is a good modern compromise. My preference is for a 16" board - very flat. If you want to convert, just convert inches to mm - 10" radius = 254mm radius.

fingerboard style - slub
actually that said slab. as opposed to the neck being made from a single solid piece of wood. A slab fretboard is the only way to get a neck with a fingerboard that is a different material than the neck body/shaft.


what it says, the edges of the neck are more rounded or less rounded. More rounded is probably more comfortable.

Not to mention the sized that I don't really know how to measure since I'm familiar with the metric system only.

C'mon, you can do a conversion... google is your firend.
but fyi: standard P bass necks are a little wider at the nut, usually 1.625", than Jazz necks, which are 1.5" wide at the nut. it's only 1/8". but you can really feel it. MM necks tend to be more P-bass like than Jazz bass like.
 
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I got my PJ for 185$
Then pickups were 140$
Hipshot tuners 100$
Gotoh bridge 30$
I think the strap holders were about 15$

So by now I spent 470$

The neck will be the most expensive upgrade ...
That is one classy looking instrument. I'm going to keep that look in my mind's eye for a future project. A very, very future project -- gotta finish the current one first!
 
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Warmoth necks aren't necessarily heavy. Roasted maple and grapite rods help - the best necks I've ever played. They don't come cheap, though - the ones I get are about $400. To me, worth it, but maybe not for everyone.
I have a roasted maple with steel rods sitting right next to me and believe me, it's on the heavy side. But you are right - roasting makes it lighter, as do graphite rods.
 
I got myself a Squier Affinity PJ as a project ...
I replaced everything but the body and neck ... Got EMG GZR PJ pickups , Gotoh bridge , Hipshot tuners and even the strap thing was replaced by Schaler clip ...
I'm pretty happy with the results , and I'm ready for the next level ... The neck !!!

Is it just me seeing a parallel with the ship of Theseus here?

Anyway sounds like a cool bass :)
 
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Please pardon my ignorance on these matters but why are you pouring a fortune into a beginner budget bass. Would a stock American Fender be better, or better resale value?

In the end, what I'm planning on doing with my Affinity (i'm in same situation as OP, just at the very beginning of the project) will still be a few hundred cheaper than a MIA fender, and it'll have all my desired alterations. It didn't make sense to me to start with a super expensive bass if I was going to change out the bridge, pickups, tuners, etc. Also, for "tinkerers" like me, it's about the journey just as much as the destination -- I actively enjoy the process of hunting down the parts I want and designing the bass to my specs. Also, I never sell anything, so resale isn't an issue for me.

MIA Fenders are, of course, amazing instruments.
 
In the end, what I'm planning on doing with my Affinity (i'm in same situation as OP, just at the very beginning of the project) will still be a few hundred cheaper than a MIA fender, and it'll have all my desired alterations. It didn't make sense to me to start with a super expensive bass if I was going to change out the bridge, pickups, tuners, etc. Also, for "tinkerers" like me, it's about the journey just as much as the destination -- I actively enjoy the process of hunting down the parts I want and designing the bass to my specs. Also, I never sell anything, so resale isn't an issue for me.

MIA Fenders are, of course, amazing instruments.
Having done this myself on an Affinity Jazz, I have to say that in the end it was a failed experiment. I liked the Affinity at first, it played great, but at the end of the journey, it just didn't sound like a good Jazz bass - I reckoned it was the woods involved, because Lord knows it had the best parts. I returned it back to stock and sold it.

Now, I usually build 'em from scratch - Buy the neck, sometimes buy the body, and go from there. I usually have a goal in mind... currently, it's to make as lightweight a P-bass as possible. Current project has a Mighty Mite neck and a Warmoth dinky-P body (bought the body rather than built is because I could predict the weight better that way). And 2 pickups rather than just the P. All put together, it weighs 6 lbs 15 oz. without finish. That starts tomorrow. And it plays and sounds really great.

As for the neck - I chose Mighty Mite specifically because it is a good neck and is lightweight. and inexpensive. I like this bass a lot so far.

Would a Warmoth neck be better? It would certainly play better out of the box, and would certainly be heavier - making the 3 lb body a neck-diver. but I have yet to do any fretwork so the Mighty Mite might be killer.
 
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A question for those of you with roasted maple necks:
Do you have a roasted maple fingerboard on it? If so, how does the "texture" of the fretboard feel compared to a rosewood or lacquered regular maple fretboard?
Mine has rosewood. and i LOVE the feel of the roasted maple on the back. Highly recommended, especially for people who live in areas like Florida where the weather is a killer for wood.