Love it!
I almost bought a set of threaded barrels the other week off Amazon. Specifically, the E-A-three thread/D-G-four thread types they use on the current American Standards. Sadly, they seem to have sold out, so I'll keep on lookin'.
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Precision "upgrades" that should be stock on new model - poll
- Thread starter MarkoYYZ
- Start date
Love it!
I almost bought a set of threaded barrels the other week off Amazon. Specifically, the E-A-three thread/D-G-four thread types they use on the current American Standards. Sadly, they seem to have sold out, so I'll keep on lookin'.
I don't get #1. I started playing Fender basses in 1965, and I've never had a problem with playing open strings on a Fender bass. This includes the A string.
I voted for better string tree, jazz profile neck and jack on the side. The jazz profile neck thing I could take or leave, but it would be a nice option and certainly a popular one. The other two are notable issues for me with every Fender Precision I've owned.
Wrap any string the standard 2.5 wraps around the A post & then play an open A. There will be an audible ringing coming from the headstock. It won't be amplified, but you can hear it acoustically. It's due to the break angle being too shallow over the nut. Wrapping it extra can fix the issue, but Fender really should address this on more basses than just the Am Dlx series.
Related to this, why do people complain about reversing a P, but never angling a J?
Truss rod wheel, improved string tree, and jack on the side of the body - in that order. The latter only because I worry about the pickguard breaking, I do like the current location otherwise.
First, I've never heard of a 2.5 wrap rule. That's just silly. Wrap the strings to the bottom of the post and they work just fine. Second, who cares if there is an audible ringing coming form the headstock (which I have never heard), if it isn't amplified. As far as I'm concerned this is a non-issue. YMMV.
I think what he's referring to is that the break angle on the A is typically different from the other 3 strings.
The E is close to the nut and breaks fairly sharply, while the A is off on its own, too far away to break at an angle similar to the E and no other means to guide it, as was done with the string tree for the D and G strings. Look at the poll and it's pretty clear other people find this to be an area that more attention could be paid.
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The E is close to the nut and breaks fairly sharply, while the A is off on its own, too far away to break at an angle similar to the E and no other means to guide it, as was done with the string tree for the D and G strings. Look at the poll and it's pretty clear other people find this to be an area that more attention could be paid.
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If you're wrapping to the bottom of the post, you're not following the "correct" procedure. You are following the correct procedure to eliminate the issue, though.
The pickguard issue is the only thing I would "fix" on a Fender P, but that wasn't an option. My solution would not be to move it to the side, but I won't go into details.
Who said 2.5 wraps was the correct procedure. That sounds like a rule you made up.If you're wrapping to the bottom of the post, you're not following the "correct" procedure. You are following the correct procedure to eliminate the issue, though.
I wish they'd improve the string tree for ALL basses without a tilted headstock. And someone from Fender, please do something about that darn notorious A-string buzz!
Here's 1 link, among many.Who said 2.5 wraps was the correct procedure. That sounds like a rule you made up.
It's not MY rule. lolInvalid Link Removed
The 2 peg measurement system ends up being 2-2.5 wraps.
The pickguard issue is a non-issue if you loop your cable through your strap.
Also has the benefit of not pulling your cable out of your jack if you snag it.
Truss rod wheel at the heel
Reverse P option (when I say option, I want the bass to be routed for both. Not one or the other)
J neck option
Thankfully I can easily get all of this and a whole lot more from plenty of other builders.
Reverse P option (when I say option, I want the bass to be routed for both. Not one or the other)
J neck option
Thankfully I can easily get all of this and a whole lot more from plenty of other builders.
The pickguard issue is a non-issue if you loop your cable through your strap.
I always do that - even playing at home! With a decent Switchcraft jack in, though, it feels like the guard is pulling a little whenever I unplug - it's probably a non-issue, but would be my third choice out of the list.
It's a long way behind the truss rod wheel in my priorities, though!
Mine isn't on there either... Bridge with easily adjustable mutes for each string (like on the Stingray classics)... Or at least SOMEONE shod make this aftermarket... Especially considering this is THE bass known for being historically played with foam muted strings...
I'd just like to be able to turn the mute on or off without having to remove an ashtray cover every time... It's only been 63 years, they'll get around to it I'm sure... Lol
Geddy Lee Jazz Club - Member #222
I'd just like to be able to turn the mute on or off without having to remove an ashtray cover every time... It's only been 63 years, they'll get around to it I'm sure... Lol
Geddy Lee Jazz Club - Member #222
Here's 1 link, among many.
Invalid Link Removed
The 2 peg measurement system ends up being 2-2.5 wraps.
Whatever. Following a rule that doesn't work for you is pretty lame, if you ask me. If you don't mind, I'll stick with my rule of doing it the correct way.
X2.
I use Warmoth P bodies routed for JJ pickups.
My JJ and PJ basses have P bodies and J necks.
G&L and Yamaha have offered P style bodies with JJ pickups, why not Fender.
