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Precision "upgrades" that should be stock on new model - poll

Select a max of 3 that you think could/should be stock on a Pbass.

  • 21 (or more) fret neck

    Votes: 70 26.9%

  • Truss rod wheel at heel

    Votes: 122 46.9%

  • Drop tuner on E string

    Votes: 40 15.4%

  • Reverse P pickup option

    Votes: 67 25.8%

  • Better string tree for ADG strings

    Votes: 79 30.4%

  • Upgraded nut material

    Votes: 76 29.2%

  • Make Jazz profile necks optional

    Votes: 128 49.2%

  • 2 Jazz pickups on the P body

    Votes: 19 7.3%

  • A bound Aerodyne style P

    Votes: 15 5.8%

  • Put the jack on the side of the body

    Votes: 63 24.2%
  • Total voters
    260
#141
i don't see it on here, but for my nickel I would prefer to have the bridge and pickup covers - when applicable - in a separate plastic bag with the screws. That way, if you decide you DON'T want them installed, you don't have the unsightly screw holes in the body after removal.

As far as I am concerned the pick guard should be the same, unmounted, but a perfect fit with your choice of screws or mounting tape included on the side - and you should be able to choose the color/pattern. Along with this, ZERO unsightly body routs under the pick guard so if you leave it off the bass still looks stellar.

BassHappy
 
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#142
That would mean running the controls from the backside, with long enough shafts to exceed the pickguard.

I think that's a separate model from one that has a route that allows you to reverse the P.

Anyone seen or have experience with using magnets to hold down control or cavity covers? Or would it mess with the electronics?
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#144
MarkoYYZ said:
That would mean running the controls from the backside, with long enough shafts to exceed the pickguard.

I think that's a separate model from one that has a route that allows you to reverse the P.

Anyone seen or have experience with using magnets to hold down control or cavity covers? Or would it mess with the electronics?
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Click to expand...
Magnets: Dingwalls do this with rear control plates.
 
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#147
BassHappy said:
Yup

Exactly what I am suggesting. Rout from the back and make it convertible - pick guard or no pick guard, your choice.

BassHappy
Click to expand...
From a manufacturing standpoint, it probably makes more sense to do either/or instead of both/and with the pickguard/no pickguard thing. Pot shafts and knob height become problematic. Easy enough to engineer a solution, but if end up having to use non-standard parts, it would probably drive up cost a bit. I may be biased - I think a jazz bass with no pickguard (or control plate) looks fine, but a P bass with no pickguard looks barren. I think you may agree to some degree, because I think your pickguardless P has some pin striping to dress it up a little. Seems like there may be a car with similar pin striping, too.
 
#148
wvbass said:
From a manufacturing standpoint, it probably makes more sense to do either/or instead of both/and with the pickguard/no pickguard thing. Pot shafts and knob height become problematic. Easy enough to engineer a solution, but if end up having to use non-standard parts, it would probably drive up cost a bit. I may be biased - I think a jazz bass with no pickguard (or control plate) looks fine, but a P bass with no pickguard looks barren. I think you may agree to some degree, because I think your pickguardless P has some pin striping to dress it up a little. Seems like there may be a car with similar pin striping, too.
Click to expand...

Hey WV

Hope you are having a great weekend!

Wasn't really making reference to the manufacturing process or the problems my crazy, off the wall ideas might create - simply mentioning what I would like to see - in the spirit of the poll and the question asked.

I am a wood guy and find it hard in almost all cases to cover up nice wood with cheap plastic. It doesn't make sense to me and isn't in my DNA. in early 1973 I immediately replaced the plastic pick guard on my natural finish swamp ash 72 Jazz with a nice leather one I tooled as soon as I got it new in Germany. When I bought my new Rick in 1975, I replaced the plastic with a mahogany one that contrasted nicely with the mapleglo body. Since day one - I have always been a wood guy, plain and simple.

The instruments I own which are already painted and already have the pick guard and the screw holes, I leave it. It is a much better choice to me than fugly screw holes. If you have a painted body and are skipping the interest that nice wood grain might add or create - then a pick guard is pretty essential to create a little contrast and to try to make the bass at least look presentable.

Just my opinion and as always, I doubt that many would agree....Lots on hear love that "automotive" type paint finish with big plastic.

As I always say, one person's jewel is another person's yawn.

BassHappy
 
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#149
I'm surprised nobody has suggested shielding. I always hear about P pups being naturally humbucking, which is true, buy they still buzz like the dickens! I started shielding my basses last month and the basses sound like different instruments. Shielding paint is easy and very effective. Copper tape on the underside of the pickguard and inside the plastic pickup covers. Still takes me 3 hours. Worth every minute.
 
#150
BassHappy said:
Hey WV

Hope you are having a great weekend!

Wasn't really making reference to the manufacturing process or the problems my crazy, off the wall ideas might create - simply mentioning what I would like to see - in the spirit of the poll and the question asked.

I am a wood guy and find it hard in almost all cases to cover up nice wood with cheap plastic. It doesn't make sense to me and isn't in my DNA. in early 1973 I immediately replaced the plastic pick guard on my natural finish swamp ash 72 Jazz with a nice leather one I tooled as soon as I got it new in Germany. When I bought my new Rick in 1975, I replaced the plastic with a mahogany one that contrasted nicely with the mapleglo body. Since day one - I have always been a wood guy, plain and simple.

The instruments I own which are already painted and already have the pick guard and the screw holes, I leave it. It is a much better choice to me than fugly screw holes. If you have a painted body and are skipping the interest that nice wood grain might add or create - then a pick guard is pretty essential to create a little contrast and to try to make the bass at least look presentable.

Just my opinion and as always, I doubt that many would agree....Lots on hear love that "automotive" type paint finish with big plastic.

As I always say, one person's jewel is another person's yawn.

BassHappy
Click to expand...

Trust me, I'm not questioning your taste in basses. I've seen the pictures so I know better! :) As for me, I'm so used to seeing a white vinyl pickguard that anything else looks odd to me. The only exception is natural ash, and then black and tort looks okay. The black guard on my Mendel P looks unnatural to me; white would look much better, but I doubt I will ever change it. Unfortunately, changing the pickguard won't make me play or sound better.

To contribute on topic a little, I haven't been able to get my hands on one, but based on specs, the American Deluxe should be a nice "P bass with options." PJ pickups with preamp. 21 frets - and only a modest change to the lower cutaway to accommodate this change. I think extra frets on a P bass is like boobies on a mule, but some people find it important. The nut it 1.625, which isn't at all bad, but it might be nice if they shaved it down a little bit.

With the American Standards, I wish they'd lay off the "tuxedo" look on the black and white ones. I think white/white and black/black look much better than white/black and black white. I'm not sure I'd make this an "option," but it would be nice to see batches ship with different body and pickguard color combinations. Of course, I play a pink (burgundy mist Urge I) bass for years, followed by a purple (midnight wine) Am Std Jazz, so color combinations aren't a deal maker or breaker for me.
 
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#154
I just wanted to reply here to say thank you to everyone who took the time to vote in the poll - seems it was over 250 posters, which is quite a lot. We got a little sidetracked with discussion about how the existing P should not be changed (which was never my intention), but a more clear thread title or question in the OP on my part would have gone a long way to prevent that.

I wanted to change a couple of the poll questions, but once votes started to accumulate, I didn't want to edit anything because it resets the results to zero. There was really about 20 questions that could have been asked with respect to finishes, hardware, neck radius, etc... but this was really helpful.

I'm going to build P type bass with all of the voted options, aside from 2, 8 and 9 and share the results here.
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