• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Project: THUNDER-BACKER

#41
While we are waiting for Rojo's further progress, a little light entertainment featuring Men of Genius cooking some Thanksgiving supper down at the Lodge, cause the Gals said "screw it, we are having Ladies Night Out at the 99 this year, the Boys can fend for themselves". They must have strained the Chunks out of the Chunky Bluecheese to get it to mist properly in the spray bottle.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

A bit premature, but check out Santy Claws coming over the back fence at the Lodge to deliver Holiday Cheer and milk in a hamster feeder. These guys have their Holiday Merriment needs COVERED:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: rojo412
#42
rojo412 said:
Though I've lacked some updates, I have done some work. Here's the board slotted:

View attachment 4065728
I was working on the truss channel yesterday as well, but didn't get any pics and am still wrestling with some minor details. Once that is more concrete, I'll post some pics.

The holiday, as well as lockdown orders around the area, are making the acquisition of "wing wood" a little tougher these days. I have backup plans in order, but definitely need to see about that soon. After the turkey and black Friday madness subside, at least.
Click to expand...

Lookin' good! Be safe out there!
 
  • Like
Reactions: rojo412
#43
One of the things I think D and I would both like on this bass? A rock solid neck. So here's how that's going to be accomplished:

IMG_8365.jpg

IMG_8366.jpg

Yup... 4 graphite support rods. Just like Spector uses.
(Although Stuart pronounces it like "grah-FEET.")
 
  • Like
Reactions: jtlee, MattZilla, 41hzthunder and 5 others
#47
Essentially, the stiffer the neck, the less string energy it absorbs, leaving more of it for the pickups to sense. That's good in my book! Are you at all concerned about not being able to get enough relief for playability? I built a guitar like that once. I was very grateful that I had the foresight to use a double-action rod, so that I could twist it anti-clockwise and force some relief into it. And that neck was just a three-piece maple, albeit with a thick carve.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gilmourisgod and BritFunk
#48
It will have a DA rod, for sure. I've done the 4 in a neck or two in the past and never had an issue.
I did actually just epoxy these in place. Pics will follow shortly.

I was initially planning on NOT doing a template to shape the neck (all the way through the body), but feel WAY more comfy if I do. It's the matter of me lugging the 4x4' piece of 3/4" MDF out to the table saw to cut a neck sized board, then making that the right dimensions. Sounds like that's my task for tomorrow!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 41hzthunder, TerribleTim68, postalflunkie and 3 others
#49
I'm Template Boy, cause otherwise I screw it up! I've gotten away with bondo repairs on painted basses, not so much on stained wood. I have a 4' section of 3/4" plywood i jointed flat and straight, but a Harbor Freight level might be as good for neck beams, never actually checked mine to see how straight it is.Watching other builders, I am getting really itchy to build again but gotta finish all my drawings and Wood scrounging first, thats harder and more expensive these days.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 41hzthunder and TerribleTim68
#50
HA! Template boy, that's awesome :roflmao:
For some reason, I'm picturing Robin in some sort of suit with MDF all over it. But hey, maybe that makes me weird, I don't know...

My straight beam is actually a piece of a display that was at a bike shop where I used to work. It was this aluminum framework, extruded hollow I-beam kind of thing, which held a vinyl sign. It's been a godsend for all of the necks and other straight project needs. But if I were to replace it, I'd likely look for something similar from that "80/20" company which sells custom extruded aluminum sections for building stuff like this:

Screen Shot 2020-12-06 at 9.49.00 AM.png

I hear it's VERY straight and you can get sections of it in a number of profiles for not a terrible amount of money. A 1x1" section like this that's 4' long would be $13 + shipping:

Screen Shot 2020-12-06 at 9.52.55 AM.png

With the slots, it could even be mounted or somehow bolstered better than the "clamps and/or double sided tape" that I currently use with the beam. And I'd bet it's stronger than most levels.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jtlee, franksidebottom, handofseven and 4 others
#51
I love it when it suddenly occurs to me "hey, I could use that widget for bass building!" I bought an aluminum fret leveling beam and only after thought to check an old cast aluminum level I inherited, that thing is dead straight, and perfectly flat, now I have two beams. :)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: BritFunk
#52
Okay, I made a template for the neck/beam area:

IMG_8411.jpg

With that done, I started to trim up the back of the neck and headstock area... only to realize that would make it impossible to screw the top of the headstock part of the template to sacrificial wood. DOH!
Lesson learned.

The solution I came up with was, install a 1/4" piece of MDF on the template that would fit in the groove of the truss channel and keep the template secure in that area, using TB3 and tacks. I could then screw the template down into the beam where pickup cavities will be in the near future.
That allows me to mount the template to the whole thing, flip it over and use the guide bearing bit on the table to cut the rough shape.

IMG_8423.jpg


"But why not just screw the cutoffs back onto the headstock area on the other sacrificial area, then mount it to that already-cut piece and just throw it all out later, therefor not having to altar your template?"

Thank you, Hindsight! I just got that idea when typing this.
Oh well, right? No wrong answers if it works, I guess.

And while I didn't get the neck cut to shape with this system in place just yet, I did manage to get some wood for the wings:

IMG_8429.jpg


"You should have posted a less blurry picture..."

Shut up, Hindsight. I've had enough of you :mad:
 
  • Like
Reactions: jtlee, wraub, cholyoke and 4 others
#59
Let the neck games begin!
Started trimming this beam up and the weight reduction was immediately felt and appreciated. Started with the bandsaw...

IMG_8430.jpg


Then flipped it over and gradually milled it off with the guide bit...
IMG_8431.jpg

IMG_8432.jpg


Then I installed some "pins" to keep it steady for glue up, roughed up the Richlite surface with coarse paper (don't skip this step because I've had Richlite pop off before... TWICE. It's fickle and smooth), the applied a generous amount of West Systems epoxy...

IMG_8434.jpg


I also used some of the neck off-cut to add the wings to the headstock

IMG_8435.jpg


And that should be cured already, since that was yesterday afternoon's activity. Though I'm pretty occupied today, so it won't hurt to leave this baby in the clamps as long as I can't make it back down there.

I was kind of worrying myself about the headstock and cutting in the tilt, making it flat and even, etc. But despite difficulties in my head about it, I'm pretty sure I've got a few different methods to make it work just fine. More on that story as it develops.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jtlee, wraub, franksidebottom and 4 others
#60
I just bought a Richlite board from LMI, is epoxy the recommended glue for this? I've never used it, will be watching your lead. What are you using for headstock angle? It was around 5 degrees on my Ric builds, which allows the headstock to not touch anything when laid on its back, but I think stock Rics are more like 8 degrees.
 
  • Like
Reactions: handofseven

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back