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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
- Start date
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- club
The rustoleum clear gloss lacquer buffs out as good as anything else out there.
Question for you fine folks - if I have a body with a glossy clear finish, how much do I need to sand it back before thinking about priming coats? Should I go all the way down through the sealer to the wood? Or just enough so it's rough enough for the primer to stick? How would I know when I'm there, in that case?
Thanks!
The body in question -
Thanks!
The body in question -
Just rough enough is fine. That’s all I’ve ever done with mine. I usually do a couple passes with 350 dry and call it a day.
Same here…350-400 rough all that will get painted then clean it well b-4 prime.
Just to be clear, y'all mean work up to 350 sequentially, right? IE start with coarse grain (60 eg) and work up to 350?
Nope I just fully hit all the surface with 350 or 400 (whatever I have) to give it some “tooth” as a prep for prime/paint then wipe it thoroughly with a tack cloth
or even a CLEAN micro fiber towel. GL!
Oh! That's much easier! Thanks for the advice!
Second attempt on this Fury. First refinish (five years ago!) was bronze and included the maple control plate. I was never completely happy with how that paint job turned out though.
This one may no longer qualify here as the Land Rover Corris Gray and matte clear are proper automotive paint and were applied with an HVLP gun. The GM medium green metallic used for the stripes did come from a rattle can though so maybe?
I'm backpainting a clear TRC with some Tamiya modelers paint made for plastic. I found a very good match for my white binding under around 8 coats of Tru Oil, sort of a pale cream. The only drying time info I can find online says 24 hour "cure", but I can't find anything on recoat time. Nothing specific on the can itself either. Anybody do any plastic model painting who can advise me? Otherwise I just wait 24 hours between coats, which seems like overkill.....
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Funny, I came to post this project and see the Friskinator recently used the same color! I was originally going for a faded satin fiesta red, but finding that color wasn't happening, so I went with Rustoleum coral instead. It's more pink than I anticipated but for my first bass spray project I'm pretty happy with the results. Initially, it had an orange peal finish and I was super bummed. After some reading, I tried No.7 polishing compound with a denim rags. This smoothed down the orange peal and gave it the satin finish I was looking for.
Just wide enough for the strings. It's a parts bass I got for super cheap, thrown together in a confusing way by the previous owner. The Bart j neck pickup is actually bridge width. Sounds great though, as goofy as it is.
I know it does not exist without pictures , but I've taken a Faux Fodera 5 string Yin Yang bass and in the process of painting it Hammered Metal Gold (Rustoleum ) and replacing the garbage wiring/pickups with "real" EMG's (non soder kit). I will try to take pictures this time .
