Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
- Start date
-
- Tags
- club
I'm interested in using John Deere Blitz Black on my bass. Would I need to use a clear coat on this - like maybe a satin clear coat?
A clear coat will add shine. Leave it uncoated for the full flat effect.
More pics:
Invalid Link Removed
A clear coat will add shine. Leave it uncoated for the full flat effect.
More pics:
Invalid Link Removed
That settles it. Blitz Black body and headstock, and I'll probably hit it with some coats of satin clear coat. Now I need to work out what my headstock decal is going to be...
Just discovered that there are some clear flat aerosols available - Krylon, Valspar, etc.
You might do some compatibility tests to see if they play nice with your paint.
Minwax Polycrylic might be. I know that almost nothing is compatible with Krylon colors, but the Polycrylic worked fine.
Yeah, I read that you can paint over Blitz Black with another enamel paint. Valspar makes JD Blitz Black and also makes a satin clear coat, so I'm going to go for that. Mainly it's for the headstock since I want to put on a headstock decal and need to cover it with a clear coat.
I'm loving the idea of using this paint because I originally thought of using automotive lacquer and the toal paint cost was going to be over $100. I think I'll be able to complete this refin for around $30.
I'm going to be using John Deere Blitz Black paint which probably has a round spray pattern. I'm not concerned about spraying the front and back surfaces, but how do you spray the sides and especially the horns without runs or overspray?
What I end up doing is edging in the sides first. Spray a few light coats going from front to back of the bass. Once the sides of the bass have color then you can paint the front and back. The last coat I spray is on the front of the bass and I turn in so it's flat. This is where a rotisserie is really helpful. My last coat on the front I lay on heavy so it gets that wet look.
With flat black you really just want to make sure you get even coverage. If you normally spray at 12 inches stay back even further and dust the paint on.
The key is keep moving if you pause the paint can build up really quickly. Lots of light coats and dont get in a hurry. It also depends on the paints some are thicker than others. You could look for a s.e.m. Black primer that would help with coverage it's about $15 in a can
Hope this helps
With flat black you really just want to make sure you get even coverage. If you normally spray at 12 inches stay back even further and dust the paint on.
The key is keep moving if you pause the paint can build up really quickly. Lots of light coats and dont get in a hurry. It also depends on the paints some are thicker than others. You could look for a s.e.m. Black primer that would help with coverage it's about $15 in a can
Hope this helps
I'm tempted to do something which would earn me membership. I have a bass which is painted with bed liner spray in black. It's cool but I like bright colors, have some time on my hands this week, and will probably be picking up another bass in a couple of weeks so it will be OK if this one has a bit of downtime for a refin.
I know it's possible to overspray a liner with a color, or even color + clear to make it more glossy. But I need some advice. How to prep it, what paint, how many coats etc?
The bass is about eight years old and the textured finish is quite dusty in spots, so I guess first I'd need to clean it off really well with alcohol or something?
I know it's possible to overspray a liner with a color, or even color + clear to make it more glossy. But I need some advice. How to prep it, what paint, how many coats etc?
The bass is about eight years old and the textured finish is quite dusty in spots, so I guess first I'd need to clean it off really well with alcohol or something?
Cleanliness and correct sanding is most important to get the next color to adhere. As a minimum, you've got to get every trace of dirt-dust-beer out of the voids before you do anything.
Painting over bed liner huh?
Dunnow about that - that's a new one to me, but perhaps the Krylon for plastics is the answer.
I think the bed liner is a polyurethane, and not a polyvinyl, so that may work. Then again, the Krylon for plastics is a nasty product to work with in and of itself.
It hates to re-coat itself and will craze and make a nasty surface if you wait more than a few minutes between coats.
I don't care if the label says you can wait 24 hours for the next coat if you miss the first re-coat window - it's not going to like going over itself any time in the next week or month even!
Of course - this already has a nasty surface on it and any future rejection of the Krylon color by subsequent coverage won't show badly at all.
Maybe.
But I know what you're dealing with here. I once painted a wide black-out stripe on the hood of a ('67) Cougar XR7 for a friend with black wrinkle finish and it looked great --------- for a few days. Then the dirt settled in.
Painting over bed liner huh?
Dunnow about that - that's a new one to me, but perhaps the Krylon for plastics is the answer.
I think the bed liner is a polyurethane, and not a polyvinyl, so that may work. Then again, the Krylon for plastics is a nasty product to work with in and of itself.
It hates to re-coat itself and will craze and make a nasty surface if you wait more than a few minutes between coats.
I don't care if the label says you can wait 24 hours for the next coat if you miss the first re-coat window - it's not going to like going over itself any time in the next week or month even!
Of course - this already has a nasty surface on it and any future rejection of the Krylon color by subsequent coverage won't show badly at all.
Maybe.
But I know what you're dealing with here. I once painted a wide black-out stripe on the hood of a ('67) Cougar XR7 for a friend with black wrinkle finish and it looked great --------- for a few days. Then the dirt settled in.
Haha, exactly, a rough surface already - what's the worst that could happen? That's pretty much my thinking here. Maybe I'll just try spraying some bright red racing stripes and spraying the pickup covers to match. That should be enough to make it look less like the best bass for metal.
The bed liner should be polyurethane, I'm pretty sure. It's not as rough as a real truck bed because it was sprayed from a closer distance, but definitely textured.
The bed liner should be polyurethane, I'm pretty sure. It's not as rough as a real truck bed because it was sprayed from a closer distance, but definitely textured.
I refinished my bass in Krylon Blue Ocean Breeze and have done a lot of reading to find a clear coat that will work with this kind of enamel but still be polishable. Invalid Link Removed:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Apparently it hardens and polishes like nitro with nitro clarity, but won't react with enamel paints because it's water based.
Here's how my bass looks now before the clear coat:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Apparently it hardens and polishes like nitro with nitro clarity, but won't react with enamel paints because it's water based.
Here's how my bass looks now before the clear coat:
Wow - wotth checking out.
Speaking of 'checking' though ------(sad story follows):::
I built a new body for an old guitar (sorry - it's a guitar) and I merrily applied three coats of the Krylon on it, making sure to follow the directions to the minute!
In less than one year, it had alligatored and shows the most amazing "Surface Of Mars" effect.
Not that I WANTED it to look like Mars during a draught!
There's an incompatibility there somewhere, and although there hasn't ever been a clear coat on it (yet) to have caused this effect - I'm gonna have to re-strip it and go at it again.
That Krylon stuff is super suspect for me!
Wow - worth checking out!.
Speaking of 'checking' though ------(sad story follows):::
I built a new body for an old guitar (sorry - it's a guitar) and I merrily applied three coats of the Krylon on it, making sure to follow the directions to the minute!
In less than one year, it had alligatored and shows the most amazing "Surface Of Mars" effect.
Not that I WANTED it to look like Mars during a draught!
There's an incompatibility there somewhere, and although there hasn't ever been a clear coat on it (yet) to have caused this effect - I'm gonna have to re-strip it and go at it again.
That Krylon stuff is super suspect for me!
Wow - wotth checking out.
Speaking of 'checking' though ------(sad story follows):::
I built a new body for an old guitar (sorry - it's a guitar) and I merrily applied three coats of the Krylon on it, making sure to follow the directions to the minute!
In less than one year, it had alligatored and shows the most amazing "Surface Of Mars" effect.
Not that I WANTED it to look like Mars during a draught!
There's an incompatibility there somewhere, and although there hasn't ever been a clear coat on it (yet) to have caused this effect - I'm gonna have to re-strip it and go at it again.
That Krylon stuff is super suspect for me!
That's weird! I wonder what would have caused that paint to do that? I'm hoping that the clear coat protects my color coats from getting messed up. Did you use a sanding sealer on the wood? It's possible that oils from the wood reacted to the paint over time? I dunno.
