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Rattle Can Refinish Club

#321
Well, I ended up getting some cheap orange spraypaint for plastics and not really refinishing my bass, just painting a few racing stripes on the top. I figured bedliner and racing stripes keeps the automotive theme. I left a black stripe down the center so I could just tape over the pot and switch which meant I didn't even have to take the electronics out.

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The edges are fuzzy, but they were even worse - it takes a lot of paint to cover the textured bedliner surface, but flooding it with paint means quite a bit of it ends up soaking under the tape. So I cleaned that off a bit with solvent which brought down the fuzziness to a tolerable level.

Now to see how it looks once it ages and gets dirty. Hopefully it won't turn t.u. burnt orange. The bass does look a whole lot more cheerful now than before, anyway.

So, not anywhere near a refinish, but thanks for the help. It looks happier now.
 
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#322
I'm looking to rattle can my old strat as a test before embarking on a full refin... I was at home depot today and saw a full line of rustoleum products that say they are good for wood. There is a primer, and a clear coat that say they are all compatible with the Navajo white I like. My Axe is black now so I assume I will need to use a primer. I plan to give the whole body a good scrub with a scotchbrite pad (don't want to get into sanding the whole thing if I don't have to) prime it, shoot a couple coats of white, and then clear. My questions are: does this procedure sound okay? when do I wet sand and what grit sand paper? How many coats of clear?
 
#328
Just completed a Reranch nitro refin of my black MIK Squier II P. It was my first refin attempt, and considering I had no idea what I was doing when I started, it came out well. My friends said it looks like a factory finish, which is a great compliment! I couldn't have done it without TB as a resource. Not gonna lie, though - it was a ton of work.

Body is stock except for the Wilkinson bridge, and I also added a thumb rest/bridge cover for the vintage vibe. It previously had an Affinity J neck, but I switched that for a brand new Squier CV P neck.

Oh, and the color is Reranch Surf Green...
 

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#335
I am resurrecting this thread because I just got a Squier VM Jazz fretless and the only thing I'm not digging is the sunburst finish. I looked around for either an affordable way to obtain the color I want via my tech or a company on the Internet or whatever, and then I looked for a Fender jazz body that was either unfinished or had a color I liked.

In all of these cases, I'm either coming up empty or coming up with having to spend at least another $100, which I don't really feel like doing.

What are your tips for a good spraypaint job? Do I sand it just enough to get the paint to stick and then paint it? Do I sand it all the way down to the bare wood, prime it, and paint it? Or do I sand it slightly, prime it, and paint?

I've spraypainted various objects before, but all of different materials and monetary value, so this is new to me. Suggestions? Thanks!
 
#336
hernameisrio said:
I am resurrecting this thread because I just got a Squier VM Jazz fretless and the only thing I'm not digging is the sunburst finish. I looked around for either an affordable way to obtain the color I want via my tech or a company on the Internet or whatever, and then I looked for a Fender jazz body that was either unfinished or had a color I liked.

In all of these cases, I'm either coming up empty or coming up with having to spend at least another $100, which I don't really feel like doing.

What are your tips for a good spraypaint job? Do I sand it just enough to get the paint to stick and then paint it? Do I sand it all the way down to the bare wood, prime it, and paint it? Or do I sand it slightly, prime it, and paint?

I've spraypainted various objects before, but all of different materials and monetary value, so this is new to me. Suggestions? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I recommend the Guitar Reranch products.

Since it's a fairly new bass, and I assume it's not all chipped or scratched don't strip it. Just rough it up with some 320 grit then shoot primer on it to give the color something to stick to. Then to shoot the color follow the instructions on the reranch website. Worked great for me. http://www.reranch.com/

Here are before and after pics of a Strat I did for a friend
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This one was so beat up I did have to strip it down to wood and fill a bunch of holes and gouges in it, but you should not have to do that if your body is in good shape.

Good luck, and post the pics when you're done.
 
#337
Thanks Mike, I'll check it out. I mean, I'm kinda nervous...but I guess I figure if I mess it up (worst case!), it won't be anything too drastic for my tech to fix. And I haven't even heard back from him yet, so I don't know what he would charge anyway, but I can't imagine he'd do it for less than $100. Which seems like a lot to put towards a $200 bass. Know what I mean?

God, I also hope I like the color I picked, after all this. It's a different brand than Krylon but basically as close as I could find to their "Jungle Green" color.
 
#338
You might also look at Gracey's nitro. Find it on eBay. That's what I used to paint my Jaguar SS bass. The paint goes on well, dries evenly, I think just as good as ReRanch and a lot more color options.

One thing I found is that it goes on really well if you warm the cans with hot tap water. Warm the can before your first coat and let it sit in a bowl with hot water slowly running on it while waiting for it to dry and doing the next coat. Used this with the color and clear coats.
 
#339
As far as technique goes I've done it both ways you mentioned (just scuffing and all the way down to bare wood). The finished product looks about the same IMO. I primed both times. Did light coats of paint, then about 7-8 coats of clear. Wetsanded, then polished. I say go for it. It's the very best way to make it your own!
 

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