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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
- Start date
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- club
So, here's my bass:
I added the mudbucker pickup, and an additional volume and coil tap switch. I regret adding the extra controls and could have integrated them without changing the look of the controls. Now they're in the way and I want to plug the holes and refinish the body with matching headstock.
Which of the following colors would you use?
I added the mudbucker pickup, and an additional volume and coil tap switch. I regret adding the extra controls and could have integrated them without changing the look of the controls. Now they're in the way and I want to plug the holes and refinish the body with matching headstock.
Which of the following colors would you use?
Hmmm...
This has me thinking.
I had thought about the possibility of doing this bass up in flat black.
Maybe a gloss black with a satin lacquer.
This has me thinking.
I had thought about the possibility of doing this bass up in flat black.
Maybe a gloss black with a satin lacquer.
Hmmm...
This has me thinking.
I had thought about the possibility of doing this bass up in flat black.
Maybe a gloss black with a satin lacquer.
If you're thinking flat black, John Deere Blitz Black is a good choice. It's available in rattle cans from John Deere dealers.
I have never even considered owning a black bass but something tells me that I should make this one black. I think I'm going to take your advice and go for John Deere Blitz Black. Here are some examples of this color:
I think the chrome hardware will really pop!
Should I do some clear coat over it?
I haven't posted in a while, but here's a few recent ones and one in progress.
Hi everyone. I am going to do my first lacquer gloss finish and I need help.
First off I have the whole body sanded too 600. Is this smooth enough to begin laying on gloss clear?
Also any tips for keeping the neck pocket of a bass from being lacquered? I was thinking tape
Do I wet sand between every coat or can I just lay on the finish?
Any other tips are greatly appreciated
I want super high gloss for this
First off I have the whole body sanded too 600. Is this smooth enough to begin laying on gloss clear?
Also any tips for keeping the neck pocket of a bass from being lacquered? I was thinking tape
Do I wet sand between every coat or can I just lay on the finish?
Any other tips are greatly appreciated
I want super high gloss for this
Hi everyone. I am going to do my first lacquer gloss finish and I need help.
OK
First off I have the whole body sanded too 600. Is this smooth enough to begin laying on gloss clear?
What is the base coat or is it bare wood, etc?
Also any tips for keeping the neck pocket of a bass from being lacquered? I was thinking tape
There's not much of a problem here that an Xacto knife won't fix later.
Do I wet sand between every coat or can I just lay on the finish?
What IS the finish in the first place - it makes a huge difference.
Any other tips are greatly appreciated
I want super high gloss for this.
It's do-able, but you've gotta tell what paints/clear coat material you are using and the condition and type of existing finish first.
More input for Johnny 5
OK
First off I have the whole body sanded too 600. Is this smooth enough to begin laying on gloss clear?
What is the base coat or is it bare wood, etc?
Also any tips for keeping the neck pocket of a bass from being lacquered? I was thinking tape
There's not much of a problem here that an Xacto knife won't fix later.
Do I wet sand between every coat or can I just lay on the finish?
What IS the finish in the first place - it makes a huge difference.
Any other tips are greatly appreciated
I want super high gloss for this.
It's do-able, but you've gotta tell what paints/clear coat material you are using and the condition and type of existing finish first.
More input for Johnny 5
SurferJoe46 said:
I'm working with partial bare wood ATM. I just want too toss down clear coat over what I have and that's it. I have rustoleum high gloss lacquer. The current finish is light tung oil.
600 is plenty. I rarely go above 400 in prepping for color. I do not sand between coats once the color is on unless a small bird or dog gets caught in the finish. Lacquer melts the previous coat of lacquer blending into one coat. Lay down enough clear to allow you to work your way through the grits of sand paper. I start at 800 and work up to 2000. Then move to medium cleaner polish, then fine, then swirl remover. I always spray at least 2 cans of clear. I probably sand about 1/3 of that away when polishing.
You can tape off the neck pocket. Also one thing that I do is slightly bevel the edges of the neck pocket. I just go around the edge of the entire neck pocket and smooth out the sharp edge. This helps prevent chipping around the pocket when reinstalling the neck. Good luck on the project.
ThaLowEndTheory said:
Thank you very much for the input! This is what I needed.
Only thing is I'm not doing color, just straight up clear over an existing body that's half sanded off. I have a thread on here with pics. But basically what I did is sand off allt he sides and half of the top and back of my ibanez sr506 and did it so the half way line is a wave. Something like the victor Wooten ying yang bass. So it's half of the original dark oil ibanez factory finish and half bare mahogany.
Ok, well mahogany typically need to be grainfilled. Are you sure that you are down to wood? There is typically a clear sealer under the color coats. If you haven't gone to bare wood, then you could follow the process minus the color coats. If you have sanded down to bare wood, then you will probably need to grainfill to achieve a smooth gloss finish.
I'm not too sure about Tung Oil with any paint of any kind ofer it.
Unless someone with that exact experience pipes up - I'd wait for more information.
To me, the Tung will have to go first - but I'm not too sure.
It's just that most paints do not like sitting on oil or oiled finishes at all!
Unless someone with that exact experience pipes up - I'd wait for more information.
To me, the Tung will have to go first - but I'm not too sure.
It's just that most paints do not like sitting on oil or oiled finishes at all!
SurferJoe46 said:
It's very very very light. Besides, I was going to take it off anyways now that I have this gloss. It's light enough that sanding with 400 will take it all off. Thanks though!
BTW: Here's the two I'm finishing up in the next day or so.
I prefer the Duplicolor paint I think. That's on the School Buss Yellow one. The baby blue one is a lot more work to get it to shine like the Duplicolor, with or without clear gloss over it.
I prefer the Duplicolor paint I think. That's on the School Buss Yellow one. The baby blue one is a lot more work to get it to shine like the Duplicolor, with or without clear gloss over it.
SurferJoe46 said:
Very nice! I really wish I had a space like that for my projects. Right now I do everything out of my bedroom. I'm building a spray box for the body out of some 7 foot wall studs I found outside. I'm just going to build a basic box frame 27x18x18. I'm going too wrap plastic around the outside to keep from spraying everything and to keep any debris away when it's drying. I'm also going to make a center turning knob thingy on the top to rotate the body without touching it. Still in the planning stages.
Love that yellow. I'm gonna have to look for that. I feel your pain with the krylon. I try to stay away from it, but sometimes the color is just to cool to ignore.
