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Rattle Can Refinish Club

Wow. I've never seen this thread. Wish I had, because I've been a rattle-can devotee for years. I've lost count of the refins I've done for myself, friends and even for a luthier I work with.

As to materials, I've used Stew Mac nitro sand and seal and lacquer clear coat with good results (quicker ship time than Reranch). Behlens appears to be the brand Stew Mac private labels (its available at specialty woodwork stores like Rockler, too). Rockler sells the Behlens in a number of aerosole dies (not just the Fender neck yellow you can get from Reranch).

I've also had great luck using Micro Mesh abrasives (at Stew Mac). They have papers with grits as fine as 12000. A couple of jobs I did were finished with no buffing at all - just rubbed out with each Micro Mesh grit up to the top grade.
 
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Just for kicks and giggles, I decided to refinish an old Ovation made out of cast iron - well it feels like cast iron anyway!

I decided to burn off some paints I've had around for winterizing my garden tools and things like shovels, hoes, rakes and Hula Hoes, etc --- things that mean W O R K! .

At this point on the Ovation™ body, I only patched the chips with Bondo® and cut the first layer of grime off the poly on the body with 80# open coat and then followed that up with 220# dry and then dusted and blew it all down and shot the primer on.

Here's the paints I'm using:::

First --- the primer:::

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This is the stuff you cannot dry sand! If you try the paper is gone almost instantly and you'll make some serious gouges in the finish that you're sanding!

Listen to your sandpaper at all times. It it's 'whistling' or 'singing' then something's wrong! Check on it!

Other than that - it is superb! It fills somewhat - not great though mind you so you've gotta get close to a finished surface with some other fillers if you need them - and it covers very well, dries fast and is workable in less than ½ hour.

BTW: this primer will fill and seal raw/cured Bondo! That's nice!

OK - I found a lot of compatibility with these three products, but you can't put anything OVER the Helmsman Spar Varnish! Don't EVEN try it! If you do, we never had this conversation.

Helmsman will readily adhere to itself for the next two generations if you want to reapply it - at any time.

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NOTE::: I did NOT use the Helmsman clear on the yellow body here! I did NOT! Instead I used the Krylon gloss clear - same brand.

The Hemlsman (^) will be used to cover the neck - not the fretboard - and the headstock and in some cases be the last clear coat on the body. I don't care what they say about it non-yellowing - it yellows/ages almost instantly if you use it right. It's also very cool looking.

Here you can see the first three coats of Krylon Yellow - it's gaudy - but why not! Notice I did NOT use the paint for Plastics version! It is nasty and even dislikes itself.

SIDEBAR::: I have a Gibson 6-er that I did in the Plastic stuff and it'll need a stripping and re-do ASAP. It alligator crazed after a 6-month period, so that stuff is active until it burns at Armageddon! No pixs of that yet. Next time maybe.

This YELLOW is the Dupli-Color and it works very nicely and is smooth to put on. You can put it on too thick in one shot if you're exceptionally careful. For what it's worth: don't try it.

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This blue paint went on another body that I've been building for the past three weeks - I know - no pixs. But it's a ringer for my Tele-type bass on the Luthier's area anyway, so who wants to see me do that again - huh?

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This is a jig I built to hold the bodies as I'm spraying them - enough angle for access and highlights in the shop and yet it's flat enough to keep runs to a minimum.

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The screw sticking out off the bottom is for resting the body on the bench, while it's standing up of course. I also use it as a handle when I'm moving or turning the body to a different position. It works for me.

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These are just nasty contours to sand! This is after the first clear-gloss coat:::

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Between clear coats, I use 1500# wet/dry (as in WET) to take out any imperfections (I'm human) and any dust bunnies that decided to commit suicide in my paint job. JUST USE IT LIGHTLY - V E R Y LIGHTLY!
 
Yeah - kinda happy with it so far. That heavy bench and vice is really nice to have. I figger if it'll hold that Ovation Ultra body up, I can load my Chevy small block on it too.

I've got a spray booth in the works so the dust bunnies will have to find someplace else to die.

The jug was just a late idea, since I didn't want to buy a 'guitar-body-rotator-alignment-bracket-thingies' that are registered, patented and expensive especially from S-M.
 
fourstringbliss said:
I'm thinking about refinishing my bass and I want to use off-the-shelf spray cans. What paint should I use? I like the spray tips on the new Krylon cans, but people seem to be down on Krylon.

I agree. The tips on Krylon are nice. Very easy to lay down an even coat, however there are compatibility issues when it comes to clearcoating.

Krylon's clears are NOT compatible with their colors. Don't try.

Minwax Polycrylic works if you start with a few (3-5) mist coats before laying into the heavier coats.

I'm using it as a barrier coat right now for a bass I'm working on, and I'll be doing the same thing with the light mist coats when I finish it up with nitro clear. Hopefully I'm as lucky this time around.
 
I agree. The tips on Krylon are nice. Very easy to lay down an even coat, however there are compatibility issues when it comes to clearcoating.

Krylon's clears are NOT compatible with their colors. Don't try.

Minwax Polycrylic works if you start with a few (3-5) mist coats before laying into the heavier coats.

I'm using it as a barrier coat right now for a bass I'm working on, and I'll be doing the same thing with the light mist coats when I finish it up with nitro clear. Hopefully I'm as lucky this time around.

Polycrylic, huh? Are the Krylon colors lacquer and the clears are acrylic?
 
I'm planning on using Krylon primer. Do I need to sand it before applying color coats? How long do I have to wait after I spray the primer to sand it? Do I sand between color coats? Do I sand the color coat before applying the clear coats?

Thanks!
 
fourstringbliss said:
I'm planning on using Krylon primer. Do I need to sand it before applying color coats? How long do I have to wait after I spray the primer to sand it? Do I sand between color coats? Do I sand the color coat before applying the clear coats?

Thanks!

I sanded the primer. I waited a few days before attempting, probably longer than needed.

I didn't sand the color coats. Too easy to muck something up.
 
I always sand the first color coat, but not from then on. If you cut through that first layer, then it's for the good to see that you don't quite have the body flat enough.

If I find a flaw any time, I'll 1500# it out and then wait the full 24 hours before another recoat. Sometimes a nib file is all I need to take a flyspeck out too, so there's that to consider.

Krylon is OK but you've gotta follow the rules. If you cannot get the next coat on in less than 15 minutes, then wait a couple of days. This is also true of their clear coat - which is an enamel anyway.
 
I always sand the first color coat, but not from then on. If you cut through that first layer, then it's for the good to see that you don't quite have the body flat enough.

If I find a flaw any time, I'll 1500# it out and then wait the full 24 hours before another recoat. Sometimes a nib file is all I need to take a flyspeck out too, so there's that to consider.

Krylon is OK but you've gotta follow the rules. If you cannot get the next coat on in less than 15 minutes, then wait a couple of days. This is also true of their clear coat - which is an enamel anyway.

Thanks for the advice! You gotta work fast with the Krylon.
 
100_1110.jpg


This blue paint went on another body that I've been building for the past three weeks - I know - no pixs. But it's a ringer for my Tele-type bass on the Luthier's area anyway, so who wants to see me do that again - huh?

I've got a couple of cans of this paint. I'd love to see how it looks on a bass. Please post the pics of yours.