jweber76 said:
Wow. I'm hoping everyone meant "wow" in a good way!! Everyone just said "wow" or "day-um", but without any explanations, so either you all liked it or I'm a total tool. Lol.
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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
- Start date
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- Tags
- club
Wow. I'm hoping everyone meant "wow" in a good way!! Everyone just said "wow" or "day-um", but without any explanations, so either you all liked it or I'm a total tool. Lol.
Wow in a good way for sure! I have had a good night's sleep and a couple cups of coffee so I could gather my thoughts... The tolex pg the P/tele style bass is an awesome idea! And very well executed.
The P (?) that looks like a fender amp is certainly one of the most original finishes in have ever seen. I would like to see a full body shot for a better idea of how the "big picture" looks.
The P (?) that looks like a fender amp is certainly one of the most original finishes in have ever seen. I would like to see a full body shot for a better idea of how the "big picture" looks.
jweber76 said:
The big picture isn't that great yet, because I'm still trying to get the piping to stay put!! I've tried everything from super glue to hot glue, and the piping keeps coming off after a couple days.
The tele guard came out so good that I've been considering doing the same treatment to my MIA 60th Anniversary P. I may order an extra guard for it so I don't feel so bad about modding a $1500 bass!!
- Apr 20, 2009
- 2,101
- 929
- Disclosures
- I'm the Squier of Fenderbirds
I recently finished a P Bass that turned out pretty good. Someone stripped the finish on a 2003 MIM and repainted it with Behr housepaint! It was pretty awful. I wanted to try using the cheapest Home Depot spraypaint just for kicks (plus, while I've used auto spraypaint in the past, they didn't make the color I fancied). It was probably a lot of extra work compared to using reranch, but at 1/3 the cost and two steps back it looks pretty sharp. I threw in a PAF DiMarzio, strung it with Chromes--it's a nice player!
House paint version, with painted pickguard and hairy spots:
(I hope it is just from the strap!)
To:
Sweet!
House paint version, with painted pickguard and hairy spots:
(I hope it is just from the strap!)
To:
Sweet!
- Apr 20, 2009
- 2,101
- 929
- Disclosures
- I'm the Squier of Fenderbirds
So a lot of people contribute to this thread, however the OP of this club has not been able to contribute to the forum in quite a while. I would like to see the club picked back up, anyone willing to take on the role of subscribing to the thread and handing out numbers?
Anyone willing to go through the thread and hand out numbers to those who already posted?
Anyone willing to go through the thread and hand out numbers to those who already posted?
I can do it if folks can give me a couple of days to get up to speed and if no one objects that I haven't yet posted my still in progress can re-fin. As no one has stepped up to take over, I'm actually still the acting club admin for a bass I have since sold!
I'm following this thread with an eye toward trying this myself. I've gathered the nuggets of wisdom that have been dropped here and there and compiled this, if anyone else might want it.
Also, can anyone think of anything to add, or take away:
Rattle Can Refinish methods and tools:
Tools mentioned
Heat gun
Metal scraper
Sandpaper of various grains
Power wheel
3M Long and Short rubber block
Paints mentioned
Reranch (nice tutorial here: http://reranch.com/basics.htm )
Krylon
Bondo primer (lacquer for guitars?)
Clearcoats mentioned
McFaddens Nitro Clear (Preval cans)
Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze
Krylon Acrylic Lacquer Clear Coat
Minwax Nitro
Advice given
To remove poly finish from guitar use a heat gun and a metal scraper. --ThatLowEndTheory
I've had the most luck with just laying on clear coat and wetsanding. To get a mirror though I polish between wetsanding and finish with 2000 grit. -- redlikejazz
After that, wet sanded with 600, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit, followed by buffing with StewMac Colortone Swirl Remover, then Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound, then 3M Hand Glaze. --BobWestbrook
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyZ
Is it essential to strip the body of the poly prior to painting it, or can it be sprayed over the existing layer of poly?
I'm thinking of refinishing my Squier VM Jag, but i'm fairly confused about where to start..
It is not essential, though I always do so. The poly must be sanded to establish a mechanical bond. I'm thinking 400 grit is a good place to start as I generally sand my raw bodies to either 400 or 600. -- ThatLowEndTheory
I never sand the top color coat unless there is a big imperfection, leave the top color and wetsand only the clear coats. If you use compatible clearcoat such as a nitro-lacquer based color with a nitro-lacquer clearcoat, the clearcoat will melt the color coat slightly and smooth it out. -- joeyl
Steel wool is not a very good 'scuff' tool. Use a wet/dry 240 or 320 grit closed coat paper instead - but use it dry. -- SurferJoe46
Yes, sand the primer. I usually sand up to 400. I use nitro based primers, so you need to make sure that your primer is compatible with your color coat. If you are using a nitro color, you should try it on a scrap piece of wood before you spray the bass just to be safe. -- ThatLowEndTheory
USE A 3M LONG AND SHORT RUBBER BLOCK WITH YOUR PAPER -----
Wet sand between coats - gently - with about 800 and not much finer than that.
I put a small drop of dish washing liquid in the water to help float the paint out of the paper and make it last longer.
Actually, the 800 will get dull and make some nice surface after you use it a while anyway.
Shiny spots aren't always a problem - but they mean that you aren't level and you didn't prepare the surface well enough.
You can fill minor surface irregularities with the color you are using if you let it flash off long enough between coats - but any time something is glossed inside the areas where you are sanding means a bad negative surface.
Are you sure they aren't fish-eyes? That's a different story and a totally different problem.
Typically I sand all but the last wet coat of clear and that I just let it sit quietly until it at least flashes off and it won't run.
The under-colors are always sanded if you are gonna clear-coat them later.
Then after a few days of gassing, you can wet sand the last clear with 1500 and then 2000 paper - don't forget the dish washing detergent!
Buff with a slow power wheel and some ultra fine, finish-grade swirl remover and wax until it's the way you want it.
I like Black Magic myself - but there are others. -- SurferJoe46
Get the surface closed up first. Metal OR wood.
If that means using a sealer to close the pores or keep the grain from rising, then so be it.
Now apply primer to build the surface to get it flat and to see where any flaws in flatness or sculpture needs to be fixed.
I say for you to get a contiguous coat of primer on your body, since you might be changing from one vehicle (paint solvent) to another type and that can be bad. But don't put on multiple coats just to get them on. Use discretion!
Always use block sanding techniques - the longest flat sanders are the best as they reduce the tendency to wallow out of cut grooves into the surface.
Never use your hands, fingers, forehead, feet to hold the sandpaper. Always use a flat sanding block. You cannot help but sand furrows into the surface, and some color coats can see your heartbeat in the finished product. Believe me.
Typically - old, compatible paint is the best primer. Why? It's old. It has gassed off completely over time. It is stable. It is dry. It stuck to the base covering (whatever it was). It makes a great tell* when you need to make the surface flat.
*TELL= a way to see if things are flat
Then - many years of experience will tell you that if you put paint Z on primer Y and it's applied over old surface X, there will be no bad reactions.
Lacking experience or knowledge, you need to ONLY use matching primers, sealers, final color or clear coats as you see fit.
But - you do not need to pour a lot of primer on a paint job. -- SurferJoe46
Just want to stress that advice to let it dry and let it dry well.
If you are anywhere there is humidity that is a game changer.
If you can dry it indoors in controlled climate that would be ideal.
And if you are painting outside, keep in mind there's more crap floating in the air than you may think so if your not under cover of some kind that may also pose issues as far as imperfections.
If something does get on it just leave it let it completely dry and sand it out and paint it again if need be.
Bugs are infamous for landing on things if you paint at night especially.
And don't rush this process, allow yourself at least a few days time.
IME typically the more time you can spend on it the better the results, start rushing and youll end up a very miserable bass owner. -- 1SHOT1HIT
Also, can anyone think of anything to add, or take away:
Rattle Can Refinish methods and tools:
Tools mentioned
Heat gun
Metal scraper
Sandpaper of various grains
Power wheel
3M Long and Short rubber block
Paints mentioned
Reranch (nice tutorial here: http://reranch.com/basics.htm )
Krylon
Bondo primer (lacquer for guitars?)
Clearcoats mentioned
McFaddens Nitro Clear (Preval cans)
Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze
Krylon Acrylic Lacquer Clear Coat
Minwax Nitro
Advice given
To remove poly finish from guitar use a heat gun and a metal scraper. --ThatLowEndTheory
I've had the most luck with just laying on clear coat and wetsanding. To get a mirror though I polish between wetsanding and finish with 2000 grit. -- redlikejazz
After that, wet sanded with 600, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit, followed by buffing with StewMac Colortone Swirl Remover, then Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound, then 3M Hand Glaze. --BobWestbrook
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyZ
Is it essential to strip the body of the poly prior to painting it, or can it be sprayed over the existing layer of poly?
I'm thinking of refinishing my Squier VM Jag, but i'm fairly confused about where to start..
It is not essential, though I always do so. The poly must be sanded to establish a mechanical bond. I'm thinking 400 grit is a good place to start as I generally sand my raw bodies to either 400 or 600. -- ThatLowEndTheory
I never sand the top color coat unless there is a big imperfection, leave the top color and wetsand only the clear coats. If you use compatible clearcoat such as a nitro-lacquer based color with a nitro-lacquer clearcoat, the clearcoat will melt the color coat slightly and smooth it out. -- joeyl
Steel wool is not a very good 'scuff' tool. Use a wet/dry 240 or 320 grit closed coat paper instead - but use it dry. -- SurferJoe46
Yes, sand the primer. I usually sand up to 400. I use nitro based primers, so you need to make sure that your primer is compatible with your color coat. If you are using a nitro color, you should try it on a scrap piece of wood before you spray the bass just to be safe. -- ThatLowEndTheory
USE A 3M LONG AND SHORT RUBBER BLOCK WITH YOUR PAPER -----
Wet sand between coats - gently - with about 800 and not much finer than that.
I put a small drop of dish washing liquid in the water to help float the paint out of the paper and make it last longer.
Actually, the 800 will get dull and make some nice surface after you use it a while anyway.
Shiny spots aren't always a problem - but they mean that you aren't level and you didn't prepare the surface well enough.
You can fill minor surface irregularities with the color you are using if you let it flash off long enough between coats - but any time something is glossed inside the areas where you are sanding means a bad negative surface.
Are you sure they aren't fish-eyes? That's a different story and a totally different problem.
Typically I sand all but the last wet coat of clear and that I just let it sit quietly until it at least flashes off and it won't run.
The under-colors are always sanded if you are gonna clear-coat them later.
Then after a few days of gassing, you can wet sand the last clear with 1500 and then 2000 paper - don't forget the dish washing detergent!
Buff with a slow power wheel and some ultra fine, finish-grade swirl remover and wax until it's the way you want it.
I like Black Magic myself - but there are others. -- SurferJoe46
Get the surface closed up first. Metal OR wood.
If that means using a sealer to close the pores or keep the grain from rising, then so be it.
Now apply primer to build the surface to get it flat and to see where any flaws in flatness or sculpture needs to be fixed.
I say for you to get a contiguous coat of primer on your body, since you might be changing from one vehicle (paint solvent) to another type and that can be bad. But don't put on multiple coats just to get them on. Use discretion!
Always use block sanding techniques - the longest flat sanders are the best as they reduce the tendency to wallow out of cut grooves into the surface.
Never use your hands, fingers, forehead, feet to hold the sandpaper. Always use a flat sanding block. You cannot help but sand furrows into the surface, and some color coats can see your heartbeat in the finished product. Believe me.
Typically - old, compatible paint is the best primer. Why? It's old. It has gassed off completely over time. It is stable. It is dry. It stuck to the base covering (whatever it was). It makes a great tell* when you need to make the surface flat.
*TELL= a way to see if things are flat
Then - many years of experience will tell you that if you put paint Z on primer Y and it's applied over old surface X, there will be no bad reactions.
Lacking experience or knowledge, you need to ONLY use matching primers, sealers, final color or clear coats as you see fit.
But - you do not need to pour a lot of primer on a paint job. -- SurferJoe46
Just want to stress that advice to let it dry and let it dry well.
If you are anywhere there is humidity that is a game changer.
If you can dry it indoors in controlled climate that would be ideal.
And if you are painting outside, keep in mind there's more crap floating in the air than you may think so if your not under cover of some kind that may also pose issues as far as imperfections.
If something does get on it just leave it let it completely dry and sand it out and paint it again if need be.
Bugs are infamous for landing on things if you paint at night especially.
And don't rush this process, allow yourself at least a few days time.
IME typically the more time you can spend on it the better the results, start rushing and youll end up a very miserable bass owner. -- 1SHOT1HIT
I should add some new info for you now.
There are some very good primers out now in cans that fill-seal-build very well.
These need wet sanding instead of dry. If you sand them dry, they will 'pill' and destroy the paper almost instantly.
But as always, I heartily recommend you always use the same brand in all products.
Another spray can I do NOT recommend is the Krylon For Plastics. It will not allow subsequent coats unless you like alligator skin and wrinkles. I have yet to find any clear coat that won't make it fail and bubble.
Stay to one line and for the most part you should be safe.
There are some very good primers out now in cans that fill-seal-build very well.
These need wet sanding instead of dry. If you sand them dry, they will 'pill' and destroy the paper almost instantly.
But as always, I heartily recommend you always use the same brand in all products.
Another spray can I do NOT recommend is the Krylon For Plastics. It will not allow subsequent coats unless you like alligator skin and wrinkles. I have yet to find any clear coat that won't make it fail and bubble.
Stay to one line and for the most part you should be safe.
I'm in the same boat with regular Krylon right now. I'll report back when my clear experiment works (or doesn't work).
I've been told that Minwax Polycrylic can be used over Krylon. I'm planning on doing this and then covering the poly with nitro.
Fingers crossed.
I've been told that Minwax Polycrylic can be used over Krylon. I'm planning on doing this and then covering the poly with nitro.
Fingers crossed.
