Have any of you had luck using rustoleum paint and touch brand? I have white primer, gloss black and clear coat. I have 800grit sand paper and 1500 and 2000 grit. I've painted bicycle frames before with metal flake, and it came out pretty nice. But it chipped, I think it was too thick and I didn't use primer or a clear coat.
I just started practicing on a paint stir stick. I've only put 2 coats of primer on it, and before I primed I used 400 grit to make the stir stick smooth.
How many coats of primer, color, and gloss do you recommend? I'm thinking about 3 coats of primer, 4 coats of color, and about 6 coats of gloss.
I know it's supposed to be applied super lightly, not packing it on.
I'm in the middle of a paint and body restoration of my Amigo.
Notice that I have NOT completely coated the body with gallons and gallons of primer? It's not necessary.
Primer - or too much primer actually - is detrimental to the final color for durability, adhesion and hardness of the final surface.
It promotes a cushion effect to a point, but that's not it's purpose. Primer can be used to fill uneven surfaces for block sanding back to a flat plane so the final coat doesn't look like there's fried eggs under the paint.
It is also used to provide a 'tooth' for the color coat to hold onto. Modern paints require a 600# final block-out for the single stage colors. In the old days, a 220# was sufficient and was preferred so the color coat had something to hold onto, also.
That's all changed now. I tend to go to an 800# before color for my block outs now. Every scratch in the primer (sandpaper is just controlled scratching) will show up as waterfalls, irregularities and zebra stripes in the last coat.
SO --> Get the surface closed up first. Metal OR wood.
If that means using a sealer to close the pores or keep the grain from rising, then so be it.
Now apply primer to build the surface to get it flat and to see where any flaws in flatness or sculpture needs to be fixed.
I say for you to get a contiguous coat of primer on your body, since you might be changing from one vehicle (paint solvent) to another type and that can be bad. But don't put on multiple coats just to get them on. Use discretion!
Always use block sanding techniques - the longest flat sanders are the best as they reduce the tendency to wallow out of cut grooves into the surface.
Never use your hands, fingers, forehead, feet to hold the sandpaper. Always use a flat sanding block. You cannot help but sand furrows into the surface, and some color coats can see your heartbeat in the finished product. Believe me.
Typically - old, compatible paint is the best primer. Why? It's old. It has gassed off completely over time. It is stable. It is dry. It stuck to the base covering (whatever it was). It makes a great tell* when you need to make the surface flat.
*TELL= a way to see if things are flat
Then - many years of experience will tell you that if you put paint Z on primer Y and it's applied over old surface X, there will be no bad reactions.
Lacking experience or knowledge, you need to ONLY use matching primers, sealers, final color or clear coats as you see fit.
But - you do not need to pour a lot of primer on a paint job.
FYI: the Isuzu will be painted Porsche 'Arrest Me Red', a three part, catalyzed polyurethane paint with several coats (three maybe) of polyurethane clear (buffable) coats. But the primer will be about as you see it - splotchy and looking rather haphazard.
It's all in the plans.
But yea if you like it, it's definitely worth it.
