I saw a couple of videos on youtube of individuals mixing up a solution of borax & water and then adding enamal paint in various colors. The paint of course was floating on the surface & it was mixed togher. Next the guitar, minus all its hardware, was slowly dipped into this mixture and removed with paint now sticking to it. I remember 30+ years ago in woodworking class in HS that my teacher said wood and water do not mix. Is this process good for what is basicaly a piece of wood being submerged in water?
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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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I've seen some videos on Youtube and a thread or two here on TB on this technique - I have not tried it myself, but from what I see, the water doesn't really get a chance to soak in... You start with a solid color base coat (which has dried by the time you do the swirling) which will somewhat protect the wood to start with. Then, the wood is only submerged long enough to get the swirls of paint stuck to it. It comes out immediately and then you let it dry.
Now if you were to just drop your project in a bucket of water and leave it for say a couple of hours, that would be more like what your shop teacher was talking about.
Thats what I thought. Either prime the wood or maybe use some type of water sealer for wood. I gotta admit that some of the designs are killer looking, there is one called the "Jupiter". Since it should not affect the bass I may try and find and old pawn shop bass and try this
Here's my son's cheap guitar I did for him in 2006, I've not had the chance to do my first bass yet but will be very soon I plan to do my Squire in Sea Foam Green possibly with a graphic of some sort.
I'll come back when it's done and share the pics of it. Here's a few of his just for fun.
I'll come back when it's done and share the pics of it. Here's a few of his just for fun.
Here's my second attempt at a 2TB using Mohawk Nitro. I didn't realize my punkinhead was casting a shadow. I couldn't even see the screen on my camera from the sunlight washing it out.
In a previous attempt, instead of aniline dye, I soaked some turmeric in acetone and dyed the body with that after straining through a coffee filter. I removed the 1st attempt with acetone, but left some residue of the dye in the wood. For this attempt, I used three graduated templates, one a tracing of the body, then successively smaller ones. I masked the body with the largest and sprayed the edges with Deep Mahogany Red, then I sprayed front and back with Light Golden Oak. With the intermediate template held 1 1/2" above the body, I sprayed a solid border with the Mahogany, then with the smallest template I misted (as best I could with the large nozzle) to feather the mahogany into the oak. Then I went over it all with their Yellow Tone up. Wet sanded lightly with 400b waterproof before and after final coat. I may knock down the neck and give it a shot of the Yellow tone up in the future.
This is a cheap Turser bass so I wasn't going for perfection. The body has a thin veneer of cheap wood and removing the factory finish resulted in exposing some of the core wood. I didn't bother filling or sanding for an ultra smooth finish. I am practicing for an upcoming project, a '57 Pbass build from parts.
Number please?
In a previous attempt, instead of aniline dye, I soaked some turmeric in acetone and dyed the body with that after straining through a coffee filter. I removed the 1st attempt with acetone, but left some residue of the dye in the wood. For this attempt, I used three graduated templates, one a tracing of the body, then successively smaller ones. I masked the body with the largest and sprayed the edges with Deep Mahogany Red, then I sprayed front and back with Light Golden Oak. With the intermediate template held 1 1/2" above the body, I sprayed a solid border with the Mahogany, then with the smallest template I misted (as best I could with the large nozzle) to feather the mahogany into the oak. Then I went over it all with their Yellow Tone up. Wet sanded lightly with 400b waterproof before and after final coat. I may knock down the neck and give it a shot of the Yellow tone up in the future.
This is a cheap Turser bass so I wasn't going for perfection. The body has a thin veneer of cheap wood and removing the factory finish resulted in exposing some of the core wood. I didn't bother filling or sanding for an ultra smooth finish. I am practicing for an upcoming project, a '57 Pbass build from parts.
Number please?
This was a $60 dark blue Squier body. I primered with white epoxy primer (left over from painting a boat) and then used Ace Hardware brand 'Navajo White' rattle can and enamel clear coat.
I have not done a bass yet, but here is a Frankenstrat parts guitar I did for a friend of mine using all ReRanch products.
Sand and Seal, white primer, two cans of Daphne Blue, and two cans of clear.
Before
Link Removed
After
Link Removed
The entire thread is here if anyones' interested https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.119932828130802.2160.119889761468442&type=3#!/media/set/?set=a.119932828130802.2160.119889761468442&type=3
Sand and Seal, white primer, two cans of Daphne Blue, and two cans of clear.
Before
Link Removed
After
Link Removed
The entire thread is here if anyones' interested https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.119932828130802.2160.119889761468442&type=3#!/media/set/?set=a.119932828130802.2160.119889761468442&type=3
Thats' beautiful! Mirror smooth. I like a matte or satin finish on sunbursts, but those solids look best in gloss.
The "before" pic show a lot of orange peel. was that a refin, too?
Yes. It was painted by the owner with some Giant Auto, metallic blue auto touch up paint sometime in the mid 70's.
Thank you everyone for the compliments. I just finished spraying the last coat of clear on the Tele I'm doing for the same guy, also with ReRanch products. It has to hang up and cure now but here is the thread so far https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.139710342819717.3151.119889761468442&type=3
Sometime this summer I'll be doing a bass bulid that I'll be using ReRanch products on. I'll be sure to post those too when I get to it.
Can anyone provide some useful links on how to properly disassemble a bass to prepare it for a refin? I'm considering doing a rattle-can job on a Squier P, and I want to make sure I don't break anything while taking it apart - specifically, the pickups/pots.
its called "rover applejack" as you can see from a guitar i did later on for a friend in the same colour
forgive the lateness of the reply i havent had access to a computer in 2 months
Unscrew; unbolt; remove in the following order:
1) strings
2) relax truss rod
3) remove neck and neck plate
4) remove bridge - to release bridge ground wire
5) pickguard - taken off with the pots and if the output connex is in that, also take it out in one unit.
6) unsolder and tag wires from pickup(s)
7) remove pickups w/springs-sponge rubber, etc.
That's how I do it - and I don't think I forgot anything.
You could leave the soldered joints intact, but it heightens the risk of damage to the connections.
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I've got a pawn trying to offload one of these to me for $50.00 - in black with the aluminum bars on the sides.
Whatchathink - is it worth it? I know it works 'cause his son and I jam at the shop sometimes, me using it and him on a Fender Dual-Reverb and guitar.
I paid $75 for mine and its great for practices and stuff, but for loud rock gigs its under-powered. And if you buy it you can always make it look awesome.
But yea if you like it, it's definitely worth it.
