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Rattle Can Refinish Club

#162
neurotictim said:
I took a stock SX bass and upgraded virtually everything on it, including a charcoal metallic/prism paint job, for a GTG raffle prize a few years ago.



Painted the headstock, even made a one-off logo, then sealed it all under a ridiculous amount of clearcoat.

IMG_0236-1.jpg


The "prism" effect wasn't as obvious unless under very bright lighting (such as a flash). Wasn't perfect, but still a fun project that came out pretty well. The winner of the bass still has it, in fact.
Click to expand...


Man,
That is a VERY cool color! I've only been doing Nitro colors, but this is just too cool not to try. Where did you get that color?

Thanks! :hyper:
 
#164
So, I'm about to do my first rattlecan finish on my Aria ZZ doubleneck project. One of the guitars I used had a very 80's kind of yin-yang thing going on, so I thought it might be cool to do this to the doubleneck.

Aria_Pro_II_ZZ_BlackWhite___19.jpg


I am assuming I would have to shoot the whole thing white, then tape it off and do the black. My question is, what sequence would I do the wetsanding since I would be painting it one half at a time? Am I in over my head trying this, as this would be my first instrument painting?
 
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#165
guys, any advice on finishing a raw wood body? I would prefer to do it with rattle can paints/laquers as I'm gonna do it at home. I would also like the finish to wear quickly and nicely as I've got a nitro finished retro-tinted neck to go with it, and it's got some wear already. The body is alder, I want some solid colour for it, haven't decided what colour yet.
 
#167
fourstringbliss said:
I'm thinking of getting my six year old an Ibanez Mikro bass and there's a used one for a really good price but it's black. What is the process I'd need to do to prep and spray it a different color?
Click to expand...

this is what i do:
-sand with 220 grit to rough up the surface
-spray primer (duplicolor sandable primer)
-spray color (maybe 3 light coats until it's even) (duplicolor perfect match)
-spray clear (i find deft to be the easiest to work with). you can get away with 3 coats but don't expect to be able to buff it to gloss with that few coats.
 
#168
Well, I finally got the doubleneck painted and I am not happy with the results. It ended up with wicked orange peel, and I think the filler I used shrunk back too! Arg! Should I have waited until the summer to paint this? It was cold and rainy when I was doing it. After I sprayed the paint on, I moved the body from the ventilated garage to the warmer, dryer basement where I let it dry for at least 24 hours before wet sanding and respraying. I used Lowes Valspar paint & clear.

I've seen many different posts about not wet sanding color coats and some saying make sure you wet sand color coats. Just trying to figure out if this is worth fixing now or waiting until the summer. I'm in NH, so it's gonna snow any day now.

Help, please!
 
#169
SOME paints are sandable - others are not. What did it say on the label - if anything?

Changing the area where you dry it from where you painted it can cause sweating and water to liberate (exude) from the base material. That was a bad idea.

Under CONTROLLED environments, painting is an art and doing what you did is usually rife with bad results from poor planning and bad execution.

Once orange peel happens, you've got to start all over since it indicates either you have gross contamination of the undersurface or there is a serious incompatibility with the primer (did you even use any?) or you sneezed on it or the temperature was wrong or the paint itself was 'sour' and had exceeded it's 'Use By' date.

Strip it first mechanically and then with the correct solvents or removers and start all over.

Use compatible paints and sealers/primers. Better yet, get your paint from a paint supplier to the automotive trade and use a real HVLP gun (not a Harbor Fright one) with compressor that has an air drier, oil separator and pressure regulation.
 
#171
Chris K said:
count me in...

From

IMG_2002Small.jpg


To

glnieuw015Small-1.jpg


glnieuw013Small-1.jpg
Click to expand...

Just out of laziness I'm replying to my own post. Floridabwoy asked me how I did it. In the meantime I also rattlecanned this baby:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I also did a couple of guitars for those guys, like this one:[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
It was for a leading Dutch blues player. The picture doesn't do justice to the gorgeous transparency of the finish.

I never use machines nor sprays, nor lacquer. Nothing but cotton rags, sandpaper, Danish Oil, natural terpentine, small kitchen sponges and artists' oil color of the best quality I can lay my hands on.

  1. Sand with 240 grit
  2. Washcoat of Danish Oil and natural terpentine, 50-50, with rag; let the wood soak the oil, but wipe off immediately; make sure the edges get well-oiled; this will prevent blotching; especially alder is notorious for blotching; as you can see I'm an ash kind of guy. Let dry for 48 hours.
  3. Sand lightly with 600 grit
  4. Mix the artists' oil color to the desired color or colors; use colors known for transparence (see charts) f.e. no titanium white but zinc white.
  5. Rub in the oil color with a sponge; no layers, rub it in I said. Use different sponges for different colors; start with the front; turn it over and rest it on small blocks of wood that roughly fit into the pup holes
  6. Let dry for two weeks; daylight makes it dry faster; temperature makes little difference; colors differ much; the lighter the longer they take to dry
  7. Wipe gently with pure Danish Oil with a rag; do not rub, but gently wipe off excessive oil; let dry for 24 hours, repeat three times (after coat 1 you need not be that gentle anymore)
  8. Sand lightly with 1200 grit after the 4th coat only
  9. One more coat of Danish oil; 24 hours drying; polish lightly with 2000 grit
  10. Polish gently and carefully with hand car polish
  11. Rub with carnauba car wax (for a veeeery nice feel)
.

BTW: the G&L will be un-G&l -ed more; i've got Barts on the way.

Good luck!
 
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#173
SurferJoe46 said:
SOME paints are sandable - others are not. What did it say on the label - if anything?

Changing the area where you dry it from where you painted it can cause sweating and water to liberate (exude) from the base material. That was a bad idea.

Under CONTROLLED environments, painting is an art and doing what you did is usually rife with bad results from poor planning and bad execution.

Once orange peel happens, you've got to start all over since it indicates either you have gross contamination of the undersurface or there is a serious incompatibility with the primer (did you even use any?) or you sneezed on it or the temperature was wrong or the paint itself was 'sour' and had exceeded it's 'Use By' date.

Strip it first mechanically and then with the correct solvents or removers and start all over.

Use compatible paints and sealers/primers. Better yet, get your paint from a paint supplier to the automotive trade and use a real HVLP gun (not a Harbor Fright one) with compressor that has an air drier, oil separator and pressure regulation.
Click to expand...

+1
I have a P bass body sitting in my parents garage because I was impatient with the process and completely ruined it. I have to strip it down to bare wood now. Hence why it's sitting.
 
#175
some really nice work on here.
nicer than mine, but I'll post a few anyway.
my first bass was a black exb 404, I gave it to my wife the first valentines day after our wedding so she could learn on it too. Obviously having a soft spot for them, I about died when I saw this at a pawn shop
WedJan13135041AmericaNew_York2010.jpg

so after some rustoleum lacquer and a LOT of sanding
WedJan20195750AmericaNew_York2010.jpg

used rattle cans on this one
from this (stock black finish with orange vinyl)
TueDec22172332AmericaNew_York2009.jpg

to this, rustoleum lacquers and black wrinkle paint (can't remember what brand)
IMAG0375.jpg

Rustoleum (once again) engine paint on my thunderbird, with wrinkle paint stripes
IMAG0169.jpg

and work in progress, testors lime ice metallic
IMAG0384.jpg
 
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