• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Rattle Can Refinish Club

#121
knigel said:
Ok rattle can experts, a couple of questions.

Sand between color and clear? Yes (I'm assuming yes)?

If so, HOW sanded? I mean not through the color obviously, but so the whole finish is matte, with no shiny spots? Even tiny ones? Or just enough to get the tiny bumps out?

How many coats of clear? And do you sand the clear, then polish?

I'm getting close to the finish line. And Creme by Toyota looks great, better than I hoped (less yellow than the gorilla vanilla, but still nice).

Thanks!

EDIT: I did find some good info on the reranch site, but any additional info/tips would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

USE A 3M LONG AND SHORT RUBBER BLOCK WITH YOUR PAPER -----


Wet sand between coats - gently - with about 800 and not much finer than that.

I put a small drop of dish washing liquid in the water to help float the paint out of the paper and make it last longer.

Actually, the 800 will get dull and make some nice surface after you use it a while anyway.

Shiny spots aren't always a problem - but they mean that you aren't level and you didn't prepare the surface well enough.

You can fill minor surface irregularities with the color you are using if you let it flash off long enough between coats - but any time something is glossed inside the areas where you are sanding means a bad negative surface.

Are you sure they aren't fish-eyes? That's a different story and a totally different problem.

Typically I sand all but the last wet coat of clear and that I just let it sit quietly until it at least flashes off and it won't run.

The under-colors are always sanded if you are gonna clear-coat them later.

Then after a few days of gassing, you can wet sand the last clear with 1500 and then 2000 paper - don't forget the dish washing detergent!

Buff with a slow power wheel and some ultra fine, finish-grade swirl remover and wax until it's the way you want it.

I like Black Magic myself - but there are others.
 
  • Like
Reactions: timplog
#122
I want to thank everyone for their help. I finally finished my Fenderbird!

From this:

5042708471_4b2f14c0a1.jpg


To this!

5752173397_b4bed8d2d0_z.jpg


It sounds like thunder and plays like butter! Thanks again for your help!
 
  • Like
Reactions: BBassBassington, Sands, Miles_ONeal and 5 others
#126
Thanks all! Low End, I followed your advice about polish, and MAN what a difference! That Meguiars is GREAT!

It sounds great, lots of low and very aggressive. The T40 pickup sounds, well like a T40 with the bridge soloed. Does not have the magic of the single/hum, but sounds very full. Add the DiMarzio and WHOA! I put some Chromes on it--ladies and gentlemen, we have a new gigging bass.

Fits in great with my band (probably not the best bass for jazz) and I am loving it!
 
  • Like
Reactions: smitty5498
#135
That was the Krylon for plastics. And just International RED. No other differentiation.

There are unprinted rules to using it though! It must be recoated in less than 1/2 hour or you have to wait for 72 hours for the next coat.

They SAY to wait no less than 15 minutes and no more than 1/2 hour or you have to wait 24 hours. Boloney!

If you only wait 24 hours, you'll get to remove it and start all over again. My experience told me to wait for the out-gassing to stop and then it was safe for the next coat.

If you aren't fast enough or too fast you will wrinkle to last coat and it will look like dried alligator.

Unless you're after that Jungle Reptilian Theme, it's not good to push the speed up for the next coat to your needs.

Thumbnail version:

Re-coat in less than 15 minutes OR longer than 48 hours (more like 72).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cyanide
#136
Has anyone ever used anything like this?
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I am thinking of doing a refinish and saw this in the store. I wondered if it would work or if it would be impossible to get a good gloss on it. Would you just have to put a lot of clear coats over it?
 
#137
LowKee said:
Has anyone ever used anything like this?
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
I am thinking of doing a refinish and saw this in the store. I wondered if it would work or if it would be impossible to get a good gloss on it. Would you just have to put a lot of clear coats over it?
Click to expand...

We used to call that effect: "ATZEI' and it was not generally used in automotives much - as it's a dirt catcher and won't hold the pattern in extreme heat.

Although those two reason aren't really germane to a guitar (I hope so anyway!) - it isn't going to smooth out easily unless you almost dip the body in clear repeatedly.

With enough coats (think: dozens) of clear coats over it, you can hide fried eggs on your bass if you like.

I wouldn't do this though.

FYI: Bondo makes a really good primer for guitar paint jobs. It's a lacquer and as yet is still available on the Left Coast. So I must be everywhere else too by inference.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back