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Rattle Can Refinish Club

Anyone had luck with this?:

1: Undetectably refinishing those gawdawful self-destructing Fender neck matte polyurethane finishes that shatter, crack and peel after a year or two...

2: Undetectably overspraying an intact Fender clear matte neck finish with a tinted matte finish for an aged look...

...while keeping the face graphics intact on an undamaged head?

Seems like it shouldn't be that difficult, but I thought I'd ask.
 
Judicious masking of the front of the headstock and generally taking care to not bleed under the masking was what I did - only in reverse.

I didn't want to damage the neck finish and just wanted to replace the head decal and the back of the head needed a re-coat too.

But that was backwards from your situation - mine was prolly easier to accomplish.
 
I am preparing to spray a kramer 420s and want to color it white. It has a rosewood neck and all black hardware. The neck was refinished with tung oil and the body has been prepped. White just seems to be the best combination but I don't want it to be TOO white. Can anyone suggest a shade of white pain that isn't too bright?

Is it necessary to use primer if painting over the old paint? I have scuffed it thoroughly with steel wool.
 
Steel wool is not a very good 'scuff' tool. Use a wet/dry 240 or 320 grit closed coat paper instead - but use it dry.

Steel wool has irregular surfaces on the individual wires and they won't give a good tooth to the under paint for good adhesion of the new paint.

Old paint is a very good undercoat - if it is comparable with whatever you want to put over it.

Are you sure of the pigments and vehicle compatibility of the old and new paints?

.
 
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What is the official color on this one?
 
I am preparing to spray a kramer 420s and want to color it white. It has a rosewood neck and all black hardware. The neck was refinished with tung oil and the body has been prepped. White just seems to be the best combination but I don't want it to be TOO white. Can anyone suggest a shade of white pain that isn't too bright?

Is it necessary to use primer if painting over the old paint? I have scuffed it thoroughly with steel wool.

Reranch Gorilla Vanilla. Think vanilla ice cream. Great color.

If you are spraying over poly you do not need primer, but it doesn't hurt either. Gives you a great base and will help to insure even coverage with less paint.
 
Love that Gorilla Vanilla! I'm going for the Bullet Bass color:

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Pretty close! EDIT: I should say, this is the color I would like for my Fenderbird project.

Hey Low End--I'm using Rustoleum Auto Touch up something or other. I put on two coats of primer--should I sand between primer and color? Lightly, like 400?
 
Love that Gorilla Vanilla! I'm going for the Bullet Bass color:

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Pretty close! EDIT: I should say, this is the color I would like for my Fenderbird project.

Hey Low End--I'm using Rustoleum Auto Touch up something or other. I put on two coats of primer--should I sand between primer and color? Lightly, like 400?


Yes, sand the primer. I usually sand up to 400. I use nitro based primers, so you need to make sure that your primer is compatible with your color coat. If you are using a nitro color, you should try it on a scrap piece of wood before you spray the bass just to be safe.

BTW, reranch's vintage cream is close to the color of that bullet.
 
Okay so I decided that my Crescent bass needed a facelift because I could not stand the horrendous "GreenBurst" finish it had.

Here's a before pic of it:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f252/sublimeskunk37/Bass Transformation/Image04242011020952.jpg

And HERE is why I HATE KRYLON.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f252/sublimeskunk37/Bass Transformation/Image04252011181352.jpg

I figured maybe Krylon changed in the past 3 years since the last time I used it, but NOPE. The paint cans still spit out paint which causes it to run,and leave bumps and cracks EVERYWHERE. Before you criticize me and say that it's me, it's not. I painted my 1976 Plymouth Valiant with 4" foam roller brushes. (It's in my photo album on photobucket if you want to take a peek.) and did all the door jambs, underneath the hood, the trunk and the engine bay with Rustoleum Hunter Green spray paint. It came out next to perfect and I get compliments on my car wherever I go.

So I went to the Home Depot at 9PM tonight and bought Rustoleum Gloss Purple and Rustoleum primer. Well it's midnight and the bass looks about 894,731,883.19 times better than it did 12 hours ago. It was too dark to take pictures but I'll definitely have pics of it tomorrow evening.

You guys have been warned : STAY AWAY FROM KRYLON.

BTW Knigel, I love the colour of your bass! Did you wetsand the yellow with fine grit paper before clear coating it?
 
Okay so I decided that my Crescent bass needed a facelift because I could not stand the horrendous "GreenBurst" finish it had.

Here's a before pic of it:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f252/sublimeskunk37/Bass Transformation/Image04242011020952.jpg

And HERE is why I HATE KRYLON.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f252/sublimeskunk37/Bass Transformation/Image04252011181352.jpg

I figured maybe Krylon changed in the past 3 years since the last time I used it, but NOPE. The paint cans still spit out paint which causes it to run,and leave bumps and cracks EVERYWHERE. Before you criticize me and say that it's me, it's not. I painted my 1976 Plymouth Valiant with 4" foam roller brushes. (It's in my photo album on photobucket if you want to take a peek.) and did all the door jambs, underneath the hood, the trunk and the engine bay with Rustoleum Hunter Green spray paint. It came out next to perfect and I get compliments on my car wherever I go.

So I went to the Home Depot at 9PM tonight and bought Rustoleum Gloss Purple and Rustoleum primer. Well it's midnight and the bass looks about 894,731,883.19 times better than it did 12 hours ago. It was too dark to take pictures but I'll definitely have pics of it tomorrow evening.

You guys have been warned : STAY AWAY FROM KRYLON.

BTW Knigel, I love the colour of your bass! Did you wetsand the yellow with fine grit paper before clear coating it?

My bass (page 1) was done with Rustoleum brown. Came out bearable for now (thinking of redoing in a matte maroon finish now) It just took FOREVER to fully dry...

Also bravo on the roller job! I did the same with my '94 Dodge Shadow back a bunch of years ago. It was the second paint job I gave that car after the awful spray can orange coating on it. lol. Granted, mine was a mess fest and look terrible. It was fun, and that's what counts right? :)
 
Ok rattle can experts, a couple of questions.

Sand between color and clear? Yes (I'm assuming yes)?

If so, HOW sanded? I mean not through the color obviously, but so the whole finish is matte, with no shiny spots? Even tiny ones? Or just enough to get the tiny bumps out?

How many coats of clear? And do you sand the clear, then polish?

I'm getting close to the finish line. And Creme by Toyota looks great, better than I hoped (less yellow than the gorilla vanilla, but still nice).

Thanks!

EDIT: I did find some good info on the reranch site, but any additional info/tips would be appreciated.
 
Hi guys,

Hope you guys do not mind me posting a rattle can finished guitar. This guitar belongs to my friend and guitarist.

My friend's dad recently got diagnosed with the big C, so I thought I would cheer him up with a present. I haven't got money to buy him a new guitar and inspired by this thread, decided to refinish his 1990s Fender MIJ Stratocaster that he had done a horrible matt black finish to many years ago.

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Before. Matt black rattle can finish in his teenage years.

I must admit that I made at least one mistake at every single step of the stripping and refinishing process. And the finish is far from perfect. :bawl: The up side is that on my next project, which is almost definitely going to be a bass, I should avoid those same mistakes. :D