Rattle Can Refinish Club

[Rip Topaz]

I like that burst. Very nice job.

 

[JoeyZ]

It is not essential, though I always do so. The poly must be sanded to establish a mechanical bond. I'm thinking 400 grit is a good place to start as I generally sand my raw bodies to either 400 or 600.

I sanded it with a sponge block 400grit. And then sprayed it.
It's drying in my closet as we speak

Looks awesome. And even if the paint starts chipping away, that's fine. I play in a punk/metal band.. Paints going to chip one way or another! hahaha

 

[Ian Perge]

I'm interested in the few ALSA "Flip Flop" aka "Kameleon" Rattle Can finishes - can you truly get a decent 2-to-3 color "flop" using their products, or is this a finish you should truly leave to the professionals?

...because I want one!!

 

[ThaLowEndTheory]

The ALSA stuff works pretty good from what I've heard. I know a few guys that have used the duplicolor stuff as well that good good results. I've been expirimenting with pearls lately. I'm currently working on a Ric using gold pearl. Here's a (gasp!) strat that I did recently. Not the same as the flip flop colors, but still pretty cool. You can get some nice colors from spray cans these days. I had to use a preval for the pearl, but it's about the same as a spray can.

 

[jazz3625tonic]

Here's one I did a few years back.

 

[jazz3625tonic]

And this is the last one from raw Warmoth parts.

 

[mazareth]

I have a bass with a spray painted body with no clear coat. I want to take at least enough paint off the body for it to hold a primer coat.

My plan is to primer the body in white and have a tattoo artist friend of mine decorate the body. I would then put a clear coat over that.

I've done several thread searches here on TB with no luck.

 

[ThaLowEndTheory]

I have a bass with a spray painted body with no clear coat. I want to take at least enough paint off the body for it to hold a primer coat.

My plan is to primer the body in white and have a tattoo artist friend of mine decorate the body. I would then put a clear coat over that.

I've done several thread searches here on TB with no luck.

Contact member BeeTL. He could probably give you some advice on compatible paints. He does some great work.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/my-art-guitars-basses-2010-a-682958/

 

[JoeyZ]

Wow, so I totally botched the refin, and have to start over.

Tried to do the second coat before the paint cured, and it all started crackling.
First coat looked awesome, the next..ugh not so much!

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[redlikejazz]

Let it cure all the way, or respray within the first hour. also if it happens again, but not really bad, you can sand it out once it's dry and cured.

 

[joeyl]

For you guys that have mastered the mighty rattle can, I have not been able to get a decent high gloss finish using standard hardware store paint regardless of the prep and/or wet sanding with 1,000+ grit or rubbing / polishing compound.

* Do you wet sand the top color coat and only worry about gloss in the clear coat stage?
* Has anyone tried any of the 2 part polyurethane clear coats? There was a brand (name escapes me) that you pushed a button on the bottom of the can to activate the hardener. You had approx 8 hours before the can wouldn't shoot. I saw some motorcycle gas tanks that were painted with Krylon paint but looked very pro with this type of clear. I gather the clear had to be applied lightly at first but top coat had to go on very wet.
* Or, is the trick just to use Reranch nitro lacquer and "fix" the clear coat with wet sand and compound like a 60's car paint job?

I never sand the top color coat unless there is a big imperfection, leave the top color and wetsand only the clear coats. If you use compatible clearcoat such as a nitro-lacquer based color with a nitro-lacquer clearcoat, the clearcoat will melt the color coat slightly and smooth it out. Yep just like a 60's car paint job.

You are talking about spraymax, where the polyurethane and hardener is activated inside the can by pushing the red button at the bottom. It dries super hard in a week, it is very clear and flows well. The bad is that the fumes are super toxic, and if it cures, there is no going back to fix mistakes like with nitro, you have to sand it down.

 

[-=DanAtkinson=-]

Here's one I did years ago before I started doing any commercial builds. I used Reranch spray cans.

Let me tell you, if you ever need motivation for punching holes in drywall, try spraying a good sunburst using rattle cans.

 

[Rip Topaz]

Just finished this one. Nothing special, but the finish is rattle can Deft nitro clear gloss over shellac (to seal the cocobolo).

 

[joeyl]

very nice T Bird, did you use the deft on the maple board also?

 

[blipndub]

I used stewmac color tone liquid stain in an alcohol base. Cherry and black mixed to taste. I think I top coated it with minwax nitro been digging that lately.

 

[DLEE]

Topaz,that looks so sweet!!!!

 

[tabdog]

Promise not to laugh, please,,,, It plays and sounds
real good. Painted by me and my 14 year old son.

(no before)

Next, one can of color shift paint from Lowe's for $22.

before,

later,

now,

Tabdog

 

[Rip Topaz]

very nice T Bird, did you use the deft on the maple board also?

No, the board is done with Formby's. Not entirely convinced it's gonna stay that way though.

 

[Rip Topaz]

Topaz,that looks so sweet!!!!

Thanks, man. The whole project took what seemed like forever. But it was so worth it. This thing plays sweet, and the fiber optics in the neck really set it off.

 

[bgmww]

great work guys.. is there a tutorial or something to do something like those basses ?