Rattle Can Refinish Club

[JIO]

Copy that. That makes sense - possible issues with the edges, thanks for the input. This refinish of the inexpensive/abandoned Dean Zone bass is kind of a practice run for a raw, unfinished V bass kit I’ve got coming in November. I might adjust my holder now, thanks.

I did a few coats weeks ago using an inadequate wire holder. I should peel back that painters tape a bit. Fortunately, I checked and it appears the edges got sprayed sufficiently this time.

View attachment 3991358

On my upcoming kit build, I’m going for the most professional job I can do in the garage. I always liked the neatness of Warmoth’s replacement bodies, for example, with no finish in the neck pocket. That’s what I’m going to strive for. It’s impossible to do this with a refinish of an old guitar, but I’m going to give it a try with my new body.

It would be cool to get a wood burner branding iron and burn in a logo like they did....now I’m getting OCD but that would be cool, IMO. (It’s probably really only been rubber stamped )

View attachment 3991365

I don't have a pic, but when I tape-off a neck cavity, I leave 1/16" from the edge. When it's finished and the tape is pulled away (always downwards away from the paint edge) - there is a slight buildup there. I use a fine file using downward stokes to level off the buildup. Never upward strokes which can catch and cause chips of paint on the finish. I use the high-end version of Scotch 3M painters tape, which is now a lavender colour. (used to be blue with brown lettering) It is very thin, sticks well but comes off easily and leaves no residue. It is also flexible for taping off a hs face.

 

[Doctor Morbius]

Here are some pics of the neck I just completed. Still working on the body.

The paint is Rustoleum's 2X Ocean Mist, then used gloss over that. I sanded the neck completely and did all of the exposed maple with Tru-Oil - about 4 coats.

I also spent a good amount of effort on the frets by filing off any fret sprout and using various grades of emery cloth on the edges. Then I used 0000 steel wool do polish them up a bit.

On the fretboard I used Dunlop's lemon oil. I'm impressed with how dark this Indian Laural fretboard looks! I like it much better than Pau Ferro, which is too light my my taste.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Not rattle can, but could supplant rattle can clear coat. After your color coat is fully cured, this stuff will allow you to clear the body / neck in an afternoon and be ready for assembly by supper..
No smell, no VOC. Environmentally friendly... Solarez test build. Okoume Pbass

 

[Bassist59]

I don't have a pic, but when I tape-off a neck cavity, I leave 1/16" from the edge. When it's finished and the tape is pulled away (always downwards away from the paint edge) - there is a slight buildup there. I use a fine file using downward stokes to level off the buildup. Never upward strokes which can catch and cause chips of paint on the finish. I use the high-end version of Scotch 3M painters tape, which is now a lavender colour. (used to be blue with brown lettering) It is very thin, sticks well but comes off easily and leaves no residue. It is also flexible for taping off a hs face.

Good info, thanks!

 

[Fat Freddy]

If you like the paint job you’d love the electronics. The switch changes the volume and tone knobs between 500K and 250k Pots.

It was an interesting wiring experiment which makes precisely zero difference to the tone.

My kind of experiment....

 

[CatchaCuda]

Inquiring minds want to know

Special Edition Build Off - Toby Deluxe V facelift

Thanks, I enjoyed the thread. I thought you logging in and seeing "CatchaCuda liked 57 of your posts" might be weird.

 

[Fat Freddy]

Thanks, I enjoyed the thread. I thought you logging in and seeing "CatchaCuda liked 57 of your posts" might be weird.

A stalker eh?......

 

[Bassist59]

Quick question - Have you guys ever had a final coat come out so well that you didn’t want to wet sand or use polishing compound?

The bass body I’m working on looks pretty good as-is. I could go over it with 2000 grit wet sandpaper followed by some of my stew Mac fine and swirl remover polish.

However - anybody just skip it?

 

[Reedt2000]

Quick question - Have you guys ever had a final coat come out so well that you didn’t want to wet sand or use polishing compound?

The bass body I’m working on looks pretty good as-is. I could go over it with 2000 grit wet sandpaper followed by some of my stew Mac fine and swirl remover polish.

However - anybody just skip it?

If you're happy with it, then why not? Have you hit it with low angle light to see how level it has laid on? The swirl remover is great stuff, but won't address an uneven surface.

Pics?

 

[Bassist59]

If you're happy with it, then why not? Have you hit it with low angle light to see how level it has laid on? The swirl remover is great stuff, but won't address an uneven surface.

Pics?

I gave the body another coat since taking the photo below but it looks the same. You’re correct. I actually turn the lights out and shine a flashlight around in order to really examine the shine and evenness.

I’m going to let the body keep on drying until Friday, then I’ll take it out of the paint booth and see if there are any flaws. I’m sure there are. It’s just that the shine looks so good right now, I am hesitant to mess with it.

We’ll find out in a few days. Thanks for the reply.

This doesn’t have anything to do with my question but, here’s the neck after a good sanding, coat of wood grain filler, and shellac:

It sure looked pretty but I sanded the gloss back and sprayed it with Minwax Matte water based polyurethane because I don’t like playing on glossy necks.

Here it is re-assembled. It looked better before I flattened the sheen out but this thing is going to be a player so it’s gotta be comfortable.

 

[Reedt2000]

I gave the body another coat since taking the photo below but it looks the same. You’re correct. I actually turn the lights out and shine a flashlight around in order to really examine the shine and evenness.

I’m going to let the body keep on drying until Friday, then I’ll take it out of the paint booth and see if there are any flaws. I’m sure there are. It’s just that the shine looks so good right now, I am hesitant to mess with it.

We’ll find out in a few days. Thanks for the reply.

View attachment 3994581

Here’s the neck after a good sanding, coat of wood grain filler, and shellac:
View attachment 3994583

It sure looked pretty but I sanded the gloss back and sprayed it with Minwax Matte water based polyurethane because I don’t like playing on glossy necks.
View attachment 3994584

Here it is re-assembled. It looked better before I flattened the sheen out but. This thing is going to be a player so it’s gotta be comfortable.

Yeah, that body finish does look really nice in those pics. The neck doesn't look bad, I wonder if a little rubbing compound would bring the sheen back a bit but keep the feel you like. Nice job

 

[Bassist59]

Yeah, that body finish does look really nice in those pics. The neck doesn't look bad, I wonder if a little rubbing compound would bring the sheen back a bit but keep the feel you like. Nice job

Thanks! The finish on the back of a bass or guitar neck is tricky. I have a tele copy that I bought in 2001 and the neck had such a good feel on the back, I began to think it was bare wood. It being bare wood kind of bothered me because I wanted it sealed up and protected but wanted to retain the feel.

Around 2005, I took the neck off and sprayed it with Krylon flat clear. There was a bit of orange peel so I sanded it. Since it then looked scratched, I polished it with steel wool, then it started getting shiny, which is what I DID NOT want. I finally got it flat/semi gloss but it was a pain.

My ultimate goal with clear necks like this is to have them sealed and coated with clear coat but still look and feel like bare wood.

I had it perfect last weekend when I sprayed the neck. It had coats of shellac, and was sealed, and when I hit it with the flat poly, it looked like raw wood again....then, I added 2 more coats (per the instructions) and got that d#*n gloss back a little.

I think there’s wisdom in this hobby - know when to quit, and know when to keep at it until it’s perfect.

 

[Bassist59]

If you're happy with it, then why not? Have you hit it with low angle light to see how level it has laid on? The swirl remover is great stuff, but won't address an uneven surface.

Pics?

Here’s just an FYI for everybody. I took my now-dried glossy body out of the paint booth this morning and contemplated leaving it and reassembling the bass. The gloss was unreal perfect, however, it was so shiny that it felt sticky. Even though it’s dry, it stuck to the skin...unacceptable.

2000 grit wet sandpaper and about 90 minutes of buffing later with my drill and buffing wheel attachment made it smooth and glossy like a real Fender body. I’m still not done. (Wear double hearing protection - my ears are still ringing from that buffing drill and I had good quality hearing protection on!! - need to double up, tomorrow with earplugs, too)

Bottom line - You gotta sand and buff the thing, unless your project comes out the way you want...the catching on the skin thing didn’t work for me. Most of you must know this already. I’m still learning, I answered my own question.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Here’s just an FYI for everybody. I took my now-dried glossy body out of the paint booth this morning and contemplated leaving it and reassembling the bass. The gloss is unreal perfect, however, it is so shiny that it feels sticky. Even though it’s dry, it sticks to the skin...unacceptable.

2000 grit wet sandpaper and about 90 minutes of buffing made it smooth and glossy like a real Fender body. I’m still not done. (Wear double hearing protection - my ears are still ringing and I had good quality earmuffs on!! - need to double up, tomorrow)

Bottom line - You gotta sand and buff the thing. Most of you must know this already. I’m still learning.

Not necessarily! often buffing is all that is needed.

 

[Bassist59]

Not necessarily! often buffing is all that is needed.

I agree. I did the wet sanding with a very fine 2000 grit sandpaper and then used swirl remover. Poly is some tough material!! I’ve polished acrylic finishes up before and it didn’t take nearly as long.

My only point is, you’re not likely gonna get away with spraying alone. Maybe some will - it didn’t work for me.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

If you really want to reduce the sweat equity look into micromesh.
Micro-Mesh Types -MICRO-SURFACE FINISHING PRODUCTS, INC

To be honest, just buffing with a soft cloth removes that "skin sticky feel" I leave a mirror finish alone if low angle reveals that its level and "oops" free I just rub it down and count my blessings.

 

[primussucks9126]

Welp, another day another problem. I've been trying to finalize my color coat, but the last few coats I've tried have ended up really rough, and I'm not sure why. Its like a bunch of little fuzzballs stuck to a sweater.

I haven't done anything differently. Any sanding has all been at the same grit. The temperature hasn't really dropped here yet.

Any ideas what could've caused this or how to fix it?

 

[deff]

Welp, another day another problem. I've been trying to finalize my color coat, but the last few coats I've tried have ended up really rough, and I'm not sure why. Its like a bunch of little fuzzballs stuck to a sweater.
It's probably just drying up before it hits. It happens. Just spray wetter. Move a little closer. It really doesn't matter that much if you're clear coating
I haven't done anything differently. Any sanding has all been at the same grit. The temperature hasn't really dropped here yet.

Any ideas what could've caused this or how to fix it?
View attachment 3998968

 

[murphy]

Welp, another day another problem. I've been trying to finalize my color coat, but the last few coats I've tried have ended up really rough, and I'm not sure why. Its like a bunch of little fuzzballs stuck to a sweater.

I haven't done anything differently. Any sanding has all been at the same grit. The temperature hasn't really dropped here yet.

Any ideas what could've caused this or how to fix it?
View attachment 3998968

Is there any wind about?

If not, I suspect pollutant or air in the paint can...

Happened to me on occasions

 

[JIO]

Welp, another day another problem. I've been trying to finalize my color coat, but the last few coats I've tried have ended up really rough, and I'm not sure why. Its like a bunch of little fuzzballs stuck to a sweater.

I haven't done anything differently. Any sanding has all been at the same grit. The temperature hasn't really dropped here yet.

Any ideas what could've caused this or how to fix it?
View attachment 3998968

At the risk of sounding pedantic, you have to start with an 'ideal' spaying situation and work backwards to make clear what isn't working for your DIY finish. Ideally, a successful pro spray job has to do with control, consistency, paint formula and technique. A pro-guitar finisher, body-shop auto sprayer and/or a furniture/door/cabinet (home application) sprayer have all this under control as they are making money by being successful/efficient in this service. A dust-free spray booth/room with an exhaust fan, temperature/humidity within a specific range, a professional spray gun that is clean, adjustable/fully-operational, the correct paint in the spray-can thinned to a specific consistency, a rotatable device to be able to spray the entire body on all sides, and a heated curing space once done. Then there is wet-sanding followed by buffing-wheels with the appropriate buffing compounds.

A DIY job can come close to 'ideal' spray-job done outside under a tree with rattle can spray paint, etc, but it will never be the same as a pro job (as illustrated above) ... but it can be pretty good if one understands the limitations of not being ideal which will explain why something is less than ideal along the way.