• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Rattle Can Refinish Club

Looks good! Depending on how much of the Glitter Blast you applied, you might find you have a difficult time covering it with enough clear. I recently did one entirely in orange Glitter Blast, and after 3.5 cans of gloss clear, it still had a slightly bumpy, textured look, even after polishing. It takes a LOT of clear to cover glitter, which is why I likely won't do it again.

I've come to the conclusion that glitter blast spray is overkill.. and but it hides mistakes well.. but needs clear filler to seal.. so question it what's the thickest clear you can get.. besides epoxy.. but I saw 20.00 clear glass epoxy kits on amazon which may work.

I'm thinking use a base color then use clear as a glue and dumping glitter on the clear.. proly has a name.. but I don't know what it's call
 
  • Like
Reactions: bdplaid
Decided to refin my (new) Squier Mini P in (my fav color) Sonic Blue :cool: … will be my 4th SB refin :bassist:

31085593-876E-40A0-95D0-7FCD1241D856.jpeg
40242BE1-2E26-46A6-8385-32F7B1C0A8FD.jpeg
A60B0F2B-7056-4319-9172-7F902995B42C.jpeg
FD4CE092-98F5-4BE9-AEE9-7960AF9D8AF5.jpeg
236296CE-1C76-4534-B6B3-D9FB3E271859.jpeg
C897C47C-3C4A-4884-918C-8DB6ABFC7881.jpeg
22CA5DAA-526E-4F0D-82A5-7998C94E2C87.jpeg
5E8CB041-BE66-456A-8C55-C93D77FC1A21.jpeg
6C772949-9589-41E5-BED9-91A588FDDCD2.jpeg
 
my up date.. did a basic relic.. with the white underneath showing and i want to put a pinup model sticker on the bass.. but I'm searching and letting this seal.. i'm going to do a clear coat.. of semigloss lacquer.. after I get the image I want.. I'm putting a gold pickguard on this.. so you know so the pinup will be gold color in some part..

1976_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=Eac5WmVgggQAX-Smr46&_nc_ht=scontent-sjc3-1.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: murphy
my up date.. did a basic relic.. with the white underneath showing and i want to put a pinup model sticker on the bass.. but I'm searching and letting this seal.. i'm going to do a clear coat.. of semigloss lacquer.. after I get the image I want.. I'm putting a gold pickguard on this.. so you know so the pinup will be gold color in some part..

View attachment 4346623

or… ya could just do a pinup pg :smug: Greasy Groove has 84 to choose from :thumbsup: Nothing with gold background - but ya might find one ya like!

Invalid Link Removed
 
  • Like
Reactions: murphy
Hey guys, I've been MIA for a while but I'm finally getting around to finishing up a rebuild and have a question regarding clear coating. I'm going to spray a metallic color coat (Martin Senour Crossfire automotive) loaded into rattlecans, and then I'm planning on having a car guy shoot the clear at his shop. After reading up (I'm not worried about brand or paint compatibility), there seems to be a lot of advice that if the color coat is cured, you must scuff sand to ensure mechanical bond. But metallic finish shouldn't really be sanded because it kills the sparkle/shine. Also, the final metallic color coats should be somewhat dry to maximize the metallic effect, and in my experience, this leaves a rough-ish finish. I suspect that if this finish is fully cured and not sanded (and color and clear are compatible paints), it should provide adequate mechanical bond for the clear. Thoughts? Does anyone have any experience with rattlecan color and "real" shop-sprayed automotive clear?

(I'm not confident that I can spray the color and then get it to the shop and have them shoot the clear within the window for curing to provide a chemical bond.)
 
You considered doing it yourself in 2 pack rattle can, such as Spraymax?

I've sprayed that before. It's good stuff, but I won't do it again without proper PPE. It's pretty brutal.

I'm not sure why, but I seem to have good luck with color coats, and awful luck with clear. The prospect of having a body shop shoot the clear is extremely appealing to me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Clank Plank
I've sprayed that before. It's good stuff, but I won't do it again without proper PPE. It's pretty brutal.

I'm not sure why, but I seem to have good luck with color coats, and awful luck with clear. The prospect of having a body shop shoot the clear is extremely appealing to me.

Are you planning on polishing yourself, or having the body shop do it?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dean N
I've sprayed that before. It's good stuff, but I won't do it again without proper PPE. It's pretty brutal.

I'm not sure why, but I seem to have good luck with color coats, and awful luck with clear. The prospect of having a body shop shoot the clear is extremely appealing to me.

I had an auto shop clear the bass in my avatar about 10 years ago after my son airbrushed it. It's held up well. The problem seems to be finding a shop that wants to do it now. The guy that did that one has since retired and closed up his business. And the last two I talked to seemed reluctant to even give me a price for it.

I have another project going on and have someone who will help me do it with Krylon but I have no experience with that. I'm doubtful it'll hold up as well as the auto shop job.
 
Are you planning on polishing yourself, or having the body shop do it?

I'm going to do the finishing and polishing. I'm a believer in letting paint cure.. thoroughly.. for weeks. I have finishing stuff up to 12000 grit, I think, and some compound. I still have to get a finishing schedule figured out.

I had an auto shop clear the bass in my avatar about 10 years ago after my son airbrushed it. It's held up well. The problem seems to be finding a shop that wants to do it now. The guy that did that one has since retired and closed up his business. And the last two I talked to seemed reluctant to even give me a price for it.

I have another project going on and have someone who will help me do it with Krylon but I have no experience with that. I'm doubtful it'll hold up as well as the auto shop job.

Thanks for the response!
 
  • Like
Reactions: murphy and C Stone
Has anyone here tried to refinish a Fender Foto Flame instrument? I'm looking at one that has big chunks of the "foto" peeling off. If I can remove all the faux flame covering, would it be like doing a standard refin job?

I can't see hy the degraded finish can't be removed. A heat-gun and scraper will probably suffice. Once you get back down to wood - any finish is possible.
 
  • Like
Reactions: murphy and deff