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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,619
- 222,155
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Question for those of you using spray enamel (e.g. Rust-Oleum 2x, the newer Krylon, etc.): Have you found that if the color coat is cured already, then it's necessary to sand or scuff up the color coat on order to give the clear coat some tooth? Or have you gotten good results with the clear even without sanding the color?
I've used the Krylon several times over the last few months, and I've gotten good results without sanding the color.
Brad Angove on YT has a few Rattlecan burst tutorials. Practice on scrap first, definitely a learning curve there.
Cool, thanks! I've got a few partial cans of paint left over from previous jobs, and I'm trying to think of something to use them all at once. I was thinking of a graffiti-style thing, but I don't want it to look like a mess, so maybe a burst?
I just sold this one. It was a 1999 Fender Jazz Bass V, originally in a purple color. It was refinished a dozen times over the years. It's the bass I learned how to tech on over a decade, while I continually messed it up and corrected mistakes. It went to an old guy who wanted a five string for his cover band, I'm glad it's getting used.
Paint is Testors enamel spray. I think it was Ice Blue or Frost Blue or something like that. It's one of my favorite colors for a guitar.
Paint is Testors enamel spray. I think it was Ice Blue or Frost Blue or something like that. It's one of my favorite colors for a guitar.
got a question, i just finished this in duplicolor champagne pearl. I must of added 10 cans of 2x clearcoat, It's dry to the touch, but if i happen to lay it down onto something, the pattern of that "something" leaves a print on the clearcoat...wth
Did i not let it dry enough in between coats?..was my space too hot or cold when it was drying?, i let it hang and "gassout" as long as i could, or should i lightly sand again and go over it with a nitro clearcoat. I'm not looking for perfection as far as the finish, but i want it to be dry and not leave imprints, especially if i put it on a guitar stand, which then the marks will be on the bottom only
Did i not let it dry enough in between coats?..was my space too hot or cold when it was drying?, i let it hang and "gassout" as long as i could, or should i lightly sand again and go over it with a nitro clearcoat. I'm not looking for perfection as far as the finish, but i want it to be dry and not leave imprints, especially if i put it on a guitar stand, which then the marks will be on the bottom only
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,619
- 222,155
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
got a question, i just finished this in duplicolor champagne pearl. I must of added 10 cans of 2x clearcoat, It's dry to the touch, but if i happen to lay it down onto something, the pattern of that "something" leaves a print on the clearcoat...wth
Did i not let it dry enough in between coats?..was my space too hot or cold when it was drying?, i let it hang and "gassout" as long as i could, or should i lightly sand again and go over it with a nitro clearcoat. I'm not looking for perfection as far as the finish, but i want it to be dry and not leave imprints, especially if i put it on a guitar stand, which then the marks will be on the bottom only
View attachment 4336785 View attachment 4336786
When spraying any type of paint, shooting multiple light coats with proper curing time between coats in the correct environment is imperative. The tendency with novice spraying is over-spraying which will create a false-dry top/surface with the thick coat beneath uncured. Shooting clear over it won't solve the problem.
Yeah man, it was refinished in a Coppery metallic when I got it - originally white of course, and the refin while good was a little bland - it was probably Firemist Gold to be honest...anyhoo, it was a little on the chubby side too, so I took it to the workshop where I'd been building instruments, stripped the paint off, took to the body with the roundover router bit, and did the forearm and belly cuts on the linisher, and refinished it in black. Got it down to 8.25 lbs from 9.75. Then when I moved to the UK and was getting bored one weekend I decided to re-do it in Daphne Blue. I'll have to build me another one coz I miss the black version lol. A 55 P Bass in black with a white guard is incredibly attractive!
It's dry to the touch, but if i happen to lay it down onto something, the pattern of that "something" leaves a print on the clearcoat...wth
Ouch. My suspicion from the rest of your post is that there is just too much paint on it. But let me ask you this first: how long did you let it cure? I let mine hang for a minimum of six weeks before even thinking about final polishing and reinstalling the hardware.
But if it’s been longer than six weeks and it’s still printing on anything it touches, the only cure is to strip it all and start over. You can have a situation where, if there’s too much paint on something, the solvents get “locked” under an outside coat of dry paint and they stay wet. For years.
I usually aim for about 12 fairly light coats, 3 per day, separated by at least four hours between coats.
I think this was ambitious for my first full paint job.. but it looks good more clear to go.. but so far so good..
spray the lightest color first.. then once it dries.. spray the dark.. at angle away from the the bass.. you want you trace the edge basically.. that's how I did my burst effect... but I paint red as the base.. then glitter.. the red again around the edge.. the other thing.. you can do is use a torch on the edge.. the just use age clear on top of that..
Very impressed with some of the results here that are basically flawless and looks super awesome.
I am sure it would end up looking like crap if I attempted similar.
I am sure it would end up looking like crap if I attempted similar.
Gracey's Shell Pink nitro and clear. Wet sanded to 2000 and buffed.
Had some leftover paint from previous projects, so I decided to use it up. Squier Affinity Precision, refinished in Krylon Colormaxx Satin Lagoon Blue with Colormaxx satin clear. I also shot the pickguard with some Rustoleum Copper Rose Metallic followed by a few coats of clear lacquer, then altered the stock decal a bit. I'm digging the colored guard on this one.
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