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Double Bass Red Eye Preamp
- Thread starter Pat Harris
- Start date
Ha - yeah. I know talking about this stuff is confusing but for those of us without the unit in front of us words are all we got at the moment. When I hear mid eq I think of a bell shape but may just be me. I could see how the shelf would work well followed by the Felix. You could boost above 100 on the red-eye and then cut on the Felix if need be. I still would have loved a steep hpf on Red-eye...
Rehashing the same ole rhetoric, but… I brought my whole big pedal rig out to my “industrial playing” gig last night and I’m totally over it. Volume pedal isn’t necessary with RE’s boost, tube pre isn’t necessary to remove quack, HPF isn’t really even needed, etc. Lots of redundancy. Really digging on the aesthetic of minimum gear - full circle into red eye (w/tuner) into powered PJB speaker - for this kind of work, at any rate.
Hey everyone, thanks for the great info in this thread. Has anyone put a Red-Eye in front of a Fishman platinum? I’m leaning towards a Red-Eye and feel like it would make my platinum redundant except for the tuner and possibly the low cut (I almost always set it flat and just use it for tuning, hpf & notch).
Since you already have a DI on the Platinum, why not get the Bright-Eye and save a little money?
I have a quick question: I've heard it said on this thread that all of the Fire Eye boxes have the impedance matching effect, but their website says otherwise in the product specs.
For the Red Eye and Twin, they say "Input: Impedance-matching, accepts up to 2 volt peak-to-peak level without distortion. "
For the Bright Eye and Dee Eye, they say "Input: high-impedance, 1 million ohms, maximum 12 volt peak-peak level."
What's the deal with that?
For the Red Eye and Twin, they say "Input: Impedance-matching, accepts up to 2 volt peak-to-peak level without distortion. "
For the Bright Eye and Dee Eye, they say "Input: high-impedance, 1 million ohms, maximum 12 volt peak-peak level."
What's the deal with that?
Wow, this thread has really taken off! Played last night at Vibrato (jazz club here in LA owned by Herb Alpert) where the backline amp is a Trickfish. Very much an electric bass oriented rig. Red Eye pre to the rescue!
Warm resonant tones abounded and whether pizz or arco the bass sat perfectly in the mix. Bass into the pre, pre into the amp. That’s it! The aforementioned bass, by the way, is a recently acquired carved Eastman busetto that sings like a bird. (But that’s for another thread).
The Red Eye is the WD40 of preamps.
Warm resonant tones abounded and whether pizz or arco the bass sat perfectly in the mix. Bass into the pre, pre into the amp. That’s it! The aforementioned bass, by the way, is a recently acquired carved Eastman busetto that sings like a bird. (But that’s for another thread).
The Red Eye is the WD40 of preamps.
Good point, I honestly hadn’t considered it. I like to have a 9V battery option, but not at the expense of $70
You might want to wait for an answer to Kenan's post above, though. I'm also eager for that answer. As for the 9V, I'm with you there too, but you could (a) use an external 9v with one of those little battery-clip-to-barrel-connector adapters, or (b) look at rechargeable pedalboard power supplies (that's probably overkill if you don't have a full pedalboard tho). I think they even make USB to 9v converters now, so you could potentially use a power brick, but I've not tried that.
yes - I have used a 'power bank' with both 9v and 12V USB converters. I saw this solution suggested on TB some time ago, can't remember where...
I find a cheap 5000mAh power bank can drive my recently acquired Schertler Pre A III at 12V for a few hours. I have also used a 9V converter with NUX and Sonicake IR pedals and the little 5K bank gets you plenty of playing time unless you are using headphones out, which draws a lot more power. I recommend getting one which has some form of indication of remaining charge.
The 12V converter I have is rated at 1Amp, but my small Yamaha mixer which requires 12v / 1 amp refuses to run on it... so check current requirements before buying, then check battery life before relying on the power bank solution live.
I carry a small mains->USB charger in my bag as a backup in case of the battery dying.
p.s. the Schertler 12v supply is centre positive. Most effect pedals are centre negative... most USB adaptors default to centre positive connectors (usually you get an array of all sizes of connectors which plug into the end of the cable with two pins). The pins of the changeable connectors are often different thicknesses (not always), so there may be some cable cutting and re-soldering involved to get centre negative happening at the end of the USB 9V adaptor....
Okay -- I pulled the trigger on one of these to give it a go in my effects loop. I'm trying to retire my WW's and I am just ending up with either a million pedals or 60 pound tube amp.
When it’s available I’d like to get on the list to try out the modified Red-Eye demo when it’s available.
Ric Vice
Ric Vice
Based on the overwhelmingly positive responses to this pre...,(so far), maybe they should have named it the "Red-Pill Preamp"?
Thx.
Thx.
