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Repurposing a broken Rumble 200

If you look closely, you can see the wire just floating in space there.
 

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That wire has nothing to do with your amp. It’s either some debris, or somebody got in there trying to repair or modify it and it went very wrong.
 
What you have is a botched amp repair by somebody who was clueless.

I would recommend just replacing the power module and moving on. This is somebody else's nightmare that you don't want to be part of.

When we see something like this come into the shop, the only way we will touch it is to bring it back to the stock factory configuration with correct factory parts. That was we don't have to worry about it failing later, or burning something up down the road. By doing it this way, the safety certification remains intact too (important for us).
 
I'm not going to bother with the power section -- I'm going to re-purpose it as an external speaker for my existing amp. Now, I need to find someplace that has a 4-pin JST connector and a quarter-inch inline jack -- my current idea is to connect to the existing speaker connection (shown somewhere above, just a 4-pin female), and solder the other end to an inline jack, that way it's all reversible if I ever want to try and get the electronics fixed.

I think I found the Jst connector, and an inline jack, but I'd like to avoid double-paying shipping costs. How I wish Radio Shack was still a thing!
 
I'm not going to bother with the power section -- I'm going to re-purpose it as an external speaker for my existing amp. Now, I need to find someplace that has a 4-pin JST connector and a quarter-inch inline jack -- my current idea is to connect to the existing speaker connection (shown somewhere above, just a 4-pin female), and solder the other end to an inline jack, that way it's all reversible if I ever want to try and get the electronics fixed.

I think I found the Jst connector, and an inline jack, but I'd like to avoid double-paying shipping costs. How I wish Radio Shack was still a thing!
Radio shack never carried JST so it wouldn’t have mattered.
 
I think you're making things unnecessarily complicated.

Take the entire broken amplifier out completely and skip or store as suits you, and replace the amp chassis with a piece of lightish plywood with a quarter inch jack socket in and connect it to the woofer and nothing else. Maybe a speakon as well. If there's nothing in there that isn't actively necessary for it to be a speaker cabinet nothing can go wrong, its all utterly reversible and it will be lighter too!
 
I'm going to leave the electronics out for sure. I can't get into the front of the unit -- the speaker seems to be stuck and I don't want to force it. So, instead, I'm going to connect to that connector that leads to the speaker.

Does anyone happen to know exactly what kind of JST connector that is?
 
I'm going to leave the electronics out for sure. I can't get into the front of the unit -- the speaker seems to be stuck and I don't want to force it. So, instead, I'm going to connect to that connector that leads to the speaker.

Does anyone happen to know exactly what kind of JST connector that is?
The gasket is just sticking to the wood, a little gently pry with a putty knife under the rim at one of the screw holes will solve that.

With all of the JST connectors, you need a special 2 die contact crimping tool. I believe Fender uses a VH style.
 
The gasket is just sticking to the wood, a little gently pry with a putty knife under the rim at one of the screw holes will solve that.

With all of the JST connectors, you need a special 2 die contact crimping tool. I believe Fender uses a VH style.
I've seen JST connectors with wires already attached -- solder those to an inline jack and I should be good to go.

Edited: But, no luck yet on anything with a 3.96 pitch, 4 pin, pre-wired male.
 
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Here's the final result. I checked the resistance of the two wires before and after soldering them on, and then checked the resistance at the far end of the speaker cable when it's plugged in, all matched (around 5 ohms). Works fine!
 

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Here's the final result. I checked the resistance of the two wires before and after soldering them on, and then checked the resistance at the far end of the speaker cable when it's plugged in, all matched (around 5 ohms). Works fine!
Just note that in-line jack style is notoriously unreliable, and if it short circuits internally it could take your amp down with the failure.