Restoring a '76 Rickenbacker 4001

[Grainger]

According to Paul W. from RRF I had to remove the binding otherwise it would be impossible to remove the fretresidu... A very intensive way of work with an X-Actoknife. I will try the drilling method first, I have more faith in it than removing the whole binding not knowing to get it back on properly...

He Joep, did you just made a profile just so say that?

 

[AltGrendel]

Why not just replace the fretboard?

I don't know Ricks that well, so I have no idea if that's practical.

 

[Grainger]

There is a Ric fretboard on eBay, I have thought about it. Thing is; Rics have very different fretsboard in different widths. The chance it would fit is very, very small.

 

[9mmMike]

How can you install new frets without removing the binding? I thought (and I could be wrong) that the binding covered the edge of the frets.
Even if they are flush, how will you polish/dress the edges of the new frets with the binding in place?

 

[daveman50]

I was told long ago by a good luthier who was working on my Ric that once the neck binding is taken off, you cannot get the original binding back on - you'd need to re-do it with new binding material.

 

[Mr. Mig]

I wish you the best of luck with that.

 

[s_mcsleazy]

I'm considering filling the rest of that neck cavity with some wood, glued in sturdy to gain some more strenght. Indeed, in case the neck tends to live a life of its own.

Lynwood, I'm not such a hero myself. This is my first big project, nothing like making another Fendercopy with readymade parts. This involves some deep thinking.

And indeed, the white 4001 JFK plays is breathtaking. Mine is sort of the same. Only it's a 4003 and has black hardware. Jep, that's me in the blue shirt!

When setting up my bass I have no problem with trussrods. And you're not only one that's a bit scared of the dual rods. Gets me freaked out too. The thing is, Rics are pretty delicate when it comes to the trussrods, in my opinion.

Have you ever played a Ric before? If not, do so and start saving money. If you like a good low bass, Rics your choice!

you have my dream bass

 

[Jools4001]

I have a '73 4001 and if it were me I would be taking the binding off and replacing it once I had taken the remains of the frets out.

You've already got a good start with the broken binding, just pry it away. I would be tempted to try a hot knife first to wriggle the binding off, but also be ready to use a dremel to cut the binding off if it was too tough to prise the glue seam apart.

Then you should be able to see the edge of the filed down fret tangs and you may be lucky enough to get enough of a purchase underneath them with some sort of tool (maybe a bradawl?) to try and prise them up (this reply seems to have lots of prising involved doesn't it). The caveat is that I once misguidedly 'de-fretted' a Jazz copy by the same filing method and was completely unable to resurrect the neck....so maybe you'll want to listen to somebody who has actually succeded

Replacing the binding shouldn't be rocket science, you'll be left with a rebate around the fingerboard edge that you should just be able to glue new binding into once the rest of the fingerboard is cleaned up. You might not be able to get genoowine Ric binding, but look at it this way, the bass will be better off than it is now.

 

[Grainger]

How can you install new frets without removing the binding? I thought (and I could be wrong) that the binding covered the edge of the frets.
Even if they are flush, how will you polish/dress the edges of the new frets with the binding in place?

I've seen it done, someone on the Dutch bassforum did it with the binding still on. So I know it's possible

I was told long ago by a good luthier who was working on my Ric that once the neck binding is taken off, you cannot get the original binding back on - you'd need to re-do it with new binding material.

I'm not planning on removing the binding, yet. Only if the levering with a dentist instrument doesn't work I'll get the binding off. Appareantly it can be replaced if removed neatly before. Paul W. from RRF told me so...

you have my dream bass

Thanks!

I have a '73 4001 and if it were me I would be taking the binding off and replacing it once I had taken the remains of the frets out.

I'll try prying them out first, with the binding on. Unbinding the neck is plan B

 

[Grainger]

Let's continue where we left off!

Berts '73 solderfixed tuner came in for the screw which was missing. Hope it fits!

And it does! Eureka!

There we go, not that noticible.

Perfect! Thanks Bert!

Besides that, the mailmen had a busy day with just my stuff. Pickguards, screws, tunerscrew and knobs for the Rickenbacker. Yeah!
Nevermind the effects, those came in as well :mrgreen:

Off to the pickguards! Let's start out with the white one

I started with the white one on purpose, guessing the black one would be far more awesome! It is!

I think I'm going for black.
Little thing I did notice; the neckpup hole is a bit tight. 4001 and 4003 hardware appareantly differ on diameter and curve. Little viling will do

 

[AltGrendel]

Definitely black.

 

[Jim Campbell]

I've seen it done, someone on the Dutch bassforum did it with the binding still on. So I know it's possible



I'm not planning on removing the binding, yet. Only if the levering with a dentist instrument doesn't work I'll get the binding off. Appareantly it can be replaced if removed neatly before. Paul W. from RRF told me so...



Thanks!;

you can probably make a pry tool out of something like a hacksaw blade or thin flat stock.....grind one end down so a flange can get under the fret while you lever it back......oh yeah..."any color you like ....long as it's black"....henry ford

 

[Grainger]

There's a dentist kit on its way

 

[Buchada Azeda]

Nice job so far.

 

[mobis.fr]

Besides that, the mailmen had a busy day with just my stuff. Pickguards, screws, tunerscrew and knobs for the Rickenbacker. Yeah!
Nevermind the effects, those came in as well :mrgreen:

well... you should go for the white look and send me the black TRC
where did you get it?

i also do some blackening to my v63. i ordered a black TRC and a black pickugard last week. i should recieve my parts after eastern. can't wait for it. i photoshop a pic already... my wallpaper on my desktop.

 

[LGT]

Wow, the black looks so much better! This is totally awesome. Also, are you going to add the push/pull pot that is on the 4003s? I think that you should.

 

[Grainger]

What does this 4003s push/pull do exactly?

And Mobis, I will go with the black, in search for a black TRC. And those 'TRC's' you see there are actually bumperstickers. Don't worry, you're not the first to make this mistake

 

[LGT]

The push/pull pot activates a capacitor in at the bridge pickup. It Gives it a more trebley sound, but takes away from the bass frequencies. Some people like it, but some don't. The push pull pot switches between a bassier sound, and a treblier sound. I think that it's great for versatility.

 

[Grainger]

Ok, I'll take it into consideration!

Something else;

I have located a black TRC for the bass, which I would really want here. Only thing is, it's located in the US and the seller is somewhat unwilling to post abroad.

My real question;

Would somebody act as a middleman, so the TRC can be sent to him, (s)he sends it to me in the Netherlands. Knowing what time's getting involved in this I will compensate for the effort and time put into it.

If you're interested in making a quick buck or helping a good fellow out, please contact me through PM!

Edo

 

[Grainger]

Moving along, getting the wood block out of the bridge/mute bar cavity.

Small X-acto knife for the start

Made a small edge along the original edge to prevent the chisel from shooting underneath the lacquer íf I slip...

Larger chisel, go!

Plywood, what was this guy thinking!?

About 30 minutes later, holding my chisel overcontrolled fearing a **** up

Plywood's gone, now for the glue...

Tight, isn't it?

My victims!

Groundhole cleared, it was clotted with glue

And then I screwed on the bridge. The mutebar is too wide for the cavity, the bridge leans on the body through the mutebar. Damn it!

Measuring

Comparing

Right, just a millimeter too wide.

You'll kill me for this, but I cut away about 1 mm on each side so the mutebar would fit...

As a piece of would was cut out, the bridge sits a bit deeper. Keeping his ass up with some coins

No visible trace of the hole which held the BadAss bridge

As on the top, which you look down on whilst playing, there's quite the visible scar... Too bad...

What I noticed; this bridge does not have the usual Ric-taillift. It's totally level with the body... Weird...

No, you're not mistaken. The bridge is crooked. Sideways as well as in height (although the heightdifference on both corners to the puphole is just a 1 millimeter difference)

Quick check on the lining of the strings, keeping in mind that the bridge is crooked. Thank god, it's lined!

Now for something else. The trussrods. On the 4001 they look like this, pointed into the headstock.

As a comparisson I checked my 4003, which looked alot neater...

Now my question is, is there something wrong with my 4001 trussrods? Will it last and be a bitch to set up, or is there something seriously wrong with 'em?