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Roscoe Club

I bought scubaduba's stunning Redwood fretless 5 LG a little over two years ago and now that I'm able to travel to the 'States (At last! Curse you, COVID!) my pal who's been looking after it in Michigan will be bringing it to Vegas. I've no doubt it'll have been worth the wait!

I think I'll get him to check it in one of the following, since the Roscoe OHSC isn't sturdy enough for checked travel but too large for carry-on...

Gator GTSA-GTRBASS ATA Molded Bass Guitar Case with TSA Latches

SKB 1SKB-44PRO Pro Rectangular Electric Bass Case

...but I'm open to other case suggestions if folk have them.

Upvote for the Gator case. Fits my Roscoes perfectly.
 
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Glad you're still in the Roscoe club, Ray. Your LG is such a beautiful bass! Consider an interesting possibility. Your 35" scale LG might play as comfortably* as a 34" model (which you've said you prefer).

*After playing a 35" scale SKB back-to-back with a 34" scale SKB, I noticed no difference in my reach to the 1st fret area, or how they balanced on a strap. How could this be? The bridge on the 35" scale SKB was located near the body edge opposite the headstock. The bridge on the 34" scale SKB was located farther inward from the body edge, closer towards the headstock. In my experience the body sizes and overall ergonomics feel unchanged between 34" and 35" SKB scale lengths, due to bridge placements relative to body edge.
 
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Glad you're still in the Roscoe club, Ray. Your LG is such a beautiful bass! Consider an interesting possibility. Your 35" scale LG might play as comfortably* as a 34" model (which you've said you prefer).
It was a wake up moment when I pulled the Classifieds ad on it.
When I decided to take it to the gig and pulled it from its case, I realized that I hadn’t touched it since pulling it from the Classifieds.
It already had fresh batteries and Roscoe shop D’Addario strings, the matching 4” leather strap and polished up real good.
The case still contained the original Bartolini preamp still packed in bubble wrap along the Nordy preamp wiring diagram in the compartment with the other case Candy that were all included. :thumbsup:
It was almost like a NBD! :)
 
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I bought scubaduba's stunning Redwood fretless 5 LG a little over two years ago and now that I'm able to travel to the 'States (At last! Curse you, COVID!) my pal who's been looking after it in Michigan will be bringing it to Vegas. I've no doubt it'll have been worth the wait!

I think I'll get him to check it in one of the following, since the Roscoe OHSC isn't sturdy enough for checked travel but too large for carry-on...

Gator GTSA-GTRBASS ATA Molded Bass Guitar Case with TSA Latches

SKB 1SKB-44PRO Pro Rectangular Electric Bass Case

...but I'm open to other case suggestions if folk have them.

I miss that one.
 
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*After playing a 35" scale SKB back-to-back with a 34" scale SKB, I noticed no difference in my reach to the 1st fret area, or how they balanced on a strap. How could this be? The bridge on the 35" scale SKB was located near the body edge opposite the headstock. The bridge on the 34" scale SKB was located farther inward from the body edge, closer towards the headstock. In my experience the body sizes and overall ergonomics feel unchanged between 34" and 35" SKB scale lengths, due to bridge placements relative to body edge.
This is a tricky builder dilemma, considering modern bass playing assumes that many bass players will want comfort from the lowest frets to the highest. Where you place the bridge is a major determining factor in this. Closer to the back of the body and you have to properly design the lower bout to sit on the player’s leg where they can get to the higher frets comfortably. The further from the back of the body you put the bridge then the further the reach to the first frets. Interesting that Roscoe decided to make the reach the same on their 34” scale bass by moving the bridge further from the back of the body. Their basses are already super comfy to play, but with a shorter scale I always personally appreciate having the lower frets closer to my body, which means keeping the bridge close to the back of the body. I hadn’t thought about keeping the feel uniform by moving the bridge. Definitely a personal decision on the builder. I see Fodera and others do that as well with the bridge and it always looks off to me, but maybe it works for some! I’ve always appreciated Pete Skjold’s approach keeping the bridge all the way back on the body. That makes the most sense to me personally.
 
This is a tricky builder dilemma, considering modern bass playing assumes that many bass players will want comfort from the lowest frets to the highest. Where you place the bridge is a major determining factor in this. Closer to the back of the body and you have to properly design the lower bout to sit on the player’s leg where they can get to the higher frets comfortably. The further from the back of the body you put the bridge then the further the reach to the first frets. Interesting that Roscoe decided to make the reach the same on their 34” scale bass by moving the bridge further from the back of the body. Their basses are already super comfy to play, but with a shorter scale I always personally appreciate having the lower frets closer to my body, which means keeping the bridge close to the back of the body. I hadn’t thought about keeping the feel uniform by moving the bridge. Definitely a personal decision on the builder. I see Fodera and others do that as well with the bridge and it always looks off to me, but maybe it works for some! I’ve always appreciated Pete Skjold’s approach keeping the bridge all the way back on the body. That makes the most sense to me personally.
I would imagine that Skjold’s was requires the most retooling though…
 
I would imagine that Skjold’s was requires the most retooling though…
You definitely need different templates for different scale lengths

Edit: but maybe moving the bridge forward does simplify the process greatly. I'll have to ask a good friend about that.
 
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About the bridge location concerning the scale .....
I would think that moving the bridge back on the 34" scale somewhat defeats the reason most players opt for the 34" scale. But that said, that explains why the 34" scale Roscoes that I've played don't really feel any different than the 35" scale Roscoes.
 
…the 34" scale Roscoes that I've played don't really feel any different than the 35" scale Roscoes.
I agree. That 34” LG3000 felt about the same as my Century. I think that has more to do with how Roscoe 35” scale basses seem to feel better (to me anyway) than other builders.
I will say though, that I feel there’s a difference between how a 35” Century “hangs/feels” and how a 35” SKB or even 35” LG. I know most say there is no difference, but the strap button on my Century is at about the 12th fret. On the SKB’s I’ve tried it’s closer to the 14th fret. I always felt there was a little bit of “reach” for the 1st fret, which is why I sold my first SKB. I almost gave up on Roscoe’s but then tried a local players Century and immediately noticed a difference. My builds have always been 35” Century bodies. While I think the LG is the “quintessential” Roscoe, and I liked the 34” 4 string I had, I’m nervous to get a 35” 5 in case it feels odd to me. And of course, it could all be in my head.
 
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You definitely need different templates for different scale lengths

Edit: but maybe moving the bridge forward does simplify the process greatly. I'll have to ask a good friend about that.
I am no luthier or craft person, but I would think if you’re using precut neck blanks, it would be easier, just change where the frets are slotted. Modulus does that with their 34” scale basses- 26 frets, vs the 24 frets on a 35”, and they move the bridge up. Not sure if they pickups are in the same spot though…
 
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I agree. That 34” LG3000 felt about the same as my Century. I think that has more to do with how Roscoe 35” scale basses seem to feel better (to me anyway) than other builders.
I will say though, that I feel there’s a difference between how a 35” Century “hangs/feels” and how a 35” SKB or even 35” LG. I know most say there is no difference, but the strap button on my Century is at about the 12th fret. On the SKB’s I’ve tried it’s closer to the 14th fret. I always felt there was a little bit of “reach” for the 1st fret, which is why I sold my first SKB. I almost gave up on Roscoe’s but then tried a local players Century and immediately noticed a difference. My builds have always been 35” Century bodies. While I think the LG is the “quintessential” Roscoe, and I liked the 34” 4 string I had, I’m nervous to get a 35” 5 in case it feels odd to me. And of course, it could all be in my head.

Yes, I currently have a Century, SKB and LG (all 35" scale) and I tend to agree that the Century feels most like a 34" scale bass and is easiest for me to play.
 
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@JOME77 Tell me more.

Well basically I expected the 1st fret to be closer to my reach and it felt pretty much the same as the 35. Which stands to reason if the bridge is being moved rearward. But, that being said, I would say that Keith’s choice of where to mount the bridge on a 35” scale must be ergonomically good because it feels much more like a 34” scale than most 35” scale basses that I’ve played.
 
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The 35" scale Roscoe I've played have had better ergonomics and reach effort than many 34"scale XYZ basses I've played. To me their 35" scale is so pleasing and familiar that I was happy to find the 34" scale Roscoe feeling the same, making it seamless going back and forth between basses.
 
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The bass that got me turned on to Roscoe basses was a Spector USA bolt on 6 string. It was a fantastic bass the the ergonomics were not suitable for a person of small stature. I am 5'7" and playing in first position was almost impossible. I traded it for my Century 6 fretless and it fits me perfectly.

I am perfectly comfortable playing Century or SKB Roscoe basses. They just seem to fit me.
 
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