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Roscoe Club

In the Roscoe news front, I'm happy to say that Keith stated that the pin router is finally up and running (and rotating in the correct direction). To me that means that soon (I know, 2 more weeks :smug: ) I should get my Signature SKB-3005 back. :hyper:
 
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Nice! I just ordered a set of Aguilar PJ pickups for my Warmoth bass. I’m anxious to hear them.

Thx.
I’ve never heard the Aguilar p/u’s. I’m hoping they sound good but if I don’t dig them I’m not shy about replacing them and/or the pre.
I have heard some good things about them though.

Well I’m glad to say that I’m really liking the Aguilar PJ p/u’s paired with the Aguilar OBP-3 pre in the Roscoe. I guess that it makes sense that pairing them together would optimize the design.
I’ve never been a fan of the OBP-3 pared with Roscoe Barts but this is a totally different sound.
 
Well I’m glad to say that I’m really liking the Aguilar PJ p/u’s paired with the Aguilar OBP-3 pre in the Roscoe. I guess that it makes sense that pairing them together would optimize the design.
I’ve never been a fan of the OBP-3 pared with Roscoe Barts but this is a totally different sound.
That’s good news! I installed mine and I like what I’m hearing, glad I made the swap. One thing though: I wired them up according to Aguilar’s instructions and the blend knob operates in reverse (like a Sadowsky). It’s annoying but I can’t be bothered rewiring so I’ll leave it as is.
 
That’s good news! I installed mine and I like what I’m hearing, glad I made the swap. One thing though: I wired them up according to Aguilar’s instructions and the blend knob operates in reverse (like a Sadowsky). It’s annoying but I can’t be bothered rewiring so I’ll leave it as is.

Lol
Sometimes it's hard to tell from the wiring diagram which view of the pot you're looking at (top or bottom). I guess that you've got a 50% chance of doing it right (or wrong). It is a pain to take the blend control back out and reverse it but I'm afraid in the end I'd have to correct it (sooner or later).
 
Lol
Sometimes it's hard to tell from the wiring diagram which view of the pot you're looking at (top or bottom). I guess that you've got a 50% chance of doing it right (or wrong). It is a pain to take the blend control back out and reverse it but I'm afraid in the end I'd have to correct it (sooner or later).
You're right about wiring diagrams but I double checked and I did it according to the instructions. The only other thing I can think of is that maybe the wiring harness I used is the culprit?
 
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Does anyone have a particular push/pull pot to recommend for the active/passive mod on the Bart preamp in my SKB 3006? I want to use the same type of pot that Bart originally used because the spin is really firm and it feels really good quality.
 
Does anyone have a particular push/pull pot to recommend for the active/passive mod on the Bart preamp in my SKB 3006? I want to use the same type of pot that Bart originally used because the spin is really firm and it feels really good quality.

These posts might help .....


"I'm a man, yes I am and I can't help but loving it so!"

Well I got home this afternoon and felt super courageous!!!

I pulled my Roscoe out of the OHSC (that nobody uses anymore except JohnnyR) and went to unscrewing access covers and cutting wires!
It is finished! And it sounds really, really good!:bassist::bassist::bassist:

I can't tell any difference in the operation of the master volume prior to the preamp. You just use a 250K in lieu of the STD 25k. I used a .1mF Orange Drop cap and it worked really well. I normally would have used the .047 but I though for using it in a VTC it might sound better.
The different size concentric knobs actually look OK on the bass. The bottom knob is not very tall and the top knob is really close to the size of the standard dome knobs used for the blend and mid controls.

The passive tone control really smooths out the sound as subtly or aggressively as you want. Definitely a nice feature to add. The passive sound of the bass is also really good and actually quite a bit hotter than I thought it might be.

Here's some pics. The jury is still out on the different knob but it might just be OK. What do you guys think?

View attachment 3660270 View attachment 3660271
View attachment 3660275

Thanks Oren.
The Passive Tone control would be an easier add-on (mainly because the Noll concentric with the DPDT SW has so many small pins fairly close together). The only tense task required is opening up the Vol/VTC pot hole. The STD Bart vol pot (Alpha 25K) has a slightly smaller theaded shaft and you have to either drill the hole in the body out or use a tapered round file to open up the hole slightly. I used a tapered round file (much less risk of splintering at the hole) and it worked great (1-2 minutes).
But, that being said, IMO the A/P switch is a great feature to add that could certainly come in handy at a gig where a battery or preamp dies. Plus, these Roscoe Barts really sound great passive.

If anyone wants a Noble 250K concentric to add the Passive Tone control let me know. $20.00 to your mailbox.

The Noll pot (concentric with PP DPDT sw) is the one you want if you want a Passive tone control and active/passive mode (recommended).
 
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For a brief moment I thought, hey, if I sold both my Century 5's I could buy Jon's amazing fretless LG custom fretless. I'd still have my Classic P for fretted stuff. But then I realized while I love fretless it isn't my main bass. The P would work for a lot of stuff...but...then I came to my senses. Can't give up 2 for one - even if the one is spectacular - especially when the 2 are so amazing.
 
For a brief moment I thought, hey, if I sold both my Century 5's I could buy Jon's amazing fretless LG custom fretless. I'd still have my Classic P for fretted stuff. But then I realized while I love fretless it isn't my main bass. The P would work for a lot of stuff...but...then I came to my senses. Can't give up 2 for one - even if the one is spectacular - especially when the 2 are so amazing.

I believe you should never sell a bass you really like unless it simply no longer works for you ( 4 string vs 5 string)

Smart move Steve
 
For a brief moment I thought, hey, if I sold both my Century 5's I could buy Jon's amazing fretless LG custom fretless. I'd still have my Classic P for fretted stuff. But then I realized while I love fretless it isn't my main bass. The P would work for a lot of stuff...but...then I came to my senses. Can't give up 2 for one - even if the one is spectacular - especially when the 2 are so amazing.

I believe you should never sell a bass you really like unless it simply no longer works for you ( 4 string vs 5 string)

Smart move Steve

JLY - I needed to hear that.

With my new (to me) LG I was seriously considering selling my FSOs and just having the Roscoe to really hammer in on for a while. But it would be hard to let them go tbh. One is a Jaco sig which I love, and I would hate to sell it just to have FMC discontinue the line while it was out of my hands (which is not outside the realms of possibility). The other is a Squier Matt Freeman sig which is discontinued and worth much more to me than the $5-600 i'd get for it if I was lucky.

And tbh I don't need the money, I think my Scottish heritage just has a hard time with holding onto things just cause I want to.

That being said I did do the math and I could prob sell all 3 to buy the fretless LG for sale, which is honestly the most beautiful bass I've ever seen. But yeah a 35" fretless 5 banger as my one and only would be a challenge, ha!