"VTC" is a nice word for a simple concentric pot and simple push/pull pot with 2 added capacitors. My recommendation: build it by yourself - costs are ~ 50 €/$ with high quality pots - "schematics" of the VTC is a really simple one.....
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Care to elaborate? Although I can solder, install pickups, etc, that’s about it, but I’d really like to be able to put together a passive tone control pedal, if at all possible.
I’ve heard people say the same thing when players bought Squire Basses, however the Squire Vintage turned out to be a good bass for the cost of a “ Happy Meal. From the sound clips I heard of players playing the Metro line series.. the bass sounded amazing.
That wasn't meant about the Bass itself, It was in reference to the Pandemic and need to control the spread of Covid-19 virus.
Personally I was hoping that the Single coils were going to be maintained in this model ..I’m not a fan of hum canceling J pickups.. hopefully that will be an option to have a choice to keep the Single coils or have the hum canceling pups.
It's more than just the VTC pot. In order to install a VTC you need to replace the separate treble and bass pots with a stacked pot of the right value as well as have knobs for the stacked pot that match our other knobs.
Is this a silly idea? I was considering getting one of these but replacing the electronics to passive only to not only address the pre-amp issues but also because I actually prefer passive-only mode anyways. Was going to either rewire for passive only or even swap out the pickups with the DiMarzio DP126BK Model P+J pickups I had purchased to originally install in a Fender PJ. My intent was to wire it up: Master Vol, 3 Way Select Switch or Knob (P, PJ, J), 2 Way Switch P Serial (stock P bass wiring), or Parallel, Master Tone. Putting the P in parallel would make the neck pickup kinda act like a neck J pickup. Then after that get the bass plek'd and setup.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
That’s what I would do. I’ve never used the preamp in my Sadowskys or any other bass for that matter.
You might try how you like the original pickups passive before you change them. Sometimes a certain pickup will work fine in one bass and not so much in another.
Yeah. Is the stock China made MetroExpress a good platform to do the work I had mentioned? Or would a MIM Fender Jazz just make more sense at the same price? I would hate to put in the time & money (plek money & electronics) to have the underlying construction (wood & hardware) subpar.
I really can’t say since I’ve never seen or touched a Warwick or China made Sadowsky. But if you like his other, earlier instruments and the pre amp is your main issue I wouldn’t hesitate too much. Changing pickups and simplifying the electronics should be pretty easy on a jazz- or PJ style of instrument.
I personally would go with a Mim Fender. If want to mod it get a fender used for les money and the quality is superb on my Mexican Jazz Bass.
Good news! I have a PJ and JJ incoming for round two (very much hoping for a better experience than the first time around). Both will be getting their own full reviews, and I'll be putting the PJ up against the new Charvel San Demas PJ and the JJ against my 'Siredowsky', my Sire V7 Vintage w/ the Sadowsky drop-in preamp (LOVE this thing).
Since you've had one in your hands, putting the electronics aside, even in the original form is it worth using as a base to add the passive electronics config and have a professional setup (nut replaced, plek'd, and setup) done?
I really don't want to judge the instrument as a whole by that first example. It was definitely sub par in most respects, however Roger has made some internal changes to their QC process to ensure such a debacle never happens again. I'll save my judgement for the upcoming ones!
Is there a way to tell you are ordering an updated one vs. the original at this point?
Yes, the serial number should clarify that as should the cavity wiring. I purchased mine through Fret Nation and made sure that mine were the latest ones.
