Thank you.I think it is the same design, but the American version is likely wound in the factory here while the SBMM one likely comes from some huge factory somewhere in Asia. That said, I have both and they do sound very much the same to my ears.
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Thank you.I think it is the same design, but the American version is likely wound in the factory here while the SBMM one likely comes from some huge factory somewhere in Asia. That said, I have both and they do sound very much the same to my ears.
You certainly could. Pretty easy to replace the push pull with a same value standard pot. Just leave out that extra resistor that pads the signal.Loving my new SS4. One question about the volume boost. I can honestly say that is something I will never use. I haven't opened it up yet, but I'm wondering if I could just swap the volume-with-boost pot out, for a standard pot? Any issues foreseen?
I'm not sure about yours, but mine is not a push/pull switch, it's push/push where it sometimes stays "in" when I push it down. The only reason I would consider making this modification would be to make it always unpadded, which I think may undo the design reason for having it in place in the first part.You certainly could. Pretty easy to replace the push pull with a same value standard pot. Just leave out that extra resistor that pads the signal.
Another option that requires no new parts would be to reverse the wiring on the switch on the push/pot, making the down position the unhindered signal and pulling up the switch the padded signal.
Oh, right. I looked inside my friend's SBMM SRSS to see the mod for the 'boost' (pad) about a year ago. I forgot the form factor of the pot, it's push/push. Either way, I personally don't feel having a pad is necessary I would either quick fix the switch to reverse, or replace the volume pot.I'm not sure about yours, but mine is not a push/pull switch, it's push/push where it sometimes stays "in" when I push it down. The only reason I would consider making this modification would be to make it always unpadded, which I think may undo the design reason for having it in place in the first part.
I got one of these from Chicago Music Exchange a few weeks ago. It got from Chicago to CA in 2 days with free shipping!
It's my first Stingray and I really like it. I've played 1 gig and 4 rehearsals with it. It doesn't have the expensive components that the EBMM version does but it's an excellent instrument for the money ($600 w/tax).
One of my complaints was the tuners feeling rough and "catchy". I installed a Tusq XL nut (pretty much a drop in replacement) 2 nights ago and the biggest difference I have found is an improvement in the running of the tuners - much much smoother and it's staying in tune better.
I'm going to shim the neck over the weekend to get the action lower. I'll report my findings after that.
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I had been wondering if I should replace some of the nuts on my basses with these, and I think you've convinced me.I should have posted this here!
This Tusq XL nut has made the quality of the stock tuners on my SBMM Short Scale Stingray almost a non issue. There is a world of difference and I urge everyone with this bass to replace the nut on theirs with a Tusq XL (I have no affiliation in any way with the manufacturer). You WILL be MUCH happier with the instrument - from tuning to staying in tune!
Aluminum for sure!I'm thinking of making a new pickguard for my ss4. I'm thinking brushed aluminum would look good on the light blue. Any other ideas? I had also thought aged white pearloid. I can't decide what would look best on this color.
The aged white pearloid would look good with the maple neck.I'm thinking of making a new pickguard for my ss4. I'm thinking brushed aluminum would look good on the light blue. Any other ideas? I had also thought aged white pearloid. I can't decide what would look best on this color.
Yeah you can always do both and just swap whenever you get the urgeThe aged white pearloid would look good with the maple neck.
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If you can't find a control panel, at the very least, scuff it up with some sandpaper, clean it with some denatured alcohol, and spray a good layer of metal primer and a couple layers of your favorite matte/flat black Krylon Fusion or Rust Oleum American Accents paint. I have done this with pedal boxes and it works really well.Has anyone know if there is a drop in replacement control plate for this baby? I'm looking for a black one. Thanks in advance!
If possible I would machine some marks into it. So you get that swirling pattern. Either that or just brushed. But it looks pretty slick. Chrome would also look sweet.View attachment 4410705
View attachment 4410706 Made a pick guard out of thin aluminum (cheap baking sheet) as a test. Really like the way it turned out and looks. Thinking I’ll order a thicker sheet and make another. What do y’all think?
You know what this would look great with? An aluminum control knob plate!View attachment 4410705
View attachment 4410706 Made a pick guard out of thin aluminum (cheap baking sheet) as a test. Really like the way it turned out and looks. Thinking I’ll order a thicker sheet and make another. What do y’all think?
You know what this would look great with? An aluminum control knob plate!
Are those GHS Balanced Nickle strings?
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