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Sorry to hear that!Is anyone having trouble intonating their SS Stingray? I have two, and in both cases the saddle for the E string is pulled back as far as it goes, and notes up the neck are still a bit sharp.
This.My experience with them is that QC is hit or miss.
Ditto. My experience was similar to others, a new unit at GC was awful, but second hand one I found seems fine.This.
Reading the inputs here it seems like a good decision to buy 2nd hand from another user, who's sorted the 1st hand quality issues. I did - luckily - and got a nice bass for a killer price. My advice: buy used and save money.
Try using a taper core E string. It sounds like windings at the ball end may be too long on the strings you are using.Sorry to hear that!
Mine worked fine.
You may have to move that bridge back a tad. No hard but very inconvenient. If you are handy you could do it yourself.
I find what you have reported to be different from what has happened with my bass, and I wonder if perhaps I'm not as sensitive to intonation issues? I don't have a well-trained ear, and I've not used my tuner to really check the intonation on my little Birdy.Thanks for the suggestions on the intonation issues I’m having. Since it’s happening on both of the basses I own, I’m guessing it’s operator error.
I’ve looked at pictures of several basses on this thread. In all cases, it looks like the saddles are roughly in the middle of their adjustment range. So, I’m going to try again, with a new set of strings.

Who is this Lignum? The quick search I did was not very useful.2 of my Sterling SS one fretted and one fretless (neck by Lignum)
View attachment 5220900View attachment 5220899

They made 2 of my basses so far and 2 more are on the project table, lol.Who is this Lignum? The quick search I did was not very useful.
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They made 2 of my basses so far and 2 more are on the project table, lol.
They also made this guy’s bass
The resistor and cap does a volume cut only for lows and mids. I removed the resistor and cap and rewired the circuit for continous boost. I also removed the tone blend pot and replaced it by a 12-pos rotary switch with different caps from 100p to 100n.
As someone who made the same mod (except I just disabled the push-pull function and kept the pot). You essentially just move the wires as if you are wiring a normal pot. There is a brown wire that comes off the three-way selector which is a continuation of the "hot" of the pickup, a grounded lug soldered to the pot that gets the green wire coming off the grounded 3-way and the middle lug goes to the white wire going to the output. I also have the original wiring diagram on-hand if you want it.I would like to replace the push pull with a standard 250k pot. Can you show me how you have yours wired to connect to the three way switch, or just describe which wire goes where on the replacement pot?
Thanks in advance!
@cashmoneywill was faster than meI would like to replace the push pull with a standard 250k pot. Can you show me how you have yours wired to connect to the three way switch, or just describe which wire goes where on the replacement pot?
Thanks in advance!
I just ordered a set for my Tim Commerford passive shorty (#23 of 50). My first Stingray. I don't know about the other shorties, but the T.C. has thru-body stringing only. I'm hoping that the cobalts will work. If not, I'll put them on one of my other shorties. I have the La Bella thru-body DTFs for the Mustang on one bass, and they work great, but I want to try a set of the cobalts.
hmmm... I'm not sure they will work on the TC... I like them a lot on my SS SBMM, but they're a little too stiff to become my #1 string at this point. I do think about it a lot. FWIW, the other SS Stingrays are all top mount strings.I just ordered a set for my Tim Commerford passive shorty (#23 of 50). My first Stingray. I don't know about the other shorties, but the T.C. has thru-body stringing only. I'm hoping that the cobalts will work. If not, I'll put them on one of my other shorties. I have the La Bella thru-body DTFs for the Mustang on one bass, and they work great, but I want to try a set of the cobalts.
As someone who made the same mod (except I just disabled the push-pull function and kept the pot). You essentially just move the wires as if you are wiring a normal pot. There is a brown wire that comes off the three-way selector which is a continuation of the "hot" of the pickup, a grounded lug soldered to the pot that gets the green wire coming off the grounded 3-way and the middle lug goes to the white wire going to the output. I also have the original wiring diagram on-hand if you want it.
Glad to hear! It made a world of difference for me.Success!!!!
Thank you @cashmoneywill !!
That's what I was/am worried about. But I do have a couple of other shorties with top mount bridges that I want to restring with flats, so they won't go to waste. I'll probably just put a set of La Bella 760F-MUS thru-body flats on the T.C.hmmm... I'm not sure they will work on the TC... I like them a lot on my SS SBMM, but they're a little too stiff to become my #1 string at this point. I do think about it a lot. FWIW, the other SS Stingrays are all top mount strings.