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SBMM Stingray Short scale

Is anyone having trouble intonating their SS Stingray? I have two, and in both cases the saddle for the E string is pulled back as far as it goes, and notes up the neck are still a bit sharp.
Sorry to hear that!
Mine worked fine.
You may have to move that bridge back a tad. No hard but very inconvenient. If you are handy you could do it yourself.
 
Thanks for the suggestions on the intonation issues I’m having. Since it’s happening on both of the basses I own, I’m guessing it’s operator error.
I’ve looked at pictures of several basses on this thread. In all cases, it looks like the saddles are roughly in the middle of their adjustment range. So, I’m going to try again, with a new set of strings.
 
Thanks for the suggestions on the intonation issues I’m having. Since it’s happening on both of the basses I own, I’m guessing it’s operator error.
I’ve looked at pictures of several basses on this thread. In all cases, it looks like the saddles are roughly in the middle of their adjustment range. So, I’m going to try again, with a new set of strings.
I find what you have reported to be different from what has happened with my bass, and I wonder if perhaps I'm not as sensitive to intonation issues? I don't have a well-trained ear, and I've not used my tuner to really check the intonation on my little Birdy.
Now I have one more thing to look into with this bass! :woot:
 
2 of my Sterling SS one fretted and one fretless (neck by Lignum)
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The resistor and cap does a volume cut only for lows and mids. I removed the resistor and cap and rewired the circuit for continous boost. I also removed the tone blend pot and replaced it by a 12-pos rotary switch with different caps from 100p to 100n.

I would like to replace the push pull with a standard 250k pot. Can you show me how you have yours wired to connect to the three way switch, or just describe which wire goes where on the replacement pot?

Thanks in advance!
 
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I would like to replace the push pull with a standard 250k pot. Can you show me how you have yours wired to connect to the three way switch, or just describe which wire goes where on the replacement pot?

Thanks in advance!
As someone who made the same mod (except I just disabled the push-pull function and kept the pot). You essentially just move the wires as if you are wiring a normal pot. There is a brown wire that comes off the three-way selector which is a continuation of the "hot" of the pickup, a grounded lug soldered to the pot that gets the green wire coming off the grounded 3-way and the middle lug goes to the white wire going to the output. I also have the original wiring diagram on-hand if you want it.
 
I would like to replace the push pull with a standard 250k pot. Can you show me how you have yours wired to connect to the three way switch, or just describe which wire goes where on the replacement pot?

Thanks in advance!
@cashmoneywill was faster than me :D. As the SS Stingray pickups are of pretty low resistance with approx. 1.5k per coil you may even substitute the vol pot with a lower resistance pot like 100k.
 
I just ordered a set for my Tim Commerford passive shorty (#23 of 50). My first Stingray. I don't know about the other shorties, but the T.C. has thru-body stringing only. I'm hoping that the cobalts will work. If not, I'll put them on one of my other shorties. I have the La Bella thru-body DTFs for the Mustang on one bass, and they work great, but I want to try a set of the cobalts.
 
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I just ordered a set for my Tim Commerford passive shorty (#23 of 50). My first Stingray. I don't know about the other shorties, but the T.C. has thru-body stringing only. I'm hoping that the cobalts will work. If not, I'll put them on one of my other shorties. I have the La Bella thru-body DTFs for the Mustang on one bass, and they work great, but I want to try a set of the cobalts.
hmmm... I'm not sure they will work on the TC... I like them a lot on my SS SBMM, but they're a little too stiff to become my #1 string at this point. I do think about it a lot. FWIW, the other SS Stingrays are all top mount strings.
 
As someone who made the same mod (except I just disabled the push-pull function and kept the pot). You essentially just move the wires as if you are wiring a normal pot. There is a brown wire that comes off the three-way selector which is a continuation of the "hot" of the pickup, a grounded lug soldered to the pot that gets the green wire coming off the grounded 3-way and the middle lug goes to the white wire going to the output. I also have the original wiring diagram on-hand if you want it.

Success!!!!

Thank you @cashmoneywill !!
 
hmmm... I'm not sure they will work on the TC... I like them a lot on my SS SBMM, but they're a little too stiff to become my #1 string at this point. I do think about it a lot. FWIW, the other SS Stingrays are all top mount strings.
That's what I was/am worried about. But I do have a couple of other shorties with top mount bridges that I want to restring with flats, so they won't go to waste. I'll probably just put a set of La Bella 760F-MUS thru-body flats on the T.C.
 
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