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SBMM SUBs..yes, it's about to become even more confusing
- Thread starter SubSectorSucker
- Start date
I overestimated my angles a bit, 15 degrees is about right. As long as I can have no issues doing classical position in my left hand with no stabilizing from my right hand, it's good.
I'm with you on trying to get a good "angle" without relying on the friction of a strap, or "hand assist."
I'm satisfied with the balance of my 7 lb 15 oz SUB SB4.
However, I did a quick check and found that the stock tuners are already pretty light at 84 gm each. Replacing them with 1/2" Hipshot Ultralites would only save a bit over 4 oz in total.
I have a set of Ultralites sitting around so I may install them later this week to see if it's worthwhile.
I wouldn't bother if my SUB SB4 didn't play and sound as great as it does... after my full set up with a great set of Circle K Balanced 102 strings.
It's a really easy bass to "like" as it reminds me of my former Big Al basses in series mode.
This is coming from a guy that has his SUB SB4 hanging right next to a Bongo 4HH
Here's an SBMM...
It's sparkley and it's blue, yeah. But the pickup and guard aren't the same.
That's a great question. I've owned a USA SUB4, SUB5, Classic Stingray 4, Big Al 4SSS, Big Al 5SSS, Big Al 5H, Bongo 4H, Bongo 4HH, Bongo 5HH. I've also owned a Ray34 and Ray35.
I've never played a USA Sterling or SBMM SB14.
My SUB SB4 reminds me most of my former Big Al basses in series mode. It also reminds me of my former Warwick FNA Jazzman that had a Nordstrand MM4.2 wired in series.
I'm very pleased with the stock sound of the SUB SB4, but it does not remind me of my former Ray34 or Classic Stingray.
My SUB SB4 has substantially raised my GAS level for an EBMM Sterling 4H
Received my black/black/maple SBMM SUB Ray5 yesterday from MF and overall I can say this is going to be a tough stick to beat for $254 shipped. Here's a mini review..
The pros are the sound and playability of course. The neck is straight and after setting up with a set of EB cobalts and lowering the action, it plays great. anyone thinks of immediately ripping out the stock electronics and pup, spend some time with em. That pup is pretty hot and the exposed poles are strong - lending to that chimey tone. In fact, I think the electronics are the saving grace on this copy.
You can tell the hardware and wood is where they skimped. On that fiver, the neck is so heavy and the body's so light the neck dive is significant. The tuners are tight and feel light weight. They'll get replaced when a deal comes along. The bridge is cheapo and unless you "angle" #1 and #5 away, prepare for a little side to side shifting of the bridge pieces even at tension. The body, including the horns, on my copy is so light when I knock on it with my knuckles the entire bass almost feels hollow. That's not a bad thing - again, I think the electronics are saving the tone in a big way.
The maple neck NEEDS some conditioning out of the box. While I had the strings off, I did a couple good passes with planet waves fretboard conditioner between wipe-downs of 000 steel wool. It's soooo smooth now and no little sandy feeling bits on the back of the neck now. It looks more vintage-ized too! The black lacquer feels pretty decent and I think would take a couple light knocks before chipping down to bear wood. Then again, this will live on a stand in my home studio, so I probably wont put it through the gauntlet like some of you.
Pix coming soon.
The pros are the sound and playability of course. The neck is straight and after setting up with a set of EB cobalts and lowering the action, it plays great. anyone thinks of immediately ripping out the stock electronics and pup, spend some time with em. That pup is pretty hot and the exposed poles are strong - lending to that chimey tone. In fact, I think the electronics are the saving grace on this copy.
You can tell the hardware and wood is where they skimped. On that fiver, the neck is so heavy and the body's so light the neck dive is significant. The tuners are tight and feel light weight. They'll get replaced when a deal comes along. The bridge is cheapo and unless you "angle" #1 and #5 away, prepare for a little side to side shifting of the bridge pieces even at tension. The body, including the horns, on my copy is so light when I knock on it with my knuckles the entire bass almost feels hollow. That's not a bad thing - again, I think the electronics are saving the tone in a big way.
The maple neck NEEDS some conditioning out of the box. While I had the strings off, I did a couple good passes with planet waves fretboard conditioner between wipe-downs of 000 steel wool. It's soooo smooth now and no little sandy feeling bits on the back of the neck now. It looks more vintage-ized too! The black lacquer feels pretty decent and I think would take a couple light knocks before chipping down to bear wood. Then again, this will live on a stand in my home studio, so I probably wont put it through the gauntlet like some of you.
Pix coming soon.
Got my 5'er last week,and was very impressed with it for $254.00. I don't think you can go wrong with it for what it is. Obviously not a $1600 Ray,but well worth what they are selling for. For those who want to buy a high dollar Ray,this is a stepping stone,before you lay out the big bucks to see if it's the bass for you. Going to gig mine this weekend,so I will report on it next week.
I believe he's saying the bridge saddles will resist side-to-side movement better if you lower the outer edge of each of the outside saddles. Then, the downward pressure of the string over the saddle will also tend to "pull" the outer saddles towards the center and minimize any movement.
So the saddles (height adj.) are not in any type of grove? I think some old Fenders were that way.
The saddle height adjustment set screws seat in a shallow groove.
The new SBMM SUB series basses are a cost effective "licensed" versions of tried and true USA EBMM bass models.
The EBMM bridges are bullet proof heavy gauge chrome plated steel and have large saddle retaining studs to eliminate any possibility of saddle movement.
I'm on the fence about buying one of these but I'm thinking it will make me want a MM, I have never been satisfied with a entry level bass which is too bad because I would like to be.
If it feels good and sounds good then maybe it's a keeper. but it would have to have that MM growl, does it?
Ouch. Deal killer for me right there. I was thinking of ordering one online, but it looks like I gotta find one in person to try to see how bad. I just can't do neck dive.
Re: pix - when I get home, Ima gonna play, then eat, then pix!! 
Re: Neck dive, this girl goes down like a crackhead the day before rent's due. I played one of the SB4's at GC the other day and it wasn't as bad - probably due to less wood on the neck. Just a guess. I'd suggest you play one though - maybe it'll be less bad than I make it out to be.
Re: the saddles - my bridge does not have have grooves where the outer set screws can rest like on most pro bridges. Therefore I have to do this (if you were looking at the bridge from directly behind, each dash is a saddle):
-----
I have to do this more or less:
/---\
Maybe it's mental but it seems this "curve" helps press the B saddle into the E saddle and G saddle into the D saddle if that makes sense. Otherwise, I was noticing a little side to side creep of the B and G. I'm actually a drummer (boooo!), so I tend to really dig into the strings.
Re: Neck dive, this girl goes down like a crackhead the day before rent's due. I played one of the SB4's at GC the other day and it wasn't as bad - probably due to less wood on the neck. Just a guess. I'd suggest you play one though - maybe it'll be less bad than I make it out to be.
Re: the saddles - my bridge does not have have grooves where the outer set screws can rest like on most pro bridges. Therefore I have to do this (if you were looking at the bridge from directly behind, each dash is a saddle):
-----
I have to do this more or less:
/---\
Maybe it's mental but it seems this "curve" helps press the B saddle into the E saddle and G saddle into the D saddle if that makes sense. Otherwise, I was noticing a little side to side creep of the B and G. I'm actually a drummer (boooo!), so I tend to really dig into the strings.
Re: pix - when I get home, Ima gonna play, then eat, then pix!!
Re: Neck dive, this girl goes down like a crackhead the day before rent's due. I played one of the SB4's at GC the other day and it wasn't as bad - probably due to less wood on the neck. Just a guess. I'd suggest you play one though - maybe it'll be less bad than I make it out to be.
Re: the saddles - my bridge does not have have grooves where the outer set screws can rest like on most pro bridges. Therefore I have to do this (if you were looking at the bridge from directly behind, each dash is a saddle):
-----
I have to do this more or less:
/---\
Maybe it's mental but it seems this "curve" helps press the B saddle into the E saddle and G saddle into the D saddle if that makes sense. Otherwise, I was noticing a little side to side creep of the B and G. I'm actually a drummer (boooo!), so I tend to really dig into the strings.
Got it! It needs those channels (I would think)
I guess when the body is that light it may have some neck dive...
