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SG & EB Bass Club

Slight update on the above. I had an opportunity to turn my amp volume up above what my normal practice volume is, and lo and behold, the neck volume is louder than I first experienced, and the volume difference between the 2 pups is a lot less. But my E-string is definitely not as full as the other strings, and raising the pup pole doesn't alleviate it, so I ordered a Hipshot Supertone bridge and a DiMarzio Model 1 neck pup for my SG. I'm going to swap the bridge first, as I have a feeing that the issue is stemming from the E string over-wrap sitting on the saddle. The E seems to be more dull sounding than the other strings, so this may cure the issue. If not, then I'll go thru with the pup swap. I was planning on swapping the bridge eventually because I like the extra adjustability, so this just hurried it along. Update sometime next week.....
 
I would have gone with the Babicz Bridge myself. One thing I noticed on my EB/SG Gibsons over the years, an amp with a decent amount of power, works well with Humbucking pups. The Humbucking works almost as an active pup, putting power on the front end going into the head.
I have a Supertone on my Jack Casady bass, and I love the simplicity and easy adjustability it has. The Babicz is a fine bridge, too, though, and I liked it on the Gibby (modern) EB Bass that I owned for a little while (I should have kept that bass!). The rig I ran it thru is my Aguilar TH350/Eden 112 4ohm cabinet. It definitely has oomph behind it! I've just been playing it relatively quietly, but once I turned it up the bass came to life. The E is still a bit weak, though, so hopefully I get it sorted out next week. I do appreciate your advice though, for sure!
 
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Tbone: I had the same issue with my SG. Medium gauge strings (.050"-.110") nickel rounds solved my problem. I'm currently using Dunlops, because that's what I have lying around, but I think the issue is more that the SG needs a larger diameter E string to properly ring out.

It's hard to find short scale .050"-.110" strings but the SG has a pretty large diameter tuning post and thus far the long scale Dunlops wind and work OK. I did have to tweak the truss rod a quarter turn though. Just an inexpensive thing to try, IMHO.
 
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Update #2:
Received my Supertone bridge and Model 1 pup in the mail today. I stripped the old bridge off and was all ready to install my new bridge, but instead of the set of bolts that came with my last supertone bridge, the bridge came with 2 collared studs with a nut on top, and 2 studs that I assume get sunk into the body. The threads are different than the stock Gibby bolts, so I couldn't even jury rig them together. I'm most definitely NOT attempting to pull the stock bridge studs out of the body, as they aren't pulling out and seem securely in place. I tried calling Hipshot directly but I didn't find out about the discrepency until they were closed for the day. So, I'll be calling them first thing tomorrow to remedy the situation. I also checked the part numbers between this bridge and my other Supertone, and they're the same:banghead: My bet is they shipped the wrong bolts, and can send me a new set tomorrow. I haven't installed the pickup, yet, either, because I'm having my shop do that job. I've had great experiences with all my other prior Hipshot purchases (ultralites, d-tuners, and my first Supertone), so I'm sure this was an isolated snafu. They're located in NY, so hopefully they can have the parts to me by the weekend. Followup to follow.....
 
Update #2:
Received my Supertone bridge and Model 1 pup in the mail today. I stripped the old bridge off and was all ready to install my new bridge, but instead of the set of bolts that came with my last supertone bridge, the bridge came with 2 collared studs with a nut on top, and 2 studs that I assume get sunk into the body. The threads are different than the stock Gibby bolts, so I couldn't even jury rig them together. I'm most definitely NOT attempting to pull the stock bridge studs out of the body, as they aren't pulling out and seem securely in place. I tried calling Hipshot directly but I didn't find out about the discrepency until they were closed for the day. So, I'll be calling them first thing tomorrow to remedy the situation. I also checked the part numbers between this bridge and my other Supertone, and they're the same:banghead: My bet is they shipped the wrong bolts, and can send me a new set tomorrow. I haven't installed the pickup, yet, either, because I'm having my shop do that job. I've had great experiences with all my other prior Hipshot purchases (ultralites, d-tuners, and my first Supertone), so I'm sure this was an isolated snafu. They're located in NY, so hopefully they can have the parts to me by the weekend. Followup to follow.....
Some of the guys in the Tbird club were talking about this. I guess you can put a ball bearing into the hole and tighten the bridge screw into the ball bearing, pressing the insert out of the body of the bass...
 
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Some of the guys in the Tbird club were talking about this. I guess you can put a ball bearing into the hole and tighten the bridge screw into the ball bearing, pressing the insert out of the body of the bass...
I'd rather not attempt it, because the factory studs fit well with no movement, and I don't want to fix it if it ain't broke, so to speak. I sent an email to Hipshot tech support, and I'm going to follow up with a call tomorrow, so I'm confident that they'll set it straight. I've heard good things about their customer support, also. If it turns out that they've changed to this new style of mounting stud, then I'll ship it back and try to find a Mod-Bar. No worries!
 
And another update to add:
Jason from Hipshot Tech Support emailed me back this morning, and he said they'll be shipping the correct bolts immediately:bassist:. His quick response saved me a phone call, and since they're in the Finger Lakes area, I'll hopefully have them this weekend:). Just want to give a quick public thank you to the Hipshot folks for the timely and great customer service:thumbsup:
 
Good news partner. Glad to see them follow up on your issue with their product.
Yes it is. I've heard really good things about their CS department, and happily, I wasn't let down. TBH, if my stock bridge studs were pulling out, I'd have given it a try with the swap, but mine are solidly mounted and flush, and they even have a layer of nitro over the top of them. No need to mess with 'em.
 
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Reading your post reads the way my Customer Service response went with D'Addario, when I had a rare string issue. It's great to see companies backing their products as such.
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Your bridge is a critical piece to have fitting well. I really want to see the Beast on your Bass.
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You and I both, brother!
 
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And, pics, as promised:
View attachment 698787
View attachment 698788 The new bolts arrived today, and after a painless 20 minute install/intonation, she plays beautifully! And once again, a big thank you to Jason L. at Hipshot for the great customer service!
I really like the looks of the new bridge. It retains a lot of the general aesthetics of the original yet falls into the intuitive adjustment camp from a functionality standpoint. Good play sir!
 
Thanks @gsgbass and @GBassNorth for the positive comments! It really is a nicely made piece of hardware, and it also has set-screws on the saddles to adjust the string spacing. I do like the aesthetics of the Gibson 3-point "oil rig" bridge, but the Supertone just works better for me. Intonation is easier to adjust, and you can remove all 4 strings at the same time without the bridge disassembling itself! Add in not having to worry if the E and A string overwind are going to sit on the bridge saddles (so any string will work without issue), and that seals the deal. Then there's the already mentioned great customer service support. I'm proud to have one on both this bass and my Jack Casady bass.

FWIW, the Babicz bridge that I had on my modern Gibby EB bass was a beautifully made bridge, too, and I imagine the 3-point version would be no different.
 
I did snag the 2014 SG Spl. today. A great playing Gibson.

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She's a beauty, congrats! The SG Faded and Special models were the best value in the Gibson line, bar none. I can understand the reason they probably discontinued them, but at $899 new for the Faded, and an even cheaper $750 for the Special, you couldn't go wrong, especially on a unique-sounding, US-made, nitro finished bass. I'm glad I finally gave the SG a shot (I stayed away for a while because I thought the body was too small), because it's been all I've been playing since I got it. It doesn't feel, sound, or play like my Fender, and that's ok. Now all you need to do is give one of the aftermarket bridges a shot!
 
While I'm thinking about it,I had posted a page or two back about my tuners on my chocolate SG not being marked Grover but they are on my Fireburst.
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Anybody have this going on.I know they are Grovers cause I bought the Chocolate brand new from GC right after they came out.It hadn't been in the store but about a week when I picked it up.
 
Has anyone tired these? I need to redo the wiring in my EB-3 copy and I'm thinking of going all out...Are these worth it?

Rothstein Guitars
I haven't tried the EB copy but I did use Rothstein Guitars to make up a '62 Jazz bass control set and it came out great. They were very professional and responsive. The price was on the premium side but so was the product and service.
 
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What's the difference between the faded and special models,if any really?
The finish choices are different (Faded models were either Heritage Cherry or Ebony; Specials were Heritage Cherry, Fireburst, or Chocolate), and the Special has the "120th" inlay at the 12th fret. The Faded model also cost a little more, at least, initially. Everything else is the same between the 2.
 
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