TIJF's do not like steep break angles. They tend to die at the bridge piece. I'd be careful with that.
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Short scale, flatwounds, and a pick
- Thread starter BuzzVerde
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- flatwound pick short 30” scale
True, but Inwas addressing the comment was of not being able to hear it as well in the mix when using a pick.
True, but I was addressing his comment of not being able to hear it as well in the mix when using a pick. For the record I made no comment or suggestion that what he did was wrong or of less quality, nor did I said anything that questioned his judgement. In fact I congratulated him on finding his preferred sound.
If you took what I posted as derogatory comment, he’re one to go with it. You may want to brush up on your reading comprehension skills.
I love short scales with TI flats and a pick.
The problem (IME, with hollowbody basses at least, which are more prone to exhibiting intonation issues, wolf tones, etc.) is that short scales and flats equal a thuddy, out-of-tune E string with most strings. TI flats are fantastic at maintaining good intonation, sustain and evenness across all strings. The only three string sets I've found that work well on short scales (at least when brand new, but who wants to wait a year or so for the strings to settle down?) are the following:
- TI Jazz flats
- Ernie Ball Cobalt flats
- LaBella DTFs in their extralight gauge
I haven't tried LaBella LTFs, but this suggests that short scales really call for flexible flatwound strings if you want them to sound with "modern accuracy". In fact, my findings are that most other strings are too stiff at the lower tension of a short scale bass to sound good (at least in the modern sense of the word) on the low strings. Of course, the problem goes away if you mute the strings at the bridge, and it's much less offensive if you play with fingers due to the lower harmonic content. And obviously, if you play '60s style (ie. not playing the E string much at all, and possibly with the tone control rolled down), the problem has less of a chance of getting in the way.
On long scale basses, OTOH, I find that most flats (but not all flats) are in their sweet spot of tension vs stiffness and sound better.
(I also believe that most bassists will be better served by roundwound strings, as they can cover a bit more territory, and that most people will benefit from having at least one bass strung with rounds).
The problem (IME, with hollowbody basses at least, which are more prone to exhibiting intonation issues, wolf tones, etc.) is that short scales and flats equal a thuddy, out-of-tune E string with most strings. TI flats are fantastic at maintaining good intonation, sustain and evenness across all strings. The only three string sets I've found that work well on short scales (at least when brand new, but who wants to wait a year or so for the strings to settle down?) are the following:
- TI Jazz flats
- Ernie Ball Cobalt flats
- LaBella DTFs in their extralight gauge
I haven't tried LaBella LTFs, but this suggests that short scales really call for flexible flatwound strings if you want them to sound with "modern accuracy". In fact, my findings are that most other strings are too stiff at the lower tension of a short scale bass to sound good (at least in the modern sense of the word) on the low strings. Of course, the problem goes away if you mute the strings at the bridge, and it's much less offensive if you play with fingers due to the lower harmonic content. And obviously, if you play '60s style (ie. not playing the E string much at all, and possibly with the tone control rolled down), the problem has less of a chance of getting in the way.
On long scale basses, OTOH, I find that most flats (but not all flats) are in their sweet spot of tension vs stiffness and sound better.
(I also believe that most bassists will be better served by roundwound strings, as they can cover a bit more territory, and that most people will benefit from having at least one bass strung with rounds).
Thomastik JF324 are short scale, I have them on my Mosrite build.
35" from ball to taper so best strung thru body or with a two piece bridge.
See above.
Normally I’m a long scale/rounds/fingers guy but I do have a Dan Armstrong Danelectro with a 20-year-old set of LaBella Danelectro flats on hand because…. well…. sometimes you just gotta have it!
The pick playing is coming especially slowly for me. I foolishly eschewed playing with a pick for about 30 years and now I’m playing catch-up. I’m using a pick about 1/3 of the time now.
I seem to remember a left-handed, British guitar player making a Höfner bass, flats and a pick work pretty well for him in a number of different styles. What was that guy’s name again…. ?
The pick playing is coming especially slowly for me. I foolishly eschewed playing with a pick for about 30 years and now I’m playing catch-up. I’m using a pick about 1/3 of the time now.
I seem to remember a left-handed, British guitar player making a Höfner bass, flats and a pick work pretty well for him in a number of different styles. What was that guy’s name again…. ?
JF 324 or JR 324 do not fit most top load 30.5" scale basses IME. Nordy Cat, Schecter banshee, Hofner club. All those would have silk below the nut. As far as string through goes, we so hqve to be careful of the break angle on the JF's. They are really not constructed for a sharp break angle. I learned that the expensive way years back. Not long in, maybe 3 months the E started coming apart at the bridge piece. I recall that on string through or top load Lakland. Needless to say I too loaded the rest of the set and scrambled for a worn in E
Last I new, 324's were considered medium scale. I have JR's on a 72 Guild JS1 and JF's on a 72 M-85II and on a mid teens Newark Street edition Starfire.
That'll be why I recommended thru body or two piece bridge.
Well I hope nobody tells my SC P-basses. I've 6 of those, all two saddle thru body bridges with TI JFs. Oldest set have been on for 13 years, newest just 8 years.
I guess it's impossible now to get good tones recording and live with 34" scale basses.
The only reason to have a long scale bass is for a low B.
Short scale, flats, pick. That's me. SS P-bass and SS J bass. Currently using the P. Both inexpensive. Both sound fine for my limited needs. One thing I do that's out of the ordinary is use a really thin nylon pick (.63mm) because it dulls the inital attack a bit, which is my preference. I also grip way down on the pick so only about 3/16" is visible, which may negate the bendiness, but it is comfortable.
I find some gigs call for longer scale, roundwound strings and/or fingerstyle.
... but not all of them!
... but not all of them!
I have a dozen basses with scale lengths at 30", 32" and 34". I have more short scale basses than any other single scale length.
I've been a believer in flats since I started playing electric bass in 1967, because they sound "right" to me. When I discovered short scale basses I quickly came to prefer the weight, balance and feel of short scale. Most of the time, I play short scale, but I have use the longer scale basses when the fit moves me.
Pick? Never learned. Don't feel that it's a high priority, either.
I've been a believer in flats since I started playing electric bass in 1967, because they sound "right" to me. When I discovered short scale basses I quickly came to prefer the weight, balance and feel of short scale. Most of the time, I play short scale, but I have use the longer scale basses when the fit moves me.
Pick? Never learned. Don't feel that it's a high priority, either.
Jerry Jones Longhorn
D’Addario flats
1.0 Clayton pick
Perfect!
D’Addario flats
1.0 Clayton pick
Perfect!
