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Show your Bill Fitzmaurice cab

Big? Gigantic? The 15's are less than 2ft. in any dimension, the 12's even smaller. If you're refering to sound, of course, you are correct.

Obviously there's an element of individual preference here... 22 x 22 x 20 isn't huge, and the weight isn't bad for 5.6cf, but the size & shape would make it an awkward carry for some. I'd probably choose 12s over 15s for that reason.
 
Obviously there's an element of individual preference here... 22 x 22 x 20 isn't huge, and the weight isn't bad for 5.6cf, but the size & shape would make it an awkward carry for some. I'd probably choose 12s over 15s for that reason.
The advantage to the 15 is being able to knock down walls at the lowest possible cost. I do have casters and a pull up handle on my J15, not for the weight but the bulk.
a guitar type cab for the distorted is your best bet, you don't need bottom from the distorty cab, and guitar speakers made for good drive noise. Do a BFM Xfire for the guitary one
+1, you don't need the size of a J15 for distortion. An XF210 atop a J15 would be a monster setup.
 
I find my Jack 12 awkward to carry, too. But its performance makes it more than worthwhile, and it fits into my (small) car.

In the early 90s I used an Ampeg SVT CL and 8X10 cab, both in flightcases. I was younger and stronger then.

In conclusion, nothing beats a J12 for its balance of performance and portability. IHMO. :)

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I see a lot of people talking about the convenience of carrying and moving different cabs, but isn't it all about the sound?

When someone comes up to you after a show and says that they couldn't hear you, or that the sound coming out of your rig sounded terrible with the band, are you going to counter with, "Yes, but it is very convenient for carrying"?

Are you building the amp because you enjoy moving it from place to place or because you want your performance to sound awesome?

I mean, if you want convenience, get a DI box and skip the amp all together. But if you're interested in a good sounding set up, get the amp that sounds the best for what you're doing and get a dolly or a cart or something if it's a bitch to carry.

Much like most of things in life, gigging is not reducible to a single influencing variable. How much of a pain it is to pack up at the end of the night, and how fast I set up, are both big factors to how much I enjoy a performance. Me getting on and off stage faster makes the whole show better. Me not hurting my back hauling stuff or banging my cab on doorways makes me happier.

In short, no. It's not all about the sound. If it was, would anyone have bothered with making 3lb amps? Would Bill have bothered making cabinets that are insanely loud for the size in the required bandwidth for bg? why not just use more quieter cabs?
 
I see a lot of people talking about the convenience of carrying and moving different cabs, but isn't it all about the sound?

When someone comes up to you after a show and says that they couldn't hear you, or that the sound coming out of your rig sounded terrible with the band, are you going to counter with, "Yes, but it is very convenient for carrying"?

Are you building the amp because you enjoy moving it from place to place or because you want your performance to sound awesome?

I mean, if you want convenience, get a DI box and skip the amp all together. But if you're interested in a good sounding set up, get the amp that sounds the best for what you're doing and get a dolly or a cart or something if it's a bitch to carry.

Interesting sidetrack in this thread, but I believe the above comment is what this thread is all about (although I do think dcodym is missing the point a bit....) Nowhere in this thread, as well as countless others, will you find any reference to a musician buying or building a cab solely for the sake of convenient transport. Over the past twenty years or so, there has been continued R&D in materials, speaker design, and cabinet dimensions, all intended to deliver big cabinet sound in a smaller, more portable box. BMF and fEARful, two top-level cabinet designers, have proven big sound can come from small cabs, and I'm sure almost all of us here have some kind of Major Brand cabinet we're using ie., I have an EA Wizzy12, and an AccuGroove Tri112. Both small, portable, lightweight, loud, and great-sounding cabs. I also have an AccuGroove El Whappo Jr 212 cab, which I seldom use because my two single 12's can be used individually or together, are easy to "schlep", don't take up much room on stages that seem to be increasingly shrinking, and put out big, clean, clear sound. Combined with the state-of-the-art small and portable heads available today (Genz Benz, TC Electronics, Mark Bass, EA, my own Walter Woods, etc.), it's entirely possible to come close to the industry/touring benchmark; the Ampeg SVT and 8x10 Cabinet, without the weight and cubic space to deal with.

I liken all of this to this simile; automobiles of the fifties/sixties were large and lumbering for the most part, with an inefficient big-block, gas guzzling motor. They got you from point A-to-B, and we were blessed during that time that gas was cheap! Now we have cars designed with better ergonomics, smaller, more efficient engines, more aerodynamic bodystyles, etc., etc. Now I happen to love old classic cars, but it's no secret new cars (of all shapes and sizes) do a better job of getting us to our destination in a safer, more comfortable "shell", with as much, if not more, power from smaller, more efficient engines. I could spend more time making this point more clear, but you get the point I think....

I have bought Bill's Plans CD, and would love to build a Jack12, and an Omni 12, but don't have the space at the moment. I have been an avid reader over the past five years or so of his website and forum, along with this thread. By now I believe it's obvious, with all of the cabinets built and used by bass players around the world, Bill's designs stand up to the best Major Brand cabinets being built today. They are comparably cheap to build, are more efficient, lightweight, produce great sound, and can be customized to suit the builders tastes and esthetics.

But, to put it succinctly; these cabinets are designed to be All About The Sound! Why else would Bill's designs be going strong after all these years? I still look forward to the day I can build one!
 
Guys, I completely stand corrected. I apologize for distracting from the thread and for saying something, as I see now, was kind of ignorant.

Having the perfect sounding amp, I see does not always mean having the perfect gig. Sorry for sounding like a snob. I humbly offer my apologies.

I really was, ignorantly so, confused by the issue, but I see how playing five nights a week with a back breaker could quickly outweigh getting the perfect sound after a month of hauling something like that around.

Luckily, though, I think most people will find that Bill has a ton of options to be able to suit anyone's situation.

...sorry if I was douchey...
 
Note my pic includes two basses for scale. Mine are Jack 10s, and while they are not large, they can be a little awkward. Put a strap handle on the side, right under the horn brace, and you're good to go.
 
Just finished the last 2 subs. system consists of 4 Jack 10's with 1" throat drivers, and 2 Jack 10's with the Piezo array. Subs include 2 Tuba 24's and 2 Tuba 36's. I use whichever sub makes sense for the space.
 

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Just finished the last 2 subs. system consists of 4 Jack 10's with 1" throat drivers, and 2 Jack 10's with the Piezo array. Subs include 2 Tuba 24's and 2 Tuba 36's. I use whichever sub makes sense for the space.

Looks well-built. Could you talk a little about the horn and drivers, and compare/contrast with the piezo arrays... how sound and usage differs?


Wow excellent work. Why did you go T36 instead of T60?

... or T48, or T39... Guessing this is a DJ rig.
 
OK, I was searching past topics and there always seems to be someone making one, but rarely if ever someone that has finished one. Still, they get recommended to users every now and then. So, I'd like to see some photos from users that actually have one... with a small review, if they use them as standalone or with other cabs etc.

I finished more than a few. This is my PA system I built. I will let youi know how it sounds after the 11th.
 

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Wow excellent work. Why did you go T36 instead of T60?

Actually the set of plans I bought (Iwent for the whole shooting match) came out prior to the T60's being available. There is also the matter of hauling these things. I originally started building Jack 10's to use as a practice system and for very small gigs. However, there is a danger in seeing your projects come to life...you want to build more. The dang things just kept calling me out to the shop. I am thinking of trying my hand at the DR's next. As to sound, the mids and highs of the jacks are stunning, especially with the 1" throat drivers. The Tuba 24's are great in a medium room, but I needed the 36's for outside work.
Rick
 
I finished more than a few. This is my PA system I built. I will let youi know how it sounds after the 11th.
Not as good as they would if you'd followed the plans. Those loaded with the compression horns won't vertically array. Those loaded with the piezo arrays don't have enough elements for PA use. And neither has the horizontal dispersion or sensitivity of melded arrays. That doesn't mean they don't sound good, just that they could sound even better.
 
Not as good as they would if you'd followed the plans. Those loaded with the compression horns won't vertically array. Those loaded with the piezo arrays don't have enough elements for PA use. And neither has the horizontal dispersion or sensitivity of melded arrays. That doesn't mean they don't sound good, just that they could sound even better.

Hey, the mad scientist himself. First thanks for great plans that were, for the most part, pretty easy to follow. I know, I didn't follow them exactly, but when I started the first build, a pair of Jack 10's, this system was the farthest thing from my mind. I am going to build a pair of DR 280's next, and that will render all the shortcomings of my present construction a moot point. Those, with the pair of Tuba 36's will be more than enough to cover the places I play. I deviated from your plans in one other aspect. I used 3/4" Aruco for the exteriors of all cabs. I build cabs with the worst roadies imaginable in mind, as if I ever had roadies. As long as I have your attention, I will post a pic of one other bass bottom I built...enlisting your thoughts.
Best regard,
Rick
 
Always cool to see someone learn something, apologize, and come straight with it.
Kudos, amigo.

And now back to the thread. BTW, I'll be gigging my Omni10 this week. It's a great cab, and perfect for my Folk in A gig.

Guys, I completely stand corrected. I apologize for distracting from the thread and for saying something, as I see now, was kind of ignorant.

Having the perfect sounding amp, I see does not always mean having the perfect gig. Sorry for sounding like a snob. I humbly offer my apologies.

I really was, ignorantly so, confused by the issue, but I see how playing five nights a week with a back breaker could quickly outweigh getting the perfect sound after a month of hauling something like that around.

Luckily, though, I think most people will find that Bill has a ton of options to be able to suit anyone's situation.

...sorry if I was douchey...
 
Bill,
I used the desgin for the Tuba 24 for the bottom half of this cab, using 2 10" BP101 Eminence spkrs, and 2 more for the top half, front loaded at an angle. Cab is 25" wide over all. The top half is vented through the gap in the face, and the spkr chamber has an angled back to avoid reflections or standing wave problems. Not sure if the design makes sense, but on stage I have great volume and out front the projection is pretty astounding. Your thoughts?

Rick
 

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