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Six string spalted maple, fretless, and first build ... kit

#21
I would LOVE to do a very similar thing with the same kit minus all of the finishing stuff you're planning (only because I would screw it up and ruin the thing). I've got almost no experience in any of this but it doesn't appear (ahem) to be too difficult. Depending on what you run into and how you get it done I might be buying and building my own feet less 6 this spring.

Can't wait to see the progress!!!!

Congrats!
 
#22

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#23
Err, I hit post too soon...

That's the red mahogany on the back of an Ibanez Craigslist find I practiced modding before I bought this kit. Staining that neck gave me the (limited) experience to attempt this.

I also bought a 2x4 at Home Depot that I practiced the blue stains on before trying it on the maple sample piece.

image.jpg

The "winning" ocean water Minwax stain is on the right 2x4.

While I got this kit delivered last Wednesday, I've been working toward it for over two months.
 
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#24
Rainy day + stuck home because I'm on call for work = shopping spree online!

I've bought new knobs for the pre-amp, ferrules for the string-through bridge, Dunlop strap-locks, copper shielding tape, epoxy and rosewood powder (for filling the holes created when i remove the inlays on the fretboard), a soldering iron kit, digital caliper, and a multimeter.

I never made it out yesterday to get the coping saw, but I have a list of things to buy at Home Depot when I can go. I'll order the Pope Flexcore pre-amp after payday next weekend.
 
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#26
I'm testing finishes this week while I wait for parts ordered over the weekend to arrive. I'm happy with the Tru Oil, and that will probably be the body finish.

I tried a Minwax clear satin water based finish but it didn't look good. There were lots of ripples and pebbles on the surface, and it just didn't look right. I only did two coats, as opposed to the eight or nine of the Tru Oil.

What do folks use to apply CA glue to a fretless fretboard? I'm using a sponge brush on my test neck and the first coat looked good, but I just put the second one down (after letting the first cure for 24 hours) and I saw little pebbles forming on the top. I'm going to let it dry and cure again for 24 hours, but I'm afraid I need to strip it back and try something else.

Sorry, no photos tonight. Maybe tomorrow after the glue dries.
 
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#27
I wasn't happy with the CA glue at all. When I went to sand it even after curing, it started peeling off like skin after sunburn. I'm going to pick up some marine epoxy this weekend and try that on my test fretboard, assuming I can fully remove the glue and start fresh.

But, I did manage to Dremel out the fretboard dots to a satisfactory conclusion:

dedotted_complete.jpg


The rosewood and epoxy kit I ordered from Stew-Mac arrived the other day, and the veneers from LMII are due today. This weekend I can start sanding and cleaning the fretboard for the forthcoming work.
 
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#29
michaelwayneharwood said:
What is the difference between marine epoxy and the Stewmac 20 minute epoxy for this type of application?
Click to expand...
I'd like to know, too. I'm getting the marine epoxy because it's faster and cheaper to test with that than order the faster Stewmac epoxy (I got the long cure version for filling in inlays and fretslots). Perhaps I'll test with the slower Stewmac epoxy, since I have it here already.

The veneers arrived a little bit ago and I'm pleased with them. Excuse the Instagram shot:
 
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#30
eightyearsapril said:
What do folks use to apply CA glue to a fretless fretboard? I'm using a sponge brush on my test neck and the first coat looked good, but I just put the second one down (after letting the first cure for 24 hours) and I saw little pebbles forming on the top. I'm going to let it dry and cure again for 24 hours, but I'm afraid I need to strip it back and try something else.

Sorry, no photos tonight. Maybe tomorrow after the glue dries.
Click to expand...
I read that it's best to use the back of wet/dry sandpaper to rub it on
 
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#33
wraub said:
If I may...

How are you planning to fill the fret slots?
Click to expand...
The veneers in my photo, above, that arrived today. I posted a mock-up last weekend of how I plan to use them.

image.jpg

That's a test of the blue veneer in the 24th fret slot. I'll either use glue or epoxy to attach it to the fretboard.

I finally made my visit to Home Depot tonight and bought marine epoxy, which I'll test this weekend.
 
#34
I'm quire interested in seeing how the marine epoxy goes, I have been thinking of coating my rosewood fingerboard, and I've been going back and forth between CA glue and epoxy. I need to get a radiusing block first.
Good luck, looking forward to more updates.
 
#38
I just bought another test neck, this time a bass neck, from Guitar Fetish. I practically ruined my first test guitar neck, and I still need to test applying the veneers to the fretslots and sealing the fretboard. It was $35, shipped, for the neck, and since this one is a bass neck, I could possibly use it down the line.
 
#39
I was going to tell you....The Loctite marine epoxy that Home Depot sells is white.

It's good for inlaying logos and such. Not so good for protecting fingerboards...unless you want a white fingerboard. Could be cool.
 
#40
HaMMerHeD said:
I was going to tell you....The Loctite marine epoxy that Home Depot sells is white.

It's good for inlaying logos and such. Not so good for protecting fingerboards...unless you want a white fingerboard. Could be cool.
Click to expand...
Ha, thanks. A white fretless fretboard would be cool, just not on this bass.

With the new test neck ordered, I'm putting the neck project(s) aside for a few days. I tried figuring out the bridge placement today, and didn't have much luck. I know what I'm supposed to do, but perfectly centering the bridge was difficult.

Does anyone have any tips on how to do this? I know the point on the bridge where the string impacts is to be 34" from the nut, 17" from the 12th fret, and 8.5" from the 24th fret.
 

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