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Small drone with camera hovering outside my window today.

"Stuff" as in "stuff it, it's useless". Last time I used it was the last time, not fun, the first couple of shots worked, then it was all hairspray and no boom. I never did get to applying engine start (ether?) but it's definitely flammable!
Then your seals aren't up to quality (any leaks equals loss of compression), your design is off, (improper fuel load in relation to combustion chamber size, improper projectile resistance/weight/mass In relation to firing force, or your assistant chickened out and didn't properly tighten the rear plug), or you simply didn't use enough hairspray.

Could be other construction/design problems....absolutely airtight joints/seals is an absolute must.

Proper sealing/loading of projectile is a must.

We've fired the same gun dozens of times, left to people drunker than us (a feat in and of itself), fired it several times again the next morning, and used it with great success the weekend after that with no maintenance.


It's not just a bunch of drunk rednecks playing with sewer pipes. There is a right way to do it, that has to do with explosion pressures, ballistics, etc.

I'll make you one that can kill your car.
 
May've fired too quickly. Liquid explosives like that...it's the vapors that are highly explosive...in liquid form, they are not that great. Same reason you can carry a tank full of liquid gasoline in your car safely, but when you vaporize it and mix it with air, tiny little bits make your engine go zoom, zoom.

Try waiting a bit between loading and firing.
 
Rednex was in reference to those over here who lack the knowledge to build a proper device.

I'm sorry, I don't know what "acting the goat" is. When people say "got your goat" here, it means like they've cornered you up conversationally and you don't have anything to say/can't respond to your obviously superior intellect.


You should know, this is all just ribbing downunder, you're one of my favorites.
 
Not sure if that'll actually be enough to damage the sensor on the go pro.

However, people should really (really) avoid those cheap laser pointers. They are often listed as being 1 mW or 5 mW, but in reality they can produce much more power. Green (532 nm) pointers always look really bright because they are near the wavelength of peak sensitivity in our eyes so it's hard to know how powerful it really is.

The cheap pointers also tend to leak a lot of NIR light. There is generally a fairly powerful 808 nm laser diode, which pumps a gain material to generate 1064 nm light, which is then frequency doubled to 532 nm. With cheap lasers there is little to no filtering to remove residual 808 nm and 1064 nm light which - while we can't see it - can still damage our eyes.

I confiscated one from a student during a practical class, then took the student to my lab so we could check the pointer using a power meter, it registered about 80 mW (even though it was advertised as <1 mW).
 
Not sure if that'll actually be enough to damage the sensor on the go pro.

However, people should really (really) avoid those cheap laser pointers. They are often listed as being 1 mW or 5 mW, but in reality they can produce much more power. Green (532 nm) pointers always look really bright because they are near the wavelength of peak sensitivity in our eyes so it's hard to know how powerful it really is.

The cheap pointers also tend to leak a lot of NIR light. There is generally a fairly powerful 808 nm laser diode, which pumps a gain material to generate 1064 nm light, which is then frequency doubled to 532 nm. With cheap lasers there is little to no filtering to remove residual 808 nm and 1064 nm light which - while we can't see it - can still damage our eyes.

I confiscated one from a student during a practical class, then took the student to my lab so we could check the pointer using a power meter, it registered about 80 mW (even though it was advertised as <1 mW).
ok
 

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